406 Sv wagon 1998 speedo control unit (part no: 1929.SJ) Bitron unit looks like?

He means the odometer readings would be wrong. If the sender from the gearbox is faulty then both the speedometer and the odometer would not be functioning correctly.
Thanks so much. In that case, I would suspect the transducer on the gearbox. Why? Because when the speedometer stops working, the trip meter, odometer and mpg check on the multi function display screen will stop working as well. Am not sure, but I think its also affecting the variable power steering when the car is stationary (not as light as it should be). My problem is going under the engine bay to get to the transducer. Just too lazy to craw under the car now. Anyway, will keep you guys updated.
 
"If the sender from the gearbox is faulty then both the speedometer and the odometer would not be functioning correctly."
That's a good thought, both mine don't work and I have been looking at the Biton unit as the problem, even got a s/h one yesterday off a wrecker's car. I took the gearbox sender out, after i finally found where it is, and took it to a real Pug service shop (Rex Gorrell, Geelong) and asked them to tell me if it was working properly, they said it was except some oil in the contact pins recess might stop it working.
Got it home and put the drill on one end and voltmeter on the pins and got no voltage output and it seems to be leaking oil through the bottom down the shaft, seems stuffed i reckon.
Anothe niggling thing i fixed was the broken spring on the gear shift lever, all it does is apply pressure to the left side, mine had become floppy, got one from the wrecker, its not available by itself from dealer, see pic for the broken bit, but had to remove the surround box and take out the bolt through the bottom of the lever and do a lot of pulling/twisting to lock the bottom right angle kink into the retaining hole.
So lights and lever fixed, time to put console back together.
speedo-gbox-sender_1549.JPG
gear-lever-spring_1546.jpg
 
Whne the speedo interface failed on my D8 406 coupe, the speedo stopped but the odometer kept going. Most annoying was the speed-sinsitive power steering thought the car was parked so was fingertip light at all speeds, not nice at all! A new one was telephone numbers from the dealers. I suggested they keep it, and for the grand sum of 25.00 pounds including airmail I got a good used one from Ade, the 406 wrecker who can be found on the UK 406 coupe forum. It is the same part for coupes, sedans and Citroen Xantia. There is a great "How to" guide on there as to how to replace it. So simple a dumbarse like me could do it in under a minute.
 
Yesterday, i decided to pull out the transducer on mine. I did everything i could from under the car, but i couldnt reach the sensor. The only thing i managed to do was to pull out the connector and pushed it back in twice. There was no space to put my hand and loose or slack the screw holding the transducer on the gearbox. It was as if 406 with V6 engine transducers cant be removed while the gearbox is still in the engine bay. Meaning, the only to bring out the transducer is to bring down the gearbox.

Has anyone brought out the transducer on the gearbox in his D9 V6 without bringing down the gearbox? If yes, how?

Ikenna.
 
I could get to it with my right hand twisting up and around from the bottom, there might be a fabric protection cover over it.
Got the bolt out with a lot of fiddling but couldn't get it started back in the hole when re-fitting, so, i had a look down from the top now that i knew where it is and bingo, i was able to get my hand down there from the top and with a small ratchet and 11mm socket it was real easy. see the pic for where to look. its dark down there but you can see the wires to give you a clue.
Edit: did it again today getting one out of a wreckers car, the easiest way is to get an extension bar about 30cm long, 11mm socket on the end, using a 1/4 inch drive socket set/ratchet, then your hand is above the engine, pull the hoses aside, poke it down there with a torch in your other hand and bingo, only takes 5 minutes.
speedo_gbox_sender_location_1564b.jpg
Since it was stuffed i drilled out the 4 rivets to look inside, this is what you get. A mini dynamo i guess.
Mine was filled with oil, i think thats why it wasn't working, so cleaned and bolted it back together and replaced it the easy way, and it half worked, i was doing 40kph standing still and 100kph at about 40kph, so i need a new one, local dealer wants $200 haa haa!!
speedo_gbox-sender_1558w2.jpg
After cleaning i tested with voltmeter, i was getting a voltage rise with increasing speed, it seems to be AC voltage BTW, is that right?
BTW thanks for info and link on your thread, great help.
 
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Oh boy, i have opened a can of worms. I thought i better check the thermostat i fitted a while ago, there was a leak i think because ididn't change the 2 O ring gaskets, so in taking off the inlet manifold i was horrified to see all this oil in the well where the back spark plugs go.
The car has had an oil leak problem for ages which i never bothered to look at. It seemed sort of itermittent, sometimes oil on the ground under the car, sometimes not. Seeing this oil i tried to soak it up with cloth, as soon as i got some out it would fill up again, until after a good while no more oil flowed into the well areas. Hmmmm... i took off the cam cover, the lower bolts ,(front cover, rear bolts, the car is parked with nose higher than tail) did not seem very tight and the gasket goo under the cover looked very suspect also. see pics, So i am hoping the oil leak is just from the cam cover and not more serious....
what does anyone think?
Another view of the speedo sensor on the gearbox from above, now the manifold is removed.
speedo_sensor_above2_1583.jpg
The oil filled spark plug well area, and suspect cover.
oil_in_sparkplug_cavity_1571.jpg
front_cam_cover_1576.jpg
Some notes on getting into the climate control LCD panel.
406_interior_1555b.jpg
Pheww.. and the timing belt is next after the above problems are fixed.
 
