GreenBlood’s D(very)Special Rejuvenation 2009>

GreenBlood

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Inspired by UFO's respray thread UFO's D Special - UFO - respray and retrim repost

I thought as this project seems to have gone a little epic I would record the progress of D(very)Special’s rejuvenation – this is by no means a restoration more identifying 35 years of deterioration and hopefully giving her a chance at another 35 years.

I think it was back in July this year with a failed starter motor D(v)S gave me a hint that it was time for some TLC. With some great assistance from Aussiefrogs I fitted a new Valeo starter, and of course whilst in the bowels a reconditioned engine mount. I guess it all started there, I couldn’t replace parts without cleaning, and where required painting.

With the front guard off it was opportune to fix rust under the headlights, but on inspection of the front valance (hidden by the guard) I could see this was going to be more than a quick patch-up.

I decided to pull the front end off and get to cleaning fixing painting. The front valance and number plate holder were looking quite sad. One of the outriggers was rusted through, the other would not have been far behind without fairly immediate attention. I actually had a rusted hole in the front air scoop where the tube attaches running air up to the interior vents.

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I washed the chassis down with a kerosene gun and hosed off with water. I then used POR Marine Clean and Metal Ready before painting with POR.

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I was quite surprised to see surface rust forming once the years of accumulated oil and grease had been removed.

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I pulled the battery tray out and gave it the same treatment using silver POR for the top cradle. (yes I have a suspension boot and bump stops on my list of things to do.

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Pic of the valance and number plate holder, some rust at the front of the valance and some serious rust on the number plate holder.

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The chassis painted and the drip tray and brake scoops cleaned ready to re-fit

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Front valance repaired and painted, the car has been painted using acrylic lacquer which despite comments to the contrary has stood up very well after more than 10 years. I’m painting at home so acrylic lacquer it is.

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Valance and number plate holder re-fitted.

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I pulled the bumper apart and polished using a kit from Bunnings, a couple of grades of abrasive and matching disks that were fitted onto a drill – slow and tedious but the results were very rewarding, more work to do to finish but definitely getting a result. The air dam/scoops were repaired and painted.

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This front guard has been completely disassembled, the light buckets painted, rust repaired and spot painted, very happy with the colour match which was slightly different to the AC code. New headlight surrounds and inner seals etc.

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I still have to do the same with the offside guard, and then slowly work back, bottom of all doors need attention as do the tops where the weather strip is.

That’s it for the moment, four months of weekends invested so far…

Cheers
Chris

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dino said:
6th Dec 2009, 09:22 PM

good work....I like the colour, reminds me of my dads old fiat...
... car looks very solid from this end.... Work like this 'usually reveals' more than one wants to find...
Good luck with it...
dino
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6th Dec 2009, 10:04 PM
GreenBlood

Thanks dino,
I think this work will be on-going, the positives of this car far outway the negatives, nothing that can't be fixed, nothing structural or major. I'll do the work that is within my scope (having a ball honing my skills).

Cheers
Chris
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rmac said:
7th Dec 2009, 01:42 AM


What a great job. Well done and love the pics! They are a good reference.
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DoubleChevron said:
7th Dec 2009, 08:56 AM

The only change I'd make ... Is chuck all of SWMBO's junk out of the shed, and move the car into the shed, so your not in the rain and sun while working

I'm sick to death of having nowhere decent to work on a car myself

Did you ever get the front suspension boot done ?? Roger Parker had a brake fluid one in stock. It wasn't cheap at $80, but it's far better than "Not Available".

seeya,
Shane L.
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Boyracer said:
7th Dec 2009, 12:54 PM


I'm loving all these resto threads. We will have done our duty. The next generation will have plenty of nice Deesse to choose from.

Cheers,
Michael

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dogboy said:
10th Dec 2009, 07:08 AM

Nice job Chris... it's inspiring me onwards with my 2CV and DS
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eMi16 said:
11th Dec 2009, 03:45 PM

Nice work Chris, will look spectacular at the next French Car day no doubt! What sort of spray outfit are you using? The paint on the top of the Mi is looking rather sad these days and thinking of doing it myself. Did once re-spray a beetle in acrylic in another lifetime.

Cheers
Ralph
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11th Dec 2009, 04:08 PM
GreenBlood

Quote:Originally Posted by eMi16
Nice work Chris, will look spectacular at the next French Car day no doubt! What sort of spray outfit are you using? The paint on the top of the Mi is looking rather sad these days and thinking of doing it myself. Did once re-spray a beetle in acrylic in another lifetime.

Cheers
Ralph


Hi Ralph,
I often think of you when driving the D, you just looked so at home behind the wheel in this pic.

