Aftermarket ECU setup questions (Haltech + 205gti)

They're take of points for brake vacuum, for what they're worth. The other smaller vacuum points are in the TB's themselves.

This all brings up an interesting discussion. I have mine setup with the fuel mapped via TPS position and the ignition mapped via manifold vacuum. That works well for me, mainly because I don't worry about cruise conditions, where accurate engine load is needed for ignition timing. You could just set yours up with the ignition mapped via TPS as well. If you have the table load points setup correctly, this works perfectly well. Let me know if you need guidance.
 
Thanks Peter.

I'll keep that in mind, but I reckon I'll stick to my plan and use the MAP sensor and crank sensor.
 
Photo of my Jenveys. 4 to 1 EFI Hardware vacuum combiner. I took vacuum for the brakes off two inlet tracts. 45 mm. I would want $1000 for the set including Peugeot XU 16valve manifold and Pipercross foam filter set up. Took the photo in a hurry can send without the other items, from different angles and with the hoses properly removed plus in higher def to an email address.

PM sent Graham
 
Thanks Peter.

I'll keep that in mind, but I reckon I'll stick to my plan and use the MAP sensor and crank sensor.
I am very late to the conversation, but if you use a biggish overlap cam, manifold vacuum will be erratic and low at idle and low revs, making tuning difficult. I also use TPS position and rpm to set up the tuning of both the fuel and ignition on engines with larger cams, and find it fine.

Regarding the cam position DjB8V, as you are not using your distributor this could have a pickup and single pin applied. I admit this did cause some problem on my old BMW single overhead cam engine with a very large cam and valve springs. As the revs rose the TDC would get further away from the Synch position as the cam was twisting at high rpm and the distributor was at the far end of the cam. I ended up mounting a GT101 on the timing cover and making a single tooth arrangement to bolt on the drive end of the cam. Fault was sorted.

On a Motec at least, the cam position is taken as soon as the engine turns over, and at this point the plug on the cam sensor can be disconnected, with no synch problems, but you need to reconnect the sensor to start the car again.
 
Luckily you don’t need a cam sensor to run wasted spark or dizzy.
 
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