7 piston pump reassembly

bleudanube

bleudanube

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Quick question for the experienced froggers:

been reassembling the pump and am wondering how far the pump swash plate arbour needs to be pushed/pressed in?

assuming the front bearing sits flush with the housing, that would restrict the distance the shaft can be pushed in anyway... if I use that as the “end stop”, the little olive however doesn’t fully sit on the shaft at its highest point... and the upper section of the shaft sticks out over the inner bearing housing...

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I marked up the photos - or is there a measurement of the distance the shaft sticks out past the bearing to mount

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The manuals don’t seem to describe the process and I of course didn’t take an appropriate photo to guide me ...

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Does anyone know?

Sven
 
check this out.
makes me want to rebuild mine for no reason whatsoever except watch it spin on a drill!
 
Intertesting, he also uses a puller, same as I did and the front bearing started pushing out as well... he then hammers it in with a socket...

well, I will give it another go tomorrow, looks pretty straight forward - looks like I was on the right path.
 
I made up a jig pretty similar to the factory tool using a plank of wood with 4 holes drilled in it and 3 pieces of studing. You can use it to hold the front bearing in place while pressing the shaft in.

I think the main shaft needs to be pressed in further. This pump was rebuilt by Rodger Parker a couple of years back but has since been filled with water so ignore the rust.

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Yes it goes all the way..... the shaft step is the stop.
I pull it in with the pulley nut, and a small spacer instead of the pulley. Easy peasy.

Geez, i wouldn't use that video as a guide. He did lots of things that made me shudder.
There is no way I would spin it with a drill like that with no fluid in it. The pistons would be screaming for lube.
Nor would I use a mallet to drive the cover on. A nice gentle press with a block of wood shaped to the dome.
 
Buttercup said:
Yes it goes all the way..... the shaft step is the stop.
I pull it in with the pulley nut, and a small spacer instead of the pulley. Easy peasy.

Geez, i wouldn't use that video as a guide. He did lots of things that made me shudder.
There is no way I would spin it with a drill like that with no fluid in it. The pistons would be screaming for lube.
Nor would I use a mallet to drive the cover on. A nice gentle press with a block of wood shaped to the dome.
Click to expand...
Same here! watched at least one video of a pump spinning on a drill and thought better of it. I DID put mine on a slow drill for a matter of seconds - to check for free movement, and made sure each pump was well lubricated with LHM before I did.
 
Ok gents, all done and pump is all good! Thanks for the advice. Onto the next item... the brake pedal assembly.

again two tricky steps I have a question about:

have I assembled the plunger in the brake distributor correctly (again no photo taken and the manual isn’t clear either)?

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question 2: the little felt washers between the valve block and the carrier don’t seem to seal the rods overly well against the carrier. Are they supposed to leak very slowly and that’s why there is a drain on the bottom of the carrier? Looks like a design with a better seal would be better than a felt washer - or does the felt swell up so much over time that it seals any leaking LHM?

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Have assembled it, but for peace of mind I again would appreciate your thoughts!

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The felt washer is more of a wiper to take dust off the spool valve as it’s pressed into the valve body. They rely on the fine machining tolerance to seal.
 
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Ok, so the felt washer is correctly installed.

what about the plunger / spring arrangement - is the way I assembled it correct?

Sven
 
Thanks faulksy - it looked right to me, but then I started wondering... all good, one more item reassembled. Onto the next one!
 
I’d grab a copy of manual 518 if you don’t already have one. It has sections for rebuilding things that aren’t in 814

Manual 583 has everything but is only in French.
 
Yes, 518 is excellent, even for later cars.

Only volume 1 (characteristics, adjustments, checks) of 583 was published in English.

Roger
 
faulksy said:
I’d grab a copy of manual 518 if you don’t already have one. It has sections for rebuilding things that aren’t in 814

Manual 583 has everything but is only in French.
Click to expand...
Yep, thought the same. I actually have both, just not printed out (yet) - will get onto that now that I am reassembling the Safari.
 
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