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I'm almost ashamed to admit that my spray equipment at home is only just up to the job, I wouldn't paint a panel bigger than the valance, poor compressor only just kept up. Using acrylic lacquer is quite forgiving, you can spend time and block back and polish to the desired finish. The roof on your Mi should be painted with 2pack, being metallic it's base coat and clear, you would be well advised to do the prep and hire a booth for a few hours for your finish, you should be able to hire the spray gun, airflow mask and booth for a couple of hundred? I think there is a place in Morningside behind Toyota off Wynnum road.

Cheers
Chris
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DoubleChevron said:
11th Dec 2009, 04:17 PM


Quote:Originally Posted by eMi16
Nice work Chris, will look spectacular at the next French Car day no doubt! What sort of spray outfit are you using? The paint on the top of the Mi is looking rather sad these days and thinking of doing it myself. Did once re-spray a beetle in acrylic in another lifetime.

Cheers
Ralph


It's a bigger job than you think ... You see you will have to paint both rear quater panels too.... You can't really "blend" it in as such. Then there is the fact the bonnet and bootlids paint will probably look just like the roof in a very short time (unless it's been resprayed at some point )

DS's are the "ultimate" car to tinker on at home, as each and every panel can be unbolted and worked on individually. With the colour GB is painting his, he could basically respray the entire car one panel at a time with acrylic laquer, and the colour will very closely match on each panel.

seeya,
Shane L.
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Iron Oxide said:
12th Dec 2009, 01:58 PM

Great thread! Really inspiring me to get off my duff and get my bodywork done! I love the look of a D stripped down, what an awesome piece of engineering!
Dave
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12th Dec 2009, 06:21 PM
Light Bucket

Quote:Originally Posted by Iron Oxide
Great thread! Really inspiring me to get off my duff and get my bodywork done! I love the look of a D stripped down, what an awesome piece of engineering!
Dave


Thanks Dave, funny it was your thread on yankeefrogs that was a good part of my motivation - let's keep one another inspired.

Today has been spent tarting up the light bucket on the offside guard.

I'll go into some detail on the removal of the light bucket, I don't think it has been covered here on aussiefrogs. It can look a little daunting but in reality it is a very straight forward job, with the guard off you'll have the bucket removed in maybe 10 minutes.

Start by removing the clip and light damper rod, then the bolt shown in pic, this has a square nut behind which you should take care not to lose, could be hard to find a replacement. Remove plastic clip hiding behind light bar adjuster as shown in pic.

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Remove wiring harness.

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Turn guard over and remove two nuts shown here.

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Remove bucket - You can now release the glass, two rod tensioners and two nuts.

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Light bucket removed – not pretty is it? The foam dust seal appears to be unavailable as a Citroen part but I have sourced a good copy through Whitworths Marine in Brisbane - a self-adhesive foam with about the same profile. Most of the crap that ends up on the bottom of the bucket is in fact the dried out foam from this seal.

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To remove the lights is just 4 nuts on the spotlight and two press fit clips on the main light.

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The bucket has been washed down with warm soapy water, then sanded with 800grit, primed with plastic primer and top coated

I’m painting using pressure pack Anchor Bond Acrylic lacquer - a plastic primer and a top coat. A bit controversial but as my buckets had never been painted I used a good area to get a colour match, to my eye Gris Rose was too dark and had a pinky tinge. The closest I found in ready to spray acrylic was Moss Vale Sands.

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Cleaned up all the bits and pieces ready to re-install. Probably a better pic in terms of the final colour and finish, slightly satin.

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I need to do the final repairs on this guard, rust proof as best I can, paint and then re-fit the lights. Way too humid to paint in Brisbane at the moment.

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Boyracer said:
12th Dec 2009, 08:59 PM

Great stuff! I have a pair of spare front wings. I am inspired to pull the buckets out and clean them up with the idea of swapping them into one of the other cars.

The pictorial helped heaps. It was nice to see the lie of the land in there. God knows I had enough trouble last night changing a headlight bulb in the dark.

Cheers,
Michael

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DoubleChevron said:
12th Dec 2009, 10:11 PM
DoubleChevron

I must say, I like that colour a lot more than the "grey" (gris, wheel colour ?) they are usually painted. I think I'd paint them body colour and make them completely wrong if I had a DS good enough to be driven

seeya,
Shane L.
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UFO said:
12th Dec 2009, 11:21 PM
UFO

Remember to put some stone guard on the glass before you put it back in
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eMi16 said:
13th Dec 2009, 07:41 PM

Quote:Originally Posted by DoubleChevron
It's a bigger job than you think ... You see you will have to paint both rear quater panels too.... You can't really "blend" it in as such. Then there is the fact the bonnet and bootlids paint will probably look just like the roof in a very short time (unless it's been resprayed at some point )

DS's are the "ultimate" car to tinker on at home, as each and every panel can be unbolted and worked on individually. With the colour GB is painting his, he could basically respray the entire car one panel at a time with acrylic laquer, and the colour will very closely match on each panel.

seeya,
Shane L.



