69 404 clutch slave removal.

hosgood

New member
Tadpole
Joined
Aug 20, 2019
Messages
5
Location
South Australia
Hey there,
i've bought myself a 1969 404 that i'm redoing the clutch slave and master as they're both rusty as internally.

i've removed the master cylinder okay and am just wondering the correct removal method for the slave.

i have removed the circlip that from what i can see would be holding it in now do i need to disconnect the rod on the clutch fork at all somehow or do i just need to give it a little muscle (love tap with a rubber mallet) to push it out. looks a little rusty around the slave where it sits on the bell housing..

any advice or thoughts are appreciated cheers.
 
Hi Hosgood,

The following is out of the factory repair manual.

Note:
From memory it is easier if you,
1. Only remove the left cross member bolt.
2. loosen the right side bolt , to allow movement.
3. Remove the bottom large engine mount nut, on the under side of the mount.
4. Turn the steering wheel to full left lock.
5. Pull the left side of the rack down
6. Gently/carefully place a suitable jack under the gearbox and raise it to clear the engine mount from the cradle slightly. Cautiously

The cylinder should with a little persuasion slide forward.

The clutch fork lever (In bell-housing) will slide out of the rubber boot. There is no need to try and remove the fork. It can be a pain relocating it.

Bleeding the system can also be a pain. I haven't done it in a long time, so hopefully others will offer assistance/tips with this procedure.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Dano

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Time, dirt and corrosion can make slave cylinders very difficult to remove. If its dirty, corroded etc spend some time cleaning.
 
To bleed it after replacement put a tube from the lh brake caliper to the slave cylinder and pump the brakes .Maybe bleed the brakes first so you have new fluid going to the clutch .Sometimes the clutch doesnt feel 100 percent at first but left overnight it is perfect the next day .i dont remember having to move the steering rack
 
Its been a while since iv done it ,and will have to do it soon myself as i have a slow leak somewhere ,i do recall that by rotating the cylinder it is easier to remove ,bleeding ,fill up the slave before installing ,i used a squeeze bottle to force fluid up from the bottom, operating the little bleeder valve under th fluid level in the master will produce bubbles ,my gears were crashing a little recently and by operating that little valve some bubbles came up ,then the clutch disengaged properly ,ps when you have the master removed ,make sure the pedal isnt binding [operating freely ,] i do recall that i had to devise an adjustable rod from pedal to cylinder ,to eliminate free play so the clutch would fully disengage ,pugs, mines a 69 as well
 
Hi Hosgood,

The following is out of the factory repair manual.

Note:
From memory it is easier if you,
1. Only remove the left cross member bolt.
2. loosen the right side bolt , to allow movement.
3. Remove the bottom large engine mount nut, on the under side of the mount.
4. Turn the steering wheel to full left lock.
5. Pull the left side of the rack down
6. Gently/carefully place a suitable jack under the gearbox and raise it to clear the engine mount from the cradle slightly. Cautiously

The cylinder should with a little persuasion slide forward.

The clutch fork lever (In bell-housing) will slide out of the rubber boot. There is no need to try and remove the fork. It can be a pain relocating it.

Bleeding the system can also be a pain. I haven't done it in a long time, so hopefully others will offer assistance/tips with this procedure.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Dano

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I loosen the lower engine mount bolts . This allows you to lift the engine the 10mm or so necessary for the slave to clear the cross member.

If it's seized in bell housing. disconnect the hydraulic line, thoroughly spray with Innox and turn the slave with a spanner using the flat section of the cylinder to grip it.
 
Last edited:
thank's for all the input. I've put the tools down for a few days due to some busy days at work but I think I will have another crack during the week and try a few methods. Thanks again.
 
Bleeding is dead simple, all you need to do is pull the piston up and down with your fingers while under the bonnet. Occasionally press the valve in the middle of the reservoir while you're doing this. The air will bubble out under the valve. Far easier than the 504/505 system.
 
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