Was there a reason for using 734 injectors? Because it was sequential?
Another 205 8v thread
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Was there a reason for using 734 injectors? Because it was sequential?
It's over 30 years since I saw these engines on dyno, it may have been the 405 XU9J4 fuel rail we fitted, probably for the 3bar reg and different fuel hose fittings. We solved the starvation by fitting the 405 XU9J4 pulsation dampener on the high pressure pipe into the fuel rail.
I just looked at parts book and XU10 Mi16 reduced pulsations by placing pressure regulator in middle of fuel rail.
Whether you stick with 2.5 bar or go to 3 bar I suggest you also fit the dampener.
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Done about 30 mins of driving so far. I’ve touched up some bits here and there but when I turn O2 correction it averages maybe +-7% out. I’m going to stop playing with it until the dyno. As I said, it already drives great. I do miss the GTI gear ratios though.
Highest duty cycle so far is about 72%, WOT up a hill at 5100rpm (~97% VE). Engine only has 700kms on it, so I’m not ringing it out just yet, especially on a base tune.
When I got home there was oil leaking behind the head, enough to coat the driveshafts and wishbones. I still can’t pin this down. I’m hopeful it’s just the cam cover. I did reuse the head oil gallery filter, but I assume this is the inlet so it shouldn’t be stopping the head from draining.
The cam cover screws are wet, as is the cover seal. The screws had copper washers so maybe some fresh fibre ones will seal better those with the light torque.
Highest duty cycle so far is about 72%, WOT up a hill at 5100rpm (~97% VE). Engine only has 700kms on it, so I’m not ringing it out just yet, especially on a base tune.
When I got home there was oil leaking behind the head, enough to coat the driveshafts and wishbones. I still can’t pin this down. I’m hopeful it’s just the cam cover. I did reuse the head oil gallery filter, but I assume this is the inlet so it shouldn’t be stopping the head from draining.
The cam cover screws are wet, as is the cover seal. The screws had copper washers so maybe some fresh fibre ones will seal better those with the light torque.
Read some stuff on the drivers forum and had a look at my Haynes.
I didn’t even consider the oil refiller / catch can when I did the rebuild. Here is what I pulled out. The top mesh is still nicely held together and shiny.
The breather vacuum takeoff on the TB was also sealed shut with crud. That’s now pulling a vacuum.
Still getting oil oozing out of the bolt holes even after fixing the refilled canister.
Oil pressure is high with the 6bar spring. So I can’t rule out if the head is just filling up with oil quicker than it can drain.
No more driving until I sort this out.
I didn’t even consider the oil refiller / catch can when I did the rebuild. Here is what I pulled out. The top mesh is still nicely held together and shiny.
The breather vacuum takeoff on the TB was also sealed shut with crud. That’s now pulling a vacuum.
Still getting oil oozing out of the bolt holes even after fixing the refilled canister.
Oil pressure is high with the 6bar spring. So I can’t rule out if the head is just filling up with oil quicker than it can drain.
No more driving until I sort this out.
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i setup my oil breather hoses on my last 205 similar to the peugeot Grp A build manual shows. I sort off cheated and used my dipstick tube as the one in diagram thats marked 3 (19031-02) just means when you need to check oil you have to yoink the hose off and put dipstick in. Also instead of running a degassing tank I just fitted a small filter straight off the filler and had no issues. They actual make a blanking plug for the filler too. Part #1 in diagram
