Does anyone know if a 73 504 sump can be removed with the engine in the car or does the motor need to be out. I have a leaking gasket i want to replace.
504 sump gasket
- Thread starter julian c b
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Yes, you can do it in place, no problem.
Support engine with a jack and wooden blocks under bell housing. You can jack up the engine best from under the bell housing.
Remove the two bolts holding on the drivers side engine mount.
Loosen the one large nut holding on the passenger side engine mount. This is necessary as if you don't, and you then jack up the engine, the rubber in that mount will break.
Then jack up engine. The bolt on the drivers side mount will move through the open slot and then up.
Have fun lining up all the holes in the gasket with the sump bolt holes. Most people tack on the gasket first with contact adhesive or even superglue (though that is not very forgiving if you mis-align slightly)
Support engine with a jack and wooden blocks under bell housing. You can jack up the engine best from under the bell housing.
Remove the two bolts holding on the drivers side engine mount.
Loosen the one large nut holding on the passenger side engine mount. This is necessary as if you don't, and you then jack up the engine, the rubber in that mount will break.
Then jack up engine. The bolt on the drivers side mount will move through the open slot and then up.
Have fun lining up all the holes in the gasket with the sump bolt holes. Most people tack on the gasket first with contact adhesive or even superglue (though that is not very forgiving if you mis-align slightly)
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1973, eh ? That's an old one. Have you got a single circuit brake master cylinder or tandem ? If it's single, I hope you renew it regularly...when they fail, they fail completely. But new ones (or re-sleeved in stainless, with new seals) are fairly cheap, really.
single , Ive just renewed it with a new one
Good onya. How is the rear brake compensation valve, up near the diff ? When they get old they tend to either leak or freeze up, which then (as far as I know) causes one rear brake to lock up when you brake fast and hard.
Years ago, people used to say you couldn't repair them, but our member IanRobbo re-sleeves them in stainless, with new seals. He does a good job, too. They're hard to get new.
Only other problem to keep an an eye out for is the phenomenon of the rear brake calipers not releasing properly, which causes the pads on whichever side is first affected to overheat (you'll smell it) and wear out. Are you aware of this ? Short-term fix (to get home) is to whack on the arm (the one the brake cable is attached to) to manually push it back towards the wheel.. Use a piece of wood or a rock if necessary. Long term fix is to fit "helper" coil-type springs. Therre's a thread about it somewhere.
Years ago, people used to say you couldn't repair them, but our member IanRobbo re-sleeves them in stainless, with new seals. He does a good job, too. They're hard to get new.
Only other problem to keep an an eye out for is the phenomenon of the rear brake calipers not releasing properly, which causes the pads on whichever side is first affected to overheat (you'll smell it) and wear out. Are you aware of this ? Short-term fix (to get home) is to whack on the arm (the one the brake cable is attached to) to manually push it back towards the wheel.. Use a piece of wood or a rock if necessary. Long term fix is to fit "helper" coil-type springs. Therre's a thread about it somewhere.
as beano said sump removal can be done with engine in car,in addition to beano advice would be to remove fan shroud securing screws as fan will hit on top of shroud when engine jacked up,may also need to remove both sway bar 13mm bolts securing D rubbers,let swaybar drop down and slide sump through between front cross member and sway bar.also keep an eye on radiator hoses when jacking up engine so as not to damage hoses or radiator outlet pipes….Jim
This is the bit you need to fix your hand brake from dragging. Part Number 4408.04.
They crack with age.
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I ve had no problems with hand brake dragging or compensater leaking.
Thanks for the prompt - need to do my sump gasket as well....
And rebuild rear calipers....
And rebuild front calipers
And probably worth replacing seals in Master Cylinder (be 5 years since I last did them)
But my brake proportioning valve is new!
Joys of owning a 50 year old car.....
And rebuild rear calipers....
And rebuild front calipers
And probably worth replacing seals in Master Cylinder (be 5 years since I last did them)
But my brake proportioning valve is new!
Joys of owning a 50 year old car.....
Hey wow....it _is_ 50, too. Quite venerable, and amongst the very best in Australia now.....I have seen it in real life at Bastille Day.
New seals don't last as long as a new cylinder, no matter how good the bore looks on inspection.
I had a '72 model and the feel of the pedal changed slightly, though nothing dramatic. I bought new seals and kept them in the glove box, to do in a few weeks.
Then one day the master failed totally and catastrophically. By sheer luck, I was on a back street and coasted to a stop, but I had only just been on a main road with lights, cross roads, trucks and lots of cars....
New seals don't last as long as a new cylinder, no matter how good the bore looks on inspection.
I had a '72 model and the feel of the pedal changed slightly, though nothing dramatic. I bought new seals and kept them in the glove box, to do in a few weeks.
Then one day the master failed totally and catastrophically. By sheer luck, I was on a back street and coasted to a stop, but I had only just been on a main road with lights, cross roads, trucks and lots of cars....
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Replaced the proportioning valve in my 505 today. The brakes are no longer sticking on and it goes a lot better because of that. Also the vibration at 100 km has gone, presumably caused by the rear brakes being stuck on.Thanks for the prompt - need to do my sump gasket as well....
And rebuild rear calipers....
And rebuild front calipers
And probably worth replacing seals in Master Cylinder (be 5 years since I last did them)
But my brake proportioning valve is new!
Joys of owning a 50 year old car.....
aaawww,bit slow in backspacing brain,but while sump is off I would check around rear main cap side seal rubbers to see if they have shrunk back a bit which would give a small gap between seal and gasket.also check rear main cap that oil drain hole is clear.at other end of block at timing case end I would check area where front cover plate that timing case bolts to and engine block meet as sometimes can be a small gap there where gasket is.also check,if steel sump,bolt holes Aren’t tuliped from over tightening causing uneven pressure sealing of gasket.lastly the obvious crankcase ventilation via wire gauze filter in oil filler tube is not blocked.another couple of thoughts….jim
^ EXCELLENT points, Jim ! Especially the last, as it is often overlooked.
And if any of those other areas are suspect, clean them very well to ensure adhesion, then apply dabs of gasket-grade silicone.
And if any of those other areas are suspect, clean them very well to ensure adhesion, then apply dabs of gasket-grade silicone.