407 hdi Engine Overheating

Obviously disconnect the battery before starting the engine bay fuse bix swap.

Ensure both are the same part number.

Swap fuses over one by one snd check their condition before plugging into the new box.

Once all plugged in and fitted.

Connect the battery, leave car for 3 mins. Put key in ACC position leave for another 3 mins. Turn off lock car with remote, unlock and start car. Test all is working as it should.

Report back[emoji4]

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Obviously at the tail end of the discussion ,but what I was going to suggest was to take sender connectors off at the thermo housing.Usually the fan switches on on...and stays on.Then replace the offending sender.Has happened on a few of the 406 s and Mi I's we have had.No idea if works with 07's.
 
Well that did not work, installed the NEW engine fuse box (cost $457.00) and still the fan will not activated with a temperature of over 116C. I will try what Frenchiemech34 and Pekay49 suggest; disconnect the sensor and see if the fan kicks in. Wish me luck. I will update result soon.
 
Flippen heck..more black magic in these 407's than anyone imagined.

Something not quite right with a sensor sending the correct response or wiring loose/corroded? ?

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Back again folks. where do I start? Disconnected the connection to the engine temperature sensor, turned on the ignition, nothing, narda, zilch. Started the engine with A/C off and the engine fan took off at top speed. Went for a drive and when the temperature reach 90 degrees, I pulled over and watched the gauge, it crept up a little but seemed to stabilise. Drove home and the temperature had gone to about 106 degrees even with the fan still going full speed, Hooked up my scanner (engine running) and received the 6 fault code listed below. Turn the engine off and the fan went from very high to A/C speed and it kept going until I disconnected the battery but when I reconnected the battery the fan stayed off, even when I turn the ignition on but when I started the engine the fan hit top speed until I turned the engine off, and the fan kept going at A/C speed until I disconnected the battery, and stayed off with battery reconnected.
P0102 Mass or volume air flow circuit range/performance problem. P0113 Intake air temperature circuit high input. SID801/2/3 intake air temperature signal. Short circuit to positive or open circuit. MM48P- Inlet air thermistor. Short circuit or open circuit. P0118 Engine coolant Temperature circuit high input. ME7.4.4- Coolant thermistor. Short circuit to positive or open circuit. SID802- Coolant Temperature signal. open circuit or short circuit to positive. S2000 PM1- Engine coolant temperature sensor signal. Short circuit to positive or open circuit. P1193 EGR Drive Overcurrent. U1118 SID 803- (407) Receiving Fault. Multiplexing. No BSI or A/C communication?? (with ECM). MM6LP- Dialogue with BSI. No communication with the BSI. U2001 SID 803 Multiplexing. Remotely controlled triggering information not coherent- (CAN).
Any suggestions !!!!!!!!
 
More info

Deleted the fault codes and re-read the faults all but 3 gone the remanning ones are P0102 - P0118 - P0113.
 
407 cooling fan doesn't have external resistors like the 406 does. The resistor is built inside the fan. It has only one relay.

What if the water pump is dead has affected the head gasket? The overheating issue may not be electrical.

Remove the bleed cover on heater matrix hose, start the car, open the bonnet, have someone accelerate the car and release the throttle. If the water pump is good, coolant/water will gush out from that hole as soon as you stop accelerating or when you take your foot off the throttle pedal. If nothing comes out, the water pump is bad.

Check/touch if the lower radiator hose is hot or cold when temperature reaches 100 degree Celsius. If it stays cold while the upper is very hot, you have 2 likely issues: dead water pump or thermostat.

Don't rule out the head gasket as well, for a weak one can beat up too quickly.

Your engine ECU controls your fan (at least, I am sure of 407 with petrol engines). If truly is electrical issue, then the problem is between the engine issue and the fan (including the connections between both).

Ikenna351, Lion King - Monk.
 
Thanks Ikenna351 I have replaced the water pump when I changed the timing belt about 6 months ago so i think that should be OK. I have also replaced the thermostat housing but I used the old engine temperature sensor. So this weekend i will replace that and see what happens. I also have a new fan relay so if the sensor does not fix the problem I will replace the relay. I just found out that the A/C is not kicking in when switched on, I'll soon find out one way or the other.
 
The Fixer said:
Thanks Ikenna351 I have replaced the water pump when I changed the timing belt about 6 months ago so i think that should be OK. I have also replaced the thermostat housing but I used the old engine temperature sensor. So this weekend i will replace that and see what happens. I also have a new fan relay so if the sensor does not fix the problem I will replace the relay. I just found out that the A/C is not kicking in when switched on, I'll soon find out one way or the other.
Click to expand...


Ok.

But does 407 have independent fan resistor? I have never seen one in 407.

Ikenna351, Lion King - Monk.
 
I don't know if there is an indepedant fan resistor. Replaced both Engine temperature sensor and the fan relay. A/C still not working and the engine fan goes into high speed when I start the engine (even when cold 1st thing in the morning) and when I switch the ignition off straight away the fan goes into low speed for about 5 minutes then stops. When I drive about 10klm the temperature gauge reads 106 degrees and hovers there even with the engine fan going at high revs, my normal reading has been 90 degrees. Somebody must know or had similar problem, HELP it's driving me crazy.
 
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