Yep you're right, the bonnet and boot aren't far behind. It's probably out of my league to make any sort of half decent job of it. Just one of those do i spend the money on it questions.

Ralph


eMi16 said:
13th Dec 2009, 07:45 PM

Quote:Originally Posted by GreenBlood
Hi Ralph,
I often think of you when driving the D, you just looked so at home behind the wheel in this pic.
I'm almost ashamed to admit that my spray equipment at home is only just upto the job, I wouldn't paint a panel bigger than the valance, poor compressor only just kept up. Using acrylic laquer is quite forgiving, you can spend time and block back and polish to the desired finish. The roof on your Mi should be painted with 2pack, being metalic it's base coat and clear, you would be well advised to do the prep and hire a booth for a few hours for your finish, you should be able to hire the spray gun, airflow mask and booth for a couple of hundred? I think there is a place in Morningside behind Toyota off Wynnum road.

Cheers
Chris


Ah! memories! I do like that pic so saved a copy to my pc, hope you don't mind. You're doing a great job. I always wanted to try to clean up the light buckets when we had our D, but it never got done of course, the car was always working too hard! Thanks for the paintshop info.

Ralph
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26th Sep 2010, 01:21 PM
GreenBlood
September 2010
Cripes, started this thread in December 2009...

Time, money, weather... but I'm still as enthusiastic as when I started

Finally put enough money aside to collect my HP pump from DS Motors, Lance and John have been fantastic (could have sold my reconditioned pump a dozen times since I left it with them).

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I did my first suspension boot and bump stop yesterday...

Bump stop first, used the method outlined by Craig (UFO) Tighten a hose clamp around the base of the bump stop - quite tight, you need to reduce the diameter by at least 5mm., then freeze for a couple of hours. Fitting is then a breeze, jack up wheel hub, fit bump stop in place and lower wheel hub - done

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The top bump stops on my car are still good for while yet, so I moved on to the suspension boot. All pretty straight forward. Remove cotter pin from bell crank, remove ligarex and slip old boot off. I removed the rod and greased the ball. Fitted bottom of boot with the rod out, also found it easier to remove the return line from the car and fit to boot then re-fit and clamp the boot top - first time I've used my Ligarex pliers whoohooo....

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Much more to do

Cheers
Chris
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jackafrica said:
26th Sep 2010, 08:23 PM
Congratulations on the steps forward Chris.

All good things take time. D lightful.
 
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February 2011

I'm back... :wink2:

I've not been idle but mostly fiddly stuff, saving for bits and pieces and again waiting for the weather to improve.

I bought replacement rear indicators mine were looking worse for wear after 35 years in the Queensland sun. So just looking to do a trial fit I found the caged nut(s) [both sides] that holds the indicator trumpet end was seized. Tried penetrating oil/ heat and ended up drilling them out. Also found that the clip that runs from the centre screw that holds the indicator lens in place was missing on both sides and my lenses were held in place with a bead of silicon... I have purchased new clips, cage nut assemblies and the boomerang rubber seals for top and bottom of the trumpets.

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This meant pulling the trumpets off both sides, C pillar covers, rear screen and revealing this :eek:

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I guess I'm pleased in a way, I knew I had rust in the C pillars but hadn't realised it was quite this bad. I cut patches for the inside and outside and with my very new welding skills have replaced rust with metal. I'll fiddle a bit more next weekend use some seam sealer and a coat of POR.

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I've yet to fix the left side, hopefully next weekend...

Cheers
Chris
 

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Have you pulled the roof off ??? My guess is it is leaking. What seems to happen is the roof leaks, these leaks are caught in the roof frame and run back down it (like a gutter), where the water will run down the 'C' pillars then rust out a hole through the 'C' pillars to allow the water to escape.

Sound 'C' pillars in a car, most likely means the roof doesn't leak!

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Have you pulled the roof off ??? My guess is it is leaking. What seems to happen is the roof leaks, these leaks are caught in the roof frame and run back down it (like a gutter), where the water will run down the 'C' pillars then rust out a hole through the 'C' pillars to allow the water to escape.

Sound 'C' pillars in a car, most likely means the roof doesn't leak!

seeya,
Shane L.

