That's the best way in normal temperatures.
A/C Problem
- Thread starter The Fixer
- Start date
It should work every bit as well as R134a. I'd suggest you are trying to "fix" issues with the A/C installation by using hydrocarbon refrigerant. If the system will not work properly on R134a.... I'm betting it won't work properly on HR12 either.
There is one scenario it may work out better for you. Any old air con system still running its R12 TX valve will possibly work better with hychill -30 as its properties are closer to what the system requires over R134a. I still have the old R12 fittings and TX valves on my CX. It works very well (for a CX A/C system). Though it will need topping up annually. I'm not overly concerned. It's a very old A/C system that was probably not very "leak free" when new.
The car that I tried HyChill on was missing the compressor when bought, and had a leaky condensor, so both were replaced with new parts, as was the TX valve and receiver-dryer. I knew from having such a car before (old Statesman) that they also had air flow issues, seperate issue, but compounded lack of a/c perfromance in a black car in hot summer. I was talked into using HyChill by an a/c 'expert' as the best for such a car. The system was refilled three times in about 6-8 months, so I presumed it was still leaking somewhere. I think this guy was actually hopeless; he probably didn't add enough HyChill (even though I think you less of this refrigerant than R134a, but that system was listed as using something huge like 1200g of R134a or R12). He even tried telling me he should fill R134 with HyChill before I realised he was a waste of time. The high pressure hose also started to weep; even the guy who sold HyChill in Aus admitted this can become a problem or weak point with using HyChill in an old system. So I just got fed up with the constant loss of a/c performance that I went to R134a and whether blind luck or another auto elec I went to who did something right, that system was cold for 2 years before I sold the car.
My 605 had HyChill in it when I bought it, only in there for maybe 6 months according to the HyChill sticker in the engine bay. It was going into winter and lockdown so I didn't notice that it wasn't blowing cold until recently. Took it to an a/c bloke who,like a few I have spoken to, hates HyChill and spent ages evacuating the system and refilling with R134. Only a couple months so far, but still running cold.
So two leaky systems that sound like they may have been massively overcharged. You need to use the hychill charge weights as you use nowhere near the weight of R134a.
You problem isn't the refrigerant used, its the systems by the sounds of that. With hychill he should have used about 30% of the charge weight of R134a. I'm surprised he didn't destory the compressor if he added R134a charge weight (as a fluid doesn't compress)
Its the clueless A/C guy you used, not the refrigerant. I have nothing against R134a other than I never intend to get a license just to buy the stuff (in the USA they can just buy it at there local "supercheap" type store).
I rebuilt my hoses with new flexible hoses + seals and charged with Hychill, works a treat so don't be put off. Its flammable absolutely but I would prefer this to burning R134 which is toxic..
Be practical and realise old hoses will not handle much. to stir the pot, its not explosive, its flammable. explosive is another matter, try a spark whilst working in a flour mill!
Be practical and realise old hoses will not handle much. to stir the pot, its not explosive, its flammable. explosive is another matter, try a spark whilst working in a flour mill!
Took the car to A/C Auto they put in the hoist and told me that the seal(s) where Kaput, cheaper to buy a new compresser (he said).There is a high/low pressure switch built into most receiver driers. If the system pressure is to and high or to low .... the clutch will never engage. In my leaky old cars, I just throw another $15bucks of bang gas into them. Gets you through summer. Its a pretty small leak for them to leak down over 12months or so
You are all just guessing until he throws some gauges on it and sees what is going on. Modern cars suck as there evaporators are enormous jobs to get to, so no-one will want to look at it. Rather they just throw more gas in and say "we tried, but didn't find a leak". I don't blame them. I HATE pulling apart modern cars dashboards where everythig is brittle plastic and assembled by robots outside the car.
I just throw nitrogen in mine here... Throw in 150'ish psi then run around all the connections with soapy water. When I fixed up the shitbox range rover last week, I found two leaking Orings. One on the TX valve and one on the high side fitting under the bonnet.
Have just now ordered new compessor from Cool Auto, Campbelltown.
Cheers
Thanks to all of you who contributed.