407 hdi Engine Overheating

The Fixer

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Jun 19, 2012
Messages
192
Location
Port Macquarie
Can anyone suggest a fix for my problem.I have a 2005 407 HDi 2.0 4 speed Auto. I had a small leek from water reservoir and drained the coolant to repaired same, refilled with coolant and now the radiator fan will not come on when the temperature is 90 degrees, even when the engine temperature reaches 106 degrees. My first thought was an air bubble so I refilled with coolant another 2 times, no luck. Took the car to Nat Rad radiator specialists and they pressure tested the system and assured me that there were no air pockets and the system check out OK. Driving home temperature goes to 106 degrees. My next thought was that the temperature sensor had failed or thermostat had stopped opening, so I bought a new thermostat housing with a new temperature sensor checked both thermostat and sensor and they were both working fine, I installed unit; the damn thing is still overheating and the fan still will not come on due to engine temperature but the fan comes on when I engage the Air-Condition and the engine temperature does NOT come down!!Help
 
Did you use the bleed nipples


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
I'm guessing one of the 2 fan soeed control resistors in front of the radiator has gone west?
Check the wiring behind the plastic cover in front on the radiator.
The front bumper will need to come off.

Yes the cooling fan comes on when the AC is on but this bypasses the resistors (I think)
The only other place to check is that there isn't a blown fuse in the engine bay fuse box.

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Thanks Dimistyle, I was kind of hoping that it wasn't a fan control resistors. I have checked the fuses in the engine bay but only the ones on top, is the one I need to check under the top ones??
 
Thanks Dimistyle, I was kind of hoping that it wasn't a fan control resistors. I have checked the fuses in the engine bay but only the ones on top, is the one I need to check under the top ones??
Have a look in the owners manual for fuse allocation, it won't be a maxi fuse.
From memory there is also a relay behind the front cover in front of the radiator.
This happened to one of our C5s ended up being the actual fan not working at low speed and then stopped working all together even with AC on.
Replace with an off the shelf aftermarket unit, 12" or 14" depending on current size.

Bite the bullet and take the front bumper off so you can test the fan operation.

If anyone knows another method chime in.

Dimi

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Well I took the Bumper off, brought a new relay, fitted that and still the fan will not come on when the temperature is over 100 degrees.
What does happen with the ignition and a/c on the fan turns itself on at about one third of when its on for engine temperature. I can get the fan up to full speed only when the ignition is OFF and a manually press the contact in the relay. Anyone have any other ideas as to what the problem could be???
 
Did you check/ test the 2 resistors sets next to the fan?

Im still thinking low speed fan mot kicking in.

Will need a circuit diagram to see how the 407 fan unit is controlled.

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Ideally you should connect it to a diagnostic tool. This will tell you what electronic faults you have. There are two resistors next to the fans, a low and a high speed one. The diag will tell you if either or both are faulty or alternatively if the fan is buggered. You need to use the independent activation to see if the fan comes on and this will eliminate whether the fan works or not.
I would recommend taking it to an expert if there's one handy as although the cost might seem high it will save throwing unneeded parts at it and making guesses. Or get a tool and check yourself. However I have found as a novice in this area that though I could diagnose a few things eventually I had to get the boys who know all about it to do the final thing.
My slow speed resistor packed up and I got a cheap one on ebay and this failed fairly quickly. The other thing I had wrong was the crank sensor where I wrongly assumed it was the cam sensor.
From Port Macquarie it could even be worth going to Coles in Lismore but not if it's overheating that much, then you'd need to truck it.
You could probably do highway speeds if it's not a really hot day.
The Delphi tool I have would probably point you in the right direction. It was only$70.
Good luck.
 
I drove Carlo5 from Brisbane to Sunshine coast with no fan working.

Highway speed ran cool for the middle of summer.

Used Lexia not a single error code but worked out the fan would not turn on with AC on so burnt out fan.

I have a write up on how to replace a dead on on AF.

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The low speed fan comes on when the A/C is turned on, the engine cooling (fan) should kick in at around 90 degrees but for some reason it wont. I can only find one relay switch, which I have replaced with a genuine relay from Peugeot dealer, the old relay works exactly like the new one so I can rule that out as the cause. Took the fan out checked the wiring all seems OK. I cannot believe this all started with me fixing a minor leak from the expansion tank, all I did was drain the coolant fix the leak with some plumbers tape and refilled with coolant. Is there more than one relay all I found was one plus two wire connectors!!
 
The low speed fan comes on when the A/C is turned on, the engine cooling (fan) should kick in at around 90 degrees but for some reason it wont. I can only find one relay switch, which I have replaced with a genuine relay from Peugeot dealer, the old relay works exactly like the new one so I can rule that out as the cause. Took the fan out checked the wiring all seems OK. I cannot believe this all started with me fixing a minor leak from the expansion tank, all I did was drain the coolant fix the leak with some plumbers tape and refilled with coolant. Is there more than one relay all I found was one plus two wire connectors!!
Ok maybe start what you touched 1st and check the coolant level switch has not been damaged or not fully plugged in.

You are correct in saying it seems strange

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I do not know where the coolant level switch is, I cannot find any electrical switch near the expansion tank!
Some 407s dont have one. The ones that do is directly in the top of the bottle, near the cap
 
Thanks to for all your help. Have taken the new temperature out and tests confirm that both new and old are working ohms readings are both very similar, ie range cold to hot (used a hair drier). I am going to use the old temperature sensor, so that all the parts are as they where prior to the problem occurring. I will still tinker with it, have an booking for Peugeot dealership for electrical checks, 28th Aug 19
I will advise of the outcome.
 
U van activate fan module and speeds from scan tool to verify they work. Check coolant temp sensor. Note these cars can be hard to bleed air out of. A power bleeder is recommended. Uses compressed air and vacuum. Can buy on eBay cheap. Look for vacuum bleeder for Cooling system. Guaranteed no air locks and a must for euro cars.


Fan motors often fail.

Unplugging the coolant temp sensor will also put fans on high speed as a fail safe so u can check this too.
 
Well I am now $375.00 lighter and still the fan wont work, fitted a new relay and had the tech guys at John patrick motors have the car all day Wed 28th, recieved a call from them to say that they "believe" the problem is the Engine Fuse Box, part No. 6500 CG and guess what they don't make them anymore. So I go online and can buy a new one still in the box the reason I will be buying a new one is that a used one may be defective also. The best price I have found is $420.00 AUD plus freight god knows what that will be?? So hopefully I will be able to getr back to you all, when I install the fuse box.

Again thanks everyone for your input.
 
Well I am now $375.00 lighter and still the fan wont work, fitted a new relay and had the tech guys at John patrick motors have the car all day Wed 28th, recieved a call from them to say that they "believe" the problem is the Engine Fuse Box, part No. 6500 CG and guess what they don't make them anymore. So I go online and can buy a new one still in the box the reason I will be buying a new one is that a used one may be defective also. The best price I have found is $420.00 AUD plus freight god knows what that will be?? So hopefully I will be able to getr back to you all, when I install the fuse box.

Again thanks everyone for your input.
Good, the most likely option is the BSM (engine bay fuse box.)


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Canayone advise me if the replacement needs to be done by Peugeot Tech or can I do it myself, any and all tips welcome.
 
Yes it’s a diy job no coding needed a 13mm socket and screwdriver is all that’s required.


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
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