...I know, I know, I'm just scared to pull the roof off, it has to happen I know it leaks :eek:

Being a later car it's not the bolt on roof type, and with the sunroof hole weakening the roof I'm a bit worried that I'll crack the fibre glass getting it off. It should have been the first thing I did on this car but it looks like as it's inevetable, I just need to pluck up the courage. Now that I'm this close with the rear trim removed it might be sooner than later...

I've made a start on the left rear C pillar, a bit worse than the right but I'm making good progress. Really weird wielding a cutting wheel and chopping hunks out of your pride and joy. I bought the welder about 3 weeks ago and had never used a mig before, just got tired of promises of help that never eventuated. I say that as inspiration to others, do your research have a bit of a play and have a go :wink2:

I found this site to be absolutely fantastic with great tutorials and even little video explanations
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/
This guy is/was restoring a Renault R4, so shows the whole proccess, with great tutorials on welding/painting etc. :approve:

Cheers
Chris
 
Work like this 'usually reveals' more than one wants to find...
:wink2:

At least you ve cought it reasonably early and your repairs look good...if only other owners would jump onto the repairs early on...would save many headaches later...
well done though...its work like this that will insure these lovely machines keep on surviving...


:cheers:

dino
 
:wink2:

At least you ve cought it reasonably early and your repairs look good...if only other owners would jump onto the repairs early on...would save many headaches later...
well done though...its work like this that will insure these lovely machines keep on surviving...


:cheers:

dino

Thanks dino, I just want the car back on the road, getting close to two years and it's looking more like a wreck now than when I started :cry:

I've made some small progress on the left hand C pillar, but got side tracked with the roof :eek:

OMG, it looks shocking when you first reveal the tin worm... double skin where the parcel shelf meets the boot panel :eek:

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Out with the angle grinder...

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Form a patch, can you believe two bricks and a hammer to make the recess for the seat belt anchor, much more to do here but... :tongue:

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...as I said, distracted by the need to stop water getting in and causing this damage, so off with the roof. I started a thread in the Citroen forum which now covers the removal and replacement of the later bonded roof >> Removal of Bonded Roof D Special <<

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I've removed the sunroof, and the lining. My car had been re-lined using the typical grey velour that was original in the later Pallas models. I found that the thin foam backing had all but disintegrated, and all that was holding the lining in place was the sunroof. The spacer foam about 25mm thick is still very good (i.e. it was, I've had to remove it to clean up for new lining). I'm investigating the possibility of using something closer to original for a D Special - a sort of basket weave white/cream vinyl, it will still need the 25mm spacer foam to accommodate the sunroof.

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I've cleaned up the roof rails and prepared them ready to re-fit the roof. Of course the roof needs to be painted and most probably re-lined before re-fitting.

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Still having fun :D


Cheers
Chris
 

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That is a bit of a mess but it looks like you have got to it in time. The piece you have made looks great and you will find the outer skin of the pillar is not as difficult as it looks. Remember to make an indent in the inner skin of the pillar though to give clearance to insert the seat belt mounting bolt.
 
Remember to make an indent in the inner skin of the pillar though to give clearance to insert the seat belt mounting bolt.

Oh yes, I made myself very aware of that when removing the seat belt lugs, I couldn't get a socket on them and because they are quite recessed getting a spanner on was a challenge. On the right side I've given the inner skin plenty of roon for a socket. I'll make sure the left is the same.

The pics make the rust look horific, must be the flash highlighting every particle. Most of what you see is the potential damage if left unchecked, and a good wire brushing cleans things up. By cutting out the rot and getting back to something more solid it's not nearly as frightening, but the work I'm doing is very timely.

BTW, I'm glad of the shelter I have, but next project I want something like this - it even has my name on it :D

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Image courtesy of a good friend who has recently returned from a European holiday, it reminded him of me and couldn't resist a little bit of photoshop - Vaison la Romaine over the road from the Roman ruins. First customer is arriving. Avenue du General de Gaulle, Provence Dec 19, 2010.


Cheers
Chris
 

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March 27th.

Not a lot to report, although I worked pretty well non stop this weekend...

Finally finished the left hand C pillar, feels good to see the end of that rust for a while.

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A trial fit of the rear screen, I'm going to fit the 9 x 6" speaker ovals to the underside to brace the parcel shelf. Fit new vinyl with some acoustic foam, on the shelf and bolt the speakers through.

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...'twas a busy weekend, welding painting, cleaning bits and pieces and it does feel like I'm getting somewhere once parts start to go back on the car.

