Dan, if you have a close-up of your car I'd like to have it for the Register, so I can do justice to your magnificent car on the website.
69 404 restoration
- Thread starter Dano
- Start date
Looking for help with fine tuning the gear selector configuration. Picking 1st and reverse is a bit of a hit and miss process at times. The selector mechanism was completely overhauled during the resto phase. So it is isn't worn/sloppy linkages etc.
This is what happens. When selecting 1st from a standing start, it is easier to get it into gear by selecting 2nd gear first. I find this odd as it is on the same plain in the gearbox.
Finding reverse is again hit or miss. At times it feels as though it is in gear, but pops out as soon as the clutch is released. (1st does the same thing) Interesting (?) as they are on opposite ends of the pattern and internal selector configuration.
Once in gear and moving, all the forward gears are easy to select. The movement is smooth and the spring loading/moving action is perfect.
I have dicked around with the linkages, but with no success. The question is I guess, is there a sequence of adjustments that I should be doing?
Somewhere along my travels, I have seen an article in an old edition of the PCCV Torque magazine, which explained how to adjust the selector linkages. Would anyone have a copy of this article, that they could share with me please.
Any advice will be appreciated.
Cheers,
Dano
This is what happens. When selecting 1st from a standing start, it is easier to get it into gear by selecting 2nd gear first. I find this odd as it is on the same plain in the gearbox.
Finding reverse is again hit or miss. At times it feels as though it is in gear, but pops out as soon as the clutch is released. (1st does the same thing) Interesting (?) as they are on opposite ends of the pattern and internal selector configuration.
Once in gear and moving, all the forward gears are easy to select. The movement is smooth and the spring loading/moving action is perfect.
I have dicked around with the linkages, but with no success. The question is I guess, is there a sequence of adjustments that I should be doing?
Somewhere along my travels, I have seen an article in an old edition of the PCCV Torque magazine, which explained how to adjust the selector linkages. Would anyone have a copy of this article, that they could share with me please.
Any advice will be appreciated.
Cheers,
Dano
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2000
- Messages
- 11,441
You know about the 10mm nut which clamps onto a rod? This is next to the gearbox, RHS.
Thanks Graham,
Yep, it was the first thing I tinkered with. Think it is more to do with the length of the shorter linkages. They were originally set up as per the specifications in the factory manual. Many years ago, I had been down the same road. Too long ago to remember how I fixed it.
Thanks for you reply.
Dan
Getting the 404 into first by going to second then back was something I found I had to do with all three late models when the clutch had a bit of air in it or the linkage was just a little bit out. Since you've done the bracing mod to stop the pivot from breaking off, the pivot arm will have moved due to the weld pull. Try departing from the factory settings by 1 turn to counter the change from the weld pull. You want the gear lever to not go as close to the dashboard as it is now when moving across the gate to the 1-2 plane. I can't remember if this requires longer or shorter. Check the forged arm (held on by the above mentioned 10mm nut) isn't wobbling on the splines just to annoy you!
Have fun!
Have fun!
Looks fantastic. I had a leek from the bottom hose on my 504 cab which only happened several minutes after switching off after a drive. Dispite a new hose and clamp it continued .It turned out the rad cap was not correct and a new one solved the problem and now it comes out the overflow pipe next to the cap as it should.
Thanks Julian.
I'll keep that in mind. I'll change the hose first, then see what happens. I'm leaning towards the hose, as it had one of those stupid thin plastic label tabs pierced through the hose when delivered. Thought it was high enough, but maybe not?
Cheers
Dan
Are you using a 4lb cap? A lot of modern caps run it at 15lb, which is rather too high
Andrew
Hi Andrew and Julian,
The current radiator cap is a genuine NOS cap for hot countries part number. Need to find the details.
Been thinking about it since Julian's response. The leak happens when being driven/motor running. It is a small spray/mist see image below. Most of the moisture is around the top of the bottom hose.
Cheers
Dan
The current radiator cap is a genuine NOS cap for hot countries part number. Need to find the details.
Been thinking about it since Julian's response. The leak happens when being driven/motor running. It is a small spray/mist see image below. Most of the moisture is around the top of the bottom hose.
Cheers
Dan
A 15 lb cap will split the top radiator tank.
Cannot believe my luck(?)!
Eventually found the water leak around the water pump area. It was the impeller seal in a NOS pump that was leaking. Easy fix, install the spare (New) backup one, problem solved. Well not so! Just arrive home, and notice water dripping on to the garage floor. The back up pump is also leaking from the impeller seal drain hole. My thinking is, being old stock, the seals in both pumps must have fused themselves to the housing surfaces.
If anyone has a new water pump rebuild kit or just a impeller seal and is prepared to sell it, please let me know.
Cheers,
Dano
Eventually found the water leak around the water pump area. It was the impeller seal in a NOS pump that was leaking. Easy fix, install the spare (New) backup one, problem solved. Well not so! Just arrive home, and notice water dripping on to the garage floor. The back up pump is also leaking from the impeller seal drain hole. My thinking is, being old stock, the seals in both pumps must have fused themselves to the housing surfaces.
If anyone has a new water pump rebuild kit or just a impeller seal and is prepared to sell it, please let me know.
Cheers,
Dano
my sympathy Dan, had same problem with 203 , 404 not as easy to rebuild as a 403. never heard of a kit for 404
early 504 pumps are very cheap on fleabay atm.
i found if i pulled the pulley harder onto the seal the 403 stopped leaking , maybe check pulley is going onto the shaft enough? ,
after market pump might have thicker shaft by a nats wisker?
might be worth checking that there is some impediment to the pump sealing against the head , coolant my run the the same point ?
does the pump turn fereely when bolted up ? if not could be due to thicker welsh plug (been there !!)
good luck, let us know the outcome pls
early 504 pumps are very cheap on fleabay atm.
i found if i pulled the pulley harder onto the seal the 403 stopped leaking , maybe check pulley is going onto the shaft enough? ,
after market pump might have thicker shaft by a nats wisker?
might be worth checking that there is some impediment to the pump sealing against the head , coolant my run the the same point ?
does the pump turn fereely when bolted up ? if not could be due to thicker welsh plug (been there !!)
good luck, let us know the outcome pls
How bad is the leak ?. My recently acquired 69 404 had a small leak from same hole. However I run the car reasonably often and found the leak disappeared. Might be the easy solution.......
Hi Colin,
Thanks for your thoughts.
Both pumps were/are leaking through the weep hole on the underside of the impeller housing.
The first one, started as a very slow leak, which took a while to find/see. If I hadn't been lying underneath and saw the drop, it could have been easily missed. Number two, is a non-genuine model and it has started to leak within 150 miles. It is quite a substantial leak. Unlike the first, this one leaks quite freely. You can see it dripping.
When taking off the first pump, I did check the head/hosing faces etc. but all looked okay. As you suggested, I had also tried nipping up the the tension on the shaft, but nothing changed.
Time to and it may be easier to just buy a new (more recently made) pump.
Oh well, the car is still great to drive. These things happen.
Cheers,
Dan