'93 205 Si budget restomod

RIP AUSSIEFROGS :(
nevertheless, work continues. i've replaced all the fuel lines to the injector
fuel lines.JPG


done the oil change, curse the tiny hands of whoever decided to put the oil filter here
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you vs the guy she tells you not to worry about
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was all gung ho and ready to drain the gearbox, and try to replace the broken cv boot with one i harvested from the box of mystery cv shafts in the backyard
Capture.JPG


very well lubricated shafts these are ;)
boots.JPG

hopefully one of these will fit, but my 8mm square drive bit is just a lil too girthy to fit in the drain plug hole
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hopefully i can find the bit of 8mm square bar i have lying around here somewhere, and get this gearbox freshened up a lil.

but on to the real headache>
snapping that brake bleeder valve off in the caliper has cause such a headache, from literally none of the 6-7 parts stores i've gone to stocking or even being able to order in spare bleeder valves, to the struggle of getting the old bleeder out of the bolt hole. spent $17 on an extractor bit that snapped off in the hole literally as soon as it grabbed.
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the brakes aren't in the best of condition anyway, so i've decided simply replacing or upgrading them is likely the best option, so I ask ye gurus of aussiefrogs, how hard is it to fit 306 or 206 brakes? has anyone done it before, are there perhaps any build threads or how to's? any and all advice would be much appreciated.



also got to help smash a couch to take it to the tip cause it wouldn't fit in anyones car otherwise, that was fun.
couchmeat.JPG
 
gas torch on the caliper and expand to undo the broken bit.
 
Nah. Use freeze and release from Loctite. It does work. I took snapped head bolts out with it. The exhaust side always turns bolts brittle because of the repeated brutal heating - cooling cycles. This means they snap and then they're hard to drill, crumble to bits and snap again and again whatever you do. Freeze and release worked after I've done exactly like you.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qe0AAOSwvdBfCEz4/s-l500.jpg

Those extractors never work, by the way. I've never heard anyone say they did.

Be patient. Spray some, leave alone to penetrate (it is a penetrating fluid as well, like WD40 but better) and then again and again and eventually the miscreant will come out with little effort. Freezing the bastard breaks the rust bond, and the liquid penetrates a little bit, then freeze again and so on. Patience.

Another option is to use Chemistry if you remember your high school text. Nitric acid will dissolve steel like nothing but won't touch Aluminium. Trick is to get the acid. The higher the concentration the better (but the more dangerous to you).

Changing to 206 or 306 bits is easy, pretty much bolt on, just need to get the right parts. I bought mine from someone here who had the whole lot ready to go so can't advise any further (what car/year/model) but I understand mine are bits form a run of the mill 306 whatever that is.

At least you're prepared for the future. Keep a can of Freeze and release handy and forget trying to drill, extractors and the rest of it.
 
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Nah. Use freeze and release from Loctite. It does work. I took snapped head bolts out with it. The exhaust side always turns bolts brittle because of the repeated brutal heating - cooling cycles. This means they snap and then they're hard to drill, crumble to bits and snap again and again whatever you do. Freeze and release worked after I've done exactly like you.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qe0AAOSwvdBfCEz4/s-l500.jpg

Those extractors never work, by the way. I've never heard anyone say they did.

Be patient. Spray some, leave alone to penetrate (it is a penetrating fluid as well, like WD40 but better) and then again and again and eventually the miscreant will come out with little effort. Freezing the bastard breaks the rust bond, and the liquid penetrates a little bit, then freeze again and so on. Patience.

Another option is to use Chemistry if you remember your high school text. Nitric acid will dissolve steel like nothing but won't touch Aluminium. Trick is to get the acid. The higher the concentration the better (but the more dangerous to you).

Changing to 206 or 306 bits is easy, pretty much bolt on, just need to get the right parts. I bought mine from someone here who had the whole lot ready to go so can't advise any further (what car/year/model) but I understand mine are bits form a run of the mill 306 whatever that is.

At least you're prepared for the future. Keep a can of Freeze and release handy and forget trying to drill, extractors and the rest of it.
never would have thought to use nitric acid lol. not sure if im keen to use it outside of a fume hood, I've seen some nasty acid burns in my time. i'll probably just switch to 206/306 stuff, since the pads & rotors are not in the best shape anyway, and I can't find anyone that'll sell me a bleeder screw.
 