Cheers
Chris
 

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I forgot to introduce D(very)Special

This is just a filler :clown:

I've been having a look at a few Ds on the Internet as you do for inspiration, and of course a few for sale ads. I look at the pics and descriptions and given the work I'm doing on my car have to wonder just what is the real condition of some of these cars.

A few pics of my car before I started pulling it apart... quite flattering after a bit of rain :D

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Now if the car was for sale (it's not) the ad would read something like...
1974 D Special, rebuilt 2300 motor/ 5 speed gearbox/ air-conditioned/ sunroof.... previous owner was a doctor and no expense was spared... blah blah blah.

It's all true, but it's alarming what a bit of prodding and poking will reveal...

So, these are the before pics, I look forward to posting the re-furbed images :wink2:

Cheers
Chris
 

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Yes, there is no other car that can disguise so many serious problems in such a seductive outward appearance. You are lucky (or should I say wise) that you looked deeper before is was too late.
 
Hello Chris,
While reading your story I noticed you have a rotary air conditioner compressor and wondered if you could find the brand and model number or details of where it came from as I want to change the compressor on my DS23 as I don't like the reciprocating unit fitted.

Cheers

Colin
 
Hello Chris,
While reading your story I noticed you have a rotary air conditioner compressor and wondered if you could find the brand and model number or details of where it came from as I want to change the compressor on my DS23 as I don't like the reciprocating unit fitted.

Cheers

Colin

Hi Colin, I'll check out the compressor for you (in daylight, no light in my shed :D ).

This is my favourite photo so far.
How about a very special BX thread :wink2: ?

Can't wait to see the D after all this tender loving care!

frog, I spent more $$$ on the 16v in it's short time on the road than I have on the D in 15 years of ownership, including the work I'm doing now. Loved driving it when it behaved but... That car is a really good basis for a project for someone like yourself given the knowledge of your family especially Dave. I've kind of lost the passion to own a 16v but still love the look and of course the thrill of driving one.

The D is infinately more sympathetic to this kind of rejuvination, every panel can be removed and replaced in minutes, front guards half a dozen bolts, the doors loosen one bolt and wind back the adjusting screw and they lift off, rear guards one bolt, bonnet four bolts, roof five bolts, Windsceen and rear screen a couple of bolts each.

The bright work is all stainless steel other than the boot hinges which are alluminium, easily brought back to as new.

It was never my intention to strip the car but it is just so much easier to work on when you can see and get at the problem areas. They are just a delight to work on and perfect for DIY.

D(very)Special a little embarrassed with only one rear door, showing her nakedness :eek:

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Cheers
Chris
 

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That's looking really nice. Did you make your own replacement radiator chute ?

seeya,
Shane L.
 
That's looking really nice. Did you make your own replacement radiator chute ?

seeya,
Shane L.

I had the chute re-done when I first got the car, Ian at Euroserve in Brisbane organised it, nice job with zip and press stud all working. The old one was badly torn, and was a major contributor to the overheating in traffic. They certainly are not just for looks, integral to keeping the temp down :wink2:

Cheers
Chris
 
17th April 2011 - Windscreen

OK, with the roof off and rust repaired in the C-pillars and roof rail, I decided I needed to check for rust in the windscreen surrounds.

My windscreen has a few scratches caused by dry wipers, I found a supplier in Brisbane for a new tinted screen, this is full tint with a darker top tint, I won't mention the cost other than to say under $200.00 I think the supplier Dave at ABC Windscreens gave me a good price.

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The good news is I found no rust other than some surface rust under the rubber between the scuttle and the dash, a good wire brushing, deoxidine, and paint and I was ready to fit the new screen. I had previously brought in a new screen rubber via Geert at Citroworld.

First trap for the unwary is that the rubber is longer than required, (better than too short).

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The other trap is that the new rubber is supplied as a length and has no curve at the top corners. When trying to fit the rubber to the glass it just springs away. The old rubber now has memory and retains the shape of the screen.

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I figured there was no way I was going to be able to fit the screen on my own this weekend, so, I've fitted the rubber to the windscreen frame hoping that come next weekend it may have taken on this shape.

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I've read through the PDF that Richo scanned for the Tony Jackson DS files, all good info (I love the part that says 'With a wooden block and a hammer, strike on the bottom of the windscreen surround, to flatten it against the glass' :eek: ), but if anyone has first hand knowledge and any tips (michaelr you've just recently been though this :wink2: ), I'd appreciate a few pointers. :wink2:

Edit: add link to TJ PDF
The windscreen reference is in #417 page 170 with the illustration on PL.65 or page 305 of the PDF.
http://www.agua.nu/ds-files/tony-jackson/red-cd/Body repair 471/

Cheers
Chris
 

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