505 won't fire up after cambelt change

[baldrick56]

Finally got a working ignition switch so able to attempt to start the 505 - but it won't. Changed the cambelt (before discovering the dodgy starter switch) following the 'Haynes' procedure augmented by previous posts on this very forum. Now there's no sign of life and I'm suspecting the dizzy might be misaligned either because I'm one tooth off or it was one tooth off on the old belt now having been corrected pulley-wise but not dizzy casing-wise. At the moment I'm struggling to turn the motor to check out the theory since with all the front end paraphernalia in place I cannot even get my fingers to the crank pulley bolt (oh it was so easy with all the stuff removed for the belt swap ) guess I might try removing all plugs then temporarily 'overtighten' the fanbelt and use the nut on the alternator? Any other magic ways?
Thanks,
Rob

 

[baldrick56]

update - all plugs out & turning via fanbelt/alternator worked, its difficult to see (& even more difficult to photo) but it looks as though rotor arm has passed the 'turret' position of No.1 lead terminal on the dizzy when the crank pulley mark is against the indicator on the timing gear cover.

Not understanding, 'cos all the stripes / marks lined up on the belt/pulleys. Really, really, really wish I'd checked it when everything else dismantled

 

[GRAHAM WALLIS]

There are 3 positions the dissy drive can be inserted, not mentioned in the Haines Manual, Peugeot workshop manual mentions it.

 

[pugwash]

i have been here before ,the manual gives you the orientation of the slot in the in block shaft gear for TDC on no one fireing ,if its wrong the drive gear can be lifted up with some long nose and rotares to the nxt tooth ,there is very little room down there and the vacuum pod on the distributor will only clear if this slot is correct ,I hadthe cam belt replaced lineing up all the marks ,only to find that the last guy had got the in block cam shaft that now runs the oil pump and distributor ,wrong and rather than pull it apart ,rotated the drive gear ,so now i had it rite ,the gear was now wrong ,i had paid amobile mechanic to do the job ,and he couldnt work it out becaust he thaught no1 was at tthe front ,i paid him for his time then had to work it out myself the nxt morning ,he managed to hole the radiator as well ,what a disaster !!

 

[baldrick56]

i have been here before ,the manual gives you the orientation of the slot in the in block shaft gear for TDC on no one fireing ,if its wrong the drive gear can be lifted up with some long nose and rotares to the nxt tooth ,there is very little room down there and the vacuum pod on the distributor will only clear if this slot is correct ,I hadthe cam belt replaced lineing up all the marks ,only to find that the last guy had got the in block cam shaft that now runs the oil pump and distributor ,wrong and rather than pull it apart ,rotated the drive gear ,so now i had it rite ,the gear was now wrong ,i had paid amobile mechanic to do the job ,and he couldnt work it out becaust he thaught no1 was at tthe front ,i paid him for his time then had to work it out myself the nxt morning ,he managed to hole the radiator as well ,what a disaster !!

That sounds a whole lot easier (make that less difficult ) than removing everything out of the front end once more - might be the way to go.

 

[PeteB]

Hi Baldrick56, sent you a couple of pm's regarding your classified, have you received them? Peter

 

[driven]

Bush Mechanic to rescue, manual transmission I hope
To turn engine over, jack up rear wheel, engage 2nd gear rotate tyre, engine should turn over
Used this on my old Range when starter motor failed.
Real bugger in heavy traffic though

 

[Beano]

Best to work it all out by first principles. I know this is a 505 Series 2, but the Haynes manual for Series 1 describes incorrectly the procedure for aligning the dizzy drive with camshaft. This is not just my opinion, but known fact. Hence the nickname The Haynes Book Of Lies.