DS engine bay brown colour code

forumnoreason

forumnoreason

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I have started dismantling my 74 DSpecial as things need addressing, all suspension boots are capital K nackered, and there's approximately trente huit ans merde coating everything plus much surface rust. Plus, more to be discovered. Anyhow as I prefer to be pedantic about things I can get my head around like paint, does anyone have a code for the brown used for the air intakes and mud shields etc?

I have been googling to no avail but came up with the green for LHM AC 502.

I also happily discovered the original paint disc that fell off into oblivion 13 years ago when I purchased the car, it was cemented in huiley merde under the mudshield, how it slipped in there is a bloomin mystere...

I am now toying with the idea of getting her back to her original AC 088 LE ( LE? ) boring blanc meije.

Good for dings and car temp but.

the attachment is reference for brown, and is essentially a version of dreams I have of finished engine bay on my voiture.:)

Steven
 

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I don't think a code exists, but I'd be happily proven wrong. It's certainly not Mission Brown and it should also be a satin finish rather than a gloss. It was probably applied by dipping for most parts. I'd try to get it matched by a local place and have them add a flatting agent to knock off the gloss.
 
Thanks David, I was thinking a trip down to auto shop and pointing at a colour in book to make up some spray cans. More importantly the chassis will need a new black coat apart from POR 15 which I won't use for this purpose what would be the ideal coating to scare off rust? Also thinking of spraying inside frame, a bloke here I know who is a marine boiler maker/ welder told me the other day of something called lanolene or something which boaties use, cross between lanolin and fish oil.
 
Last year I went through the colour books at a local place and ended up finding a Jaguar deep brown, but I also needed to add a fair amount of black to get it about right. I could have used that, but it also needed the flatting agent. Getting a pro to match a sample would be easier. That was acrylic, but I ended up not using it as there is a place in Sydney with a formulation for it, although I can't recall the name. They put it in cans, but I think they'd be reluctant to post it.

I would think the coating you use will depend on the current condition. If you look at Shane's ID thread, you'd see he used a POR product called Hardnose. There are similar products from other manufacturers. GMH Black is readily available and inexpensive, but it's a nitro-cellulose finish and will age quickly if it's used on external parts. Architectural coatings (tin and spray cans) you can buy at hardware stores look quite good and are easy to use, but I would probably not use them for this purpose again. I'd be inclined to use either an acrylic or a two-pack (but iso-free) gloss black, but you need to treat the rust properly to use them. That is one of the attractions of paints like POR and Rust Bullet (name??) - the claimed ease of coating over the rust and having it become part of the coating. I'm now a bit skeptical of that approach and I'd be inclined to spend the time/money to remove the rust properly. If you go for a blasting process, research the various processes before leaping in.

You will probably have to live with some rust inside box sections/seams, so products like Lanolene would help. However, I don't think it's as waxy as some of the rust preventatives intended for automotive use. Try a can and see what you think, but compare it with something like Tectyl 506 Rust Inhibitor spray (try Auto One??), which is a very good value product. The people who sell POR also sell some quite good, but rather costly, rust preventative products. The Dynax spray is a good product as far as I can tell and you'll need 2 cans to do most of the vulnerable internal areas of a D chassis. The long tube that comes with it could be longer and that's where you could start looking at buying an inhibitor oil and specific applicators with longer tubes.
 
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The brown is best matched by a decent paint shop, they can do it.
LHM green, as I've written a few times now, whilst it exists as a code, there have been at least four different shades used by the factory without a change in code. Pick a green part you like the look of and do the same thing. Remember though, the green is generally a semi gloss.

Blanc Meije may seem boring, but Ivoire Borely surely fills the bill there! I've become used to AC084 (Ivoire Borely) and see it as an immensely practical colour if not the most exciting.

Hope this helps.
 
Fluid film seemed to be the one everyone was talking about on the DS lists a few years back (one of them was even using it to treat his wooden decking :roflmao: ).

I'm pretty sure it's lanolin based. It's likely any lanolin based product out here will be just as effective:

http://www.fluid-film.com/

POR15 would likely be fine IMO for the chassis. I *wouldn't* use there hardnose product, I only tried that as it is impervious to brake fluid (and paint stripper, and petrol etc....). I don't like how it applied though, and it's very shiny. Remeber though, POR15 will go really ugly wherever the sun hits it. apparently POR will delaminate in big sheets if the surface isn't prep'd properly. I've never experienced this though. It's stuck like sh!t to a shovel anywhere I've used it. And is incredibly hardy!

