407 Brake Pad warning

husky430

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Feb 15, 2014
Messages
40
Location
Beerburrum
Bon jour fellow Froggers, been a while since I've posted and thats probably because alls been well with our beloved 407 Pug. Today tho got the warning about the brake pads. Doesn't say whether its front or rear pads, but I'm guessing it's the front pads as I did the rears a couple of years back. They were a bit of pain due to having to wind the pistons back in, not like all the previous ones I've done where you can just use a G clamp to squeeze the pistons back in. I didn't get the proper tool and used some generic thing off eBay but could only get one side done and ended up taking it to the dealers to get reamed.
So my questions are, for any of you more knowledge about all things Peugeot, 1. can you tell whether it's front or rear pads from the alerts on the dash and 2. if it's the front do they have the same 'screw in' type pistons that the rear have? Would love to be able to do it myself, cheers in advance, Steve
 
The front suspension is similar to the Citroen C5, except for the springs out of sight on the upper part, and there has been a write-up here in the Cit forum.

The front pads have a wire embedded that earths onto the disc when the pads are near gone. That is the source of the warning.

Replacement is simple and you have no need to wind back a handbrake piston. They just push back, though you may find a clamp useful. Check you have the right spanners to swing up the calipers. Watch the level of fluid in the reservoir when the pistons go back in.
 
Thanks for that and that's excellent news, will give it a go asap, get some pads from the local auto store tomorrow and get stuck in Seasink, very much appreciated, cheers Steve
 
It will definitely be the fronts as there is no warning on the rear pads . I did mine just recently and they are quite simple , just pushed them back with a clamp gently . As was suggested in my manual I did release the bleeder to expel the fluid rather than pushing it back up the line . This was recommended to reduce the chance of any brake pad material contaminating anything . Just nipped the bleeder up when the piston was all the way back . Good luck , Keith
 

But don’t follow those videos too closely... Do use a torque wrench, don’t put rusty and dirty bolts back in without cleaning the threads and generally don’t be a sloppy hack like that guy.

It’s also unlikely you want to replace the pads on their own - the rotor is just as cheap and will likely want replacement as well.

Suspension and brake work will kill you if you get it wrong and/or don’t treat the machinery with respect.


Sent from my iPhone using aussiefrogs
 
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The video is essentially correct but NEVER use the old bolts . The new pads should come with new bolts . They will have an encapsulation on them that acts like loctite when they are assembled . If you use old bolts they might come undone . Regards Keith
 
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