504 clutch slave cylinder removal

K

keithm

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Nov 28, 2010
Messages
209
Location
Melbourne
Just wondering how I extract the clutch slave cylinder from its mount . It is a 75 model if there is a difference .

Thanks in advance
 
There's a big circlip. If the cylinder is still stuck after you take off the circlip, use some WD40 and tap (but not whack) it ....but not with anything too heavy. The housing is aluminium.

Do you know how to bleed it after you put in a new one ? It's quite different from bleeding brakes, and will potentially drive you nuts if you don't know how . Do a search of this forum.
 
i seem to recall that it has to be rotated to a particular position before it will slide out
,a squeeze bottle full of fluid attached to the bleed nipple and forcing fluid back to the master seemed to work for me
 
Thanks to both of you . I have only had a very quick look today so your advice is invaluable especially about bleeding the system . It's a long time since I worked on the clutch hydraulics on a 504 . I should be able to get to it tomorrow .

Once again thank you both
 
Long, long ago when I use to work on 504s, I sometimes had a devil of a time removing clutch slave cylinders. The alloy housing together with the cast iron slave cylinder, time and moisture proved to be a diabolical combination. The judicious use of WD40, and a large spanner across the flats near the pipe end to rotate the cylinder usually eventually freed it.
 
julian c b said:
you can bleed it by attaching a tube from the brake calliper and pressing the brake pedal
Click to expand...
Julian.
Using this method could compound Keith M's problems. When depressing the brake pedal the brake cylinder piston will enter the area where the piston hasn't previously travelled causing a leak.
The previously mentioned squeeze bottle or alternately a clean oil can with rubber/plastic hose to back bleed the slave.
Oh, coat the slave cylinder outer with graphite grease when refitting. You may have to revisit this job in 10 years or so !
 
What dad and I do is empty reservoir and get a big syringe full of brake fluid and crack bleeder on slave cylinder. Get someone to watch the reservoir so it doesn't over flow and that gets no air leaks tighten bleeder and jump in car and pump the clutch pedal. Not fast or you'll air raid the fluid. 10x quicker than using a brake caliper as you could put dirt in it from bleeder on caliper. Hope this helps

BP
 
Thanks all . Reverse bleeding the clutch seems to be the way to go . I am replacing the clutch master and slave as well as the brake master cylinder . I was planning to use dot 4 so long it is compatible with the seals
 
If you have any problems bleeding, you can do 2 things.
1) Tap the line between master and slave (both the metal part and the rubber part). This consolidates and tiny air bubbles into one big one.
2) Let it sit for a few minutes to let the bubbles go up. A few presses of the pedal, and HEY PRESTO !
 
The proper way to bleed the clutch slave is to rotate the slave cylinder 180 degrees so that the bleed nipple is on the top. Bleed it in the normal way then rotate it back to where you started. I think this is the way Mr Peugeot meant it to be done. From memory there is a small lock plate that stops the cylinder rotating.
 
Normal ?
I assure you that what is normal for brakes and so on in other cars, is not normal for 504 slave cylinders. A search of this forum may yield the reason, or at least a lot of frustration from people who were unable to do it as they have with other cars. Please trust myself and the others here who have posted.
 
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