No doubt the best possible coating is clean, de-rusted (sandblasted ?) steal coated with an epoxy primer followed by a urethane black (with a flattener added to reduce the gloss :confused: ).

seeya,
Shane L.
 
The website certainly 'paints' it as a wonder product!
I had some of the boot done with POR 15 and whilst it has served a purpose it's a pretty full on solution, the rust mightn't have been as bad in the first place if the boot and seal weren't so prone to holding moisture, it has been suggested to me to drill 3 holes along the box sections and pour in a healthy amount of lanolin based product and let it slosh around for awhile then drain it off, I'm thinking you would want to neutralise any hidden corrosion first though, which would possibly suggest spraying anti rust product then washing out and drying.
 
ah that's Malcolm's site, from Clementines, I hung out with him at R4 50th in Thenay last year, his 67 R4 has a Gordini motor and it ripped along at an admirable pace. Torque city. Did I meet you there Bernard? I was having difficulty with people's names as people were introducing themselves as their forum names!

Cheers

Steven
 
Clementines?

Hi Steven,

I am sorry, but I don't think that we've met. I just happened to come across his website, which I think is very good. But this is a small world and you'll never know!

Whilst we're still figuring out that shade of brown, have a look at this one for good measure:
http://www.spraydosen-shop.de/Citroen_1

Zillions of Citroen colours, incl that elusive gris sable for Brendons' Safari!

Cheers,

Bernard
 
On the topic of colour, what are peoples' opinions on original factory colour vs repainting in a different (still factory) colour?

My DS is completely original but unfortunately the original colour just isn't that nice. It's blanc carrare which I find insipid. I would prefer to paint it gris palladium or bleu d'orient which were also available on the '65's.

Is this sacrilege for such an original car?
 
DeSnoek said:
On the topic of colour, what are peoples' opinions on original factory colour vs repainting in a different (still factory) colour?

My DS is completely original but unfortunately the original colour just isn't that nice. It's blanc carrare which I find insipid. I would prefer to paint it gris palladium or bleu d'orient which were also available on the '65's.

Is this sacrilege for such an original car?
Click to expand...

The old adage is, of course, that it is your car and you can do what you want to it. One of the great things about the D series is that it is relatively easy to do a complete colour change. It's not unknown for owners to have another set of panels in a different colour. I dont think that it is sacrilege to change colour, unless it was a very early car and the change was to a non-period colour.
I have a '66 DS21, which if I ever get around to it will be finished in Bleu d'Orient with a Gris Argent roof - a stunning combination.
roger
 
I think you have to be a little careful about using colours that are not suitable to the period, unless it's some kind of custom project. The same is true of materials and paint types. By that I mean that if you paint an early car in a common colour used only on later series it tends to look a bit odd. Paint it something carefully chosen, but completely different and it is more likely to look stunning than odd. As an example, a S2 Jaguar XJ6 painted in a colour unique to the slightly later S3 range can look either very good or very odd, especially if it's got a few later adornments fitted. Some colours work and others just don't. The resale value can be affected, so if that's a concern choose a colour from the range for the build year. Otherwise, convince yourself that what you have is a stunning 'period' colour!
 
Oh I was definitely going to choose a factory colour that is period correct. It will be one of the colours that was used in 1965 and in combination with the red fabric which I intend to keep.

I like the idea of having a second set of panels so I can change the colour. I could use the same car for weddings and funerals! :)
 
DeSnoek said:
BTW, this is an interesting website I use for finding out what the original colours and colour codes were through the years.

http://www.nuancierds.fr/entreeuk.htm
Click to expand...

My kids watched me looking through a heap of colours/cars on that site, both of them said the second they saw the oriental blue "THAT ONE .... PAINT IT THAT COLOUR !!!! But we want it to sparkle like that one" ...:roflmao::roflmao:

Rogers right, it looks even better with the silver roof. this is the piccie my kids loved:

bleu%20d'orient%204.jpg


this dark red to me looks great on the 2nd nose cars too. For some strange reason, it looks wrong to me on the 3rd nose cars though :confused:

http://www.nuancierds.fr/AC 421 Bordeaux.htm

My wife thinks I should paint the old ID19 a yellow or something bright (No doubt she's thinking of the colour of Rogers DS19 ). Maybe she just hopes it'll run and drive as well as Rogers car does :roflmao:

Who cares about "original" .... Did you see some of the UGLY colours these cars were sold with. How about salmon pink/brown :eek:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
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