I can look through my stash of spares, I might have one you can have for free, but like you said, not sure it's worth saving those callipers. I might actually have the callipers themselves because I have a spare parts car for my GTI and it is unfortunately a Si. Let me know if you're interested and you can have them for postage price or bleeders (if I have them) for free.

That said, I am sure they're nothing special (the bleeders). Have a look at random cars you find around your house, I am sure you'll find something that fits. When I do things like that I first look at Japanese cars. They have pretty standard hardware but much better quality and there's got to be a Corolla within spitting distance anywhere anytime.
 
I'll see what I can scrape up at the wrecking yards this week, maybe I can nick a bleeder screw off my roommate's integra?
 
In case you need a P/N, here's a couple of pics of a 247mm Bosch 206 caliper (P/N 359804B) hanging off a 205 (together with - I'm reliably informed - a strut off a low km Citroen Xsara):

 
S-S-S-Scope creep!

got 206 brakes, they fit on the struts perfect, just need some shorter bolts. boy do they not fit under the wheels though
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really wish i still had the wheels off my 405 that popped down in melbourne, but alas i'll have to find something else.
 
I always replace the 13 inch wheels as a matter of course, always getting rid of them. They will fit trailers if that is any help in finding a market.
 
I have a set of pepperpots off my GTI if that helps (ask around fi they fit over the 206 callipers 'cos I am not sure).
the resource natumbri linked above says that french pepperpots don't fit over, but italian ones do? no idea what that means particularly. I've seen some 306 mags that look nice to me, does anyone know if a 14 will fit over 206 brakes? or is it a 15 minimum. who's to know, time to hit the books and get some research done
 
S-S-S-Scope creep!

got 206 brakes, they fit on the struts perfect, just need some shorter bolts. boy do they not fit under the wheels thoughView attachment 133341

really wish i still had the wheels off my 405 that popped down in melbourne, but alas i'll have to find something else.
1.6 4 door or GTi?
 
the resource natumbri linked above says that french pepperpots don't fit over, but italian ones do? no idea what that means particularly. I've seen some 306 mags that look nice to me, does anyone know if a 14 will fit over 206 brakes? or is it a 15 minimum. who's to know, time to hit the books and get some research done
I think it has to do mainly with how deep the dish is on the inside (slightly different castings I suppose - never seen one close up other than mine). The circumference clears (just) but the depth is a problem. I think you need some 4mm or so clearance, which some people resolve with spacers but I think I have also heard people say they just ground the callipers a bit where they touch.
 
1.6 4 door or GTi?
wrecker yard wouldn't tell me, just "206 calipers"
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they're bosch, seem to fit good other than wheel clearance


I think it has to do mainly with how deep the dish is on the inside (slightly different castings I suppose - never seen one close up other than mine). The circumference clears (just) but the depth is a problem. I think you need some 4mm or so clearance, which some people resolve with spacers but I think I have also heard people say they just ground the callipers a bit where they touch.
i always thought spacers were illegal in australia? if i could keep using these wheels i'd like to, i like the styling. left the angle grinder at dad's, but we'll see how it all works out. It reeks of acetone in the garage, time for gardening.
 
Not sure if this is correct, but does the '22' on the caliper give the game away?
Ø247mm = 20.4mm
Ø266mm = 22mm
 
wrecker yard wouldn't tell me, just "206 calipers" View attachment 133347
they're bosch, seem to fit good other than wheel clearance



i always thought spacers were illegal in australia? if i could keep using these wheels i'd like to, i like the styling. left the angle grinder at dad's, but we'll see how it all works out. It reeks of acetone in the garage, time for gardening.

I think it depends on state but both WA and SA don't like them. Don't know about others.

Grinding callipers is not illegal as far as I know. When I upgraded mine (on a series 1 GTI) I had to use the Si hubs and I seem to remember there was only very little contact so I don't think there would be a lot to grind off. You could of course take the callipers to a shop and have them machined nicely. It's not a hard job and shouldn't be expensive. I didn't have my milling machine back then, but now that is what I would do.

On the other hand, there are much more tyre options with 15" rims so that might be a consideration too. See Peter's (4cvg) threads.
 
Oh how I long to return to this project. Went on what was meant to be a 2 week vacation to melbourne, to visit my brother, and I've been stuck here two months now. Oh well, at least there are some 505's and DS's parked on the streets nearby for me to ogle until I can return and rip around in the pug nug.
 
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