505 Rear Window De-activation

[baldrick56]

Hi All,

been doing some electrical work on the 505 (more of that in another post) and fitted an auxillary switch in the cluster to the lower LHS of the dash - mainly 'cos you can get to that without too much dismantlement. In 'standard' form the cluster has one switch in the centre being the de-activation for the rear windows & two knock out blanks - one of which I removed for my new switch. Took a bit of fiddling as the knockout wasn't tall enough for the accessory switch so I filed the housing top & bottom until the new switch fitted. All this seems to have upset the existing switch as when I turned everything on to test it was illuminated & no rear window action. Pushed the switch for all I'm worth but it won't turn off Pulled the switch out the dash & its still connected to the plug properly. Does anyone know if the terminals can be bridged in the plug to bypass this switch (I've never needed to use it!) and which to which terminal?
Thanks,
Rob

 

[baldrick56]

OK can't work this out - to my idiot simple way of thinking a window switch should require three terminals, one "hot" (or hot through the key) not doing anything until the switch activated, one feed to the goesup side of motor, one feed to the goesdown side of motor. So why do Peugeot have five connections? - OK one might be earth - seems to be confirmed by my multimeter, so there's four, but five?

 

[baldrick56]

OK - bit of progress - I'v found the following online:

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/downloads/12V Electric Window & Aerial Switch wiring diagram.pdf

so probability is the centre pin is the 'feed' (purple wire in my case). There's a purple wire connection in one of the five pins of the cutout switch, however there's a degree of continuity (different ohm values) between purple & every pin in the cutout switch! cutout switch also has two red wires to two pins, neither live with key 'off,' both live with key 'on' (I'm suspecting one is simply the illumination within the cutout switch & the other is the 'business' high current feed).

 

[robs]

I think the extra connection is for the illumination. So there are the three wires to handle the motor as you said, and a power and ground for the globe inside the switch. In my 505 it's powered with ignition on, not the lights; easy to check with the multimeter.

Have fun,

Rob.

 

[baldrick56]

Finally I have operational rear windows - but not quite in the way I wanted After hooking up an auxillary battery +ve to terminal 4) of the plug to the dashswitch (on photo) & -ve to earth I found the rear windows operated. In theory I should've been able to bridge terminal 1) to 4) & forget about the switch. What bothered me was the red wire to 1) seemed skinny in comparison to the (dual) thick purple wire to 4). Began to think there must be a relay in the picture somewhere (which might explain the also heavy-grade blue wire in 5) the purpose of which I couldn't fathom). In the end I prised apart the dashswitch, found there was a toothed nylon wheel the width of the switch which had cams that either depressed or not sprung terminals. the wheel turns every time the switch is pushed and the sets of cams alternate between "off" and "on." I just turned the wheel with an instrument screwdriver until the "off" cams engaged, put the plug back on, & stuck it back in the dash with insulating tape (hopefully) stopping any motion if its inadvertantly pushed. Right at the start of all this I foolishly spent ages scanning the wiring diagrams in 'Haynes 762' needless to say couldn't even find the components thereon, if you're reading this in the UK that faint rumbling sound you can hear is Harry Beck spinning in his grave now he's been made aware of Haynes 762 - model of clarity NOT.