504 coolants

forumnoreason

forumnoreason

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I'm prepping for some fluid changes on the new Familiale, and it has been suggested by a knowledgeable man to ditch the green coolant/antifreeze and replace with Penrite racing inhibitor (after thorough flush of course).
I'm curious to know of any opinions on this, as people vary widely on do's and dont's using coolants.
 
well I live in a climate that hardly ever drops below 20c ever.

The explanation given for using it included there was no need for antifreeze properties, better anti corrosion and it kept the engine cooler more than general stuff overall.
 
it just comes up with nulon, is there a link you can paste in please?
 
^ I think you are probably right.
504s had sand-cast alloy heads which suffered from porosity. Just a good quality coolant is best....like Nulon or Penrite.
 
A reminder that the 504's were filled with water only at the factory and at least until the late 1970's Peugeot recommended against the use of any coolant additives lest they damage the plastic cylinder liner seals. Provided good quality water was used and the radiator flushed every few years there weren't any problems. But bore water was deadly.
 
Get the racing stuff, non Glycol. Glycol is for antifreeze and causes problems including corrosion. Best thing is to buy Valvoline Glycol free from BigW or Woolworths supermarkets, the only place you can readily buy it. 10 dollars per container. Pretty sure it is the same thing as the Penrite Racing certainly smells the same. You used to be able to buy Clean Team glycol free at Autobarn but this has been deleted.
 
Peugeot cylinder heads did not suffer from porosity which sand casting would not have caused anyway. Batch problems can happen but Peugeot foundry techniques and alloys were admired throughout the automotive industry.
 
Well, you are more of an expert than me, Russell. But 504 heads did suffer a lot from tap water here in Brisbane causing electrolysis and consequent erosion....I saw the effects many times.
 
Bruce Tayler was of the opinion it was caused by the earthing of the electromagnetic fan clutch. It affected city cars more than country and was not general. It may have been a change in the formula of the alpax or it may have been other factors. My 203 and 504 heads are in perfect order but I've seen them run on bore water and be destroyed. My first job was in a foundry using sand casting for valves. Properly done sand casting produces a good result.
 
I used Total green coolant (orange container) in my ZN3J (505 V6) for years which later rusted the cooling system and damaged cylinder 4 piston liner's seal/gasket and coolant started entering into the oil pan from there. It also affected the cooling system hoses (made them cracky). I eventually pulled out the cylinder heads and found the damaged gasket (rubber seal). I couldn't find a complete set of seal that could match match ZN3J Pistons at the time (except I would have to search and order them from Europe and leave the Engine open for weeks or months before they are delivered). So, I found something/seal I could use to replace the damaged seal and mount the cylinder heads back with 3.0 (ZPJ) head gaskets which surprisingly worked perfectly well on the 2.8 (ZN3J) Engine. The corrosion caused by the coolant also damaged the water pump. And since the corrosion could also have affected the other sleeve gaskets of other cylinders, I knew it was a question of time before they give up as well. So, it made me loose confidence on that Engine.

The pink Total coolant on white container (CoolElf Auto Supra 37°C) is organic coolant which I use in my ES9A. It truly prevents any form of corrosion from the cooling system.

Total Australia recommended organic coolant for the 504/505 Engines, at least the XN (CoolTech LLO Coolant). So, since I have no business again with the Total green coolant, I have been considering the organic coolant for my new XN1A which is still running on water. Even if I decide not to use the Coolelf or organic coolant in the XN1A, eventually I will have to drain the water and put a coolant (probably from another brand) for I know water is not good for the XN1A Engine as well.

Lion-King Monk.
 

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For the last 11 years I've enjoyed being the owner of a 505 GTi wagon as my daily driver. I use only distilled water, plus a Tectaloy inhibitor, and drain and replace it every 2 years as part of it's yearly service. I also have a 16 year old Triton ute. which has been given the same treatment. Neither have any signs of corrosion. I should add that since I live in south western Australia there is no to use anti-freeze -- even though frost does occasionally appear on the windscreen.
Pavel.
 
Ikenna351 said:
I used Total green coolant (orange container) in my ZN3J (505 V6) for years which later rusted the cooling system and damaged cylinder 4 piston liner's seal/gasket and coolant started entering into the oil pan from there. It also affected the cooling system hoses (made them cracky). I eventually pulled out the cylinder heads and found the damaged gasket (rubber seal). I couldn't find a complete set of seal that could match match ZN3J Pistons at the time (except I would have to search and order them from Europe and leave the Engine open for weeks or months before they are delivered). So, I found something/seal I could use to replace the damaged seal and mount the cylinder heads back with 3.0 (ZPJ) head gaskets which surprisingly worked perfectly well on the 2.8 (ZN3J) Engine. The corrosion caused by the coolant also damaged the water pump. And since the corrosion could also have affected the other sleeve gaskets of other cylinders, I knew it was a question of time before they give up as well. So, it made me loose confidence on that Engine.

The pink Total coolant on white container (CoolElf Auto Supra 37°C) is organic coolant which I use in my ES9A. It truly prevents any form of corrosion from the cooling system.

Total Australia recommended organic coolant for the 504/505 Engines, at least the XN (CoolTech LLO Coolant). So, since I have no business again with the Total green coolant, I have been considering the organic coolant for my new XN1A which is still running on water. Even if I decide not to use the Coolelf or organic coolant in the XN1A, eventually I will have to drain the water and put a coolant (probably from another brand) for I know water is not good for the XN1A Engine as well.

Lion-King Monk.
Click to expand...
DO NOT use organic coolant in your XN1.
It's either INORGANIC (IAT) or distilled water + inhibitor.
 
Doush the penrite inhibitor is a hybrid organic so you suggest not to use?
 
forumnoreason said:
Doush the penrite inhibitor is a hybrid organic so you suggest not to use?
Click to expand...
Not sure about the hybrid stuff usually preferred in the Japanese stuff.
Organic coolants do offer longer change intervals but they do not cope well specially with brass radiators.
That is why inorganic is the go for us.
If organic was OK, I would have used the Peugeot/Citroën original coolant in a heartbeat.
 
I think this Penrite race inhibitor should be fine to use as their Classic Car inhibitor uses Hybrid OAT also and is noted as being ok for a 504.
 
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