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Leaking cam covers are pretty common on the pug V6. Unfortunately, the cam "boxes" can also leak.

See this thread: ES9J4
 
thanks for that SLC206, i bumped that thread with my questions.
its a bit short on actual "how to", i am a virgin in this engine and no expert at all.
--------------------------------
this is waht i posted on that thread............................
Bump....
I want to reseal the cam boxes and covers myself, serious leaking in the rear ones.
I am currently stripping off stuff to possibly change the timing belt.
I have seen a good video of how to lock things in place before taking off the belt, but i am not sure about re-tensioning a new belt.
And how do you remove the camshafts to re-seal the boxes and keep everything in its right place?
What type of gasket goo/silicone is best to seal the boxes and covers?
I don't have a Haynes book, i think i might need one, are they worth getting for the V6 engine?
I am terrified of getting the timing wrong when i put it all back together.
Thanks in advance.
 
Stuck Water Pump and phantom elec plug

I am making progress with all the stuff i have to do.
Cam boxes and covers removed, cleaned and re-fitted.
Thermostat housing removed cleaned and re-fitted, new O-rings.
Timing belt etc is off, now i find the water pump is sealed in with blue gasket goo and its very very tight.
Hammering and chiseling hasn't budged it.
Any clues on how to get it out? Its like it needs a puller, but there's no room/way to fit one.
2. Pic of below the air filter area, i have a stray electric connector, can't see anything to plug it into.
the white one in the bottom centre of the pic.
peugeot_406SV_240w22.jpg
I will add other pics and stuff of waht i have done later, in case its of interest to other folks.
 
Setting Timing Belt Tension and more

I have fitted a new timing belt but i don't have the special tool for measuring SEEM units.
Can you tell by looking or feeling if the tension is about right?
I marked the position of the adjusting bolt with the old belt and set it there with the new belt,
but it seemed a bit slack, i turned the adjusting bolt in about 6-8mm more and it seemed nice and tight.
IMG_1641-02.jpgIMG_1668w.jpg
Pic shows how much the bolt is wound in.
IMG_1669w.jpg
How it looks.
 
New Water pump

Before the belt I managed to remve the old water pump by using a hammer and chisel to prise it out, not pretty but there was so much goo holding it in it was very stuck.
IMG_1642w.jpgIMG_1645w2.jpg
IMG_1651w.jpg
The old and new belts.
IMG_1656w2b.jpg
The old belt looks pretty good, and since the water pump had been worked on I am thinking the belt has been replaced before (car has done about 150,000km). Anyhow since I had bought a new belt I changed it.
 
Cam boxes

Going backwards. The cam boxes were quite stuck down so i carefully prised them up to release them from the gasket goo.
peugeot_406SV_206w2.jpg
How the cams looked when i removed the boxes (rear bank).
peugeot_406SV_209w.jpg
The small groove in the head top for a tiny amount of gasket goo.
peugeot_406SV_214w.jpg
I was removing and refitting the thermostat pipes as well. this is the block with the pipes removed.
peugeot_406SV_220w2.jpg
Hate those brittle hard plastic air hoses that break. I have to find some hose to slip over them to join them back together.
 
Timing belt tensioning tool

This is from info Demmaru kindly sent me. I don't know what it does exactly, you clip the thing on the belt and read SEEM units like a voltmeter or something. Later model tensioners do not require this weird tool.
timing-belt-tension-tool2.jpg
 
Been searching the net for tensioning info. The "No-Tool" method seems to be to hold the belt with thumb and forefinger at the middle of its longest span and twist it, it should twist almost to 90 degrees they say.
hmmmmmm.......
Found another description for a 1.9D engine which has a lot of similarities.
I noted this bit - "Turn camshaft sprocket fully clockwise in slotted holes." That is before doing the tension, because when you do the tension the belt will be pulled around anti-clockwise a bit.
Here is all of that text in case it helps someone.
----------------------------------------------------
http://www.justanswer.com/peugeot/6a06q-peugeot-expert-want-replace-timing-belt-peugeot.html

Special Tools

Flywheel locking tool - Peugeot No.(-).0188-F.
206/306/Expert: Flywheel timing pin - Peugeot No.(-).0188-D.
Partner: Flywheel timing pin - Peugeot No.(-).0188-D/0153N.
Injection pump locking pin - Peugeot No.(-).0188-H.
1 bolt - M8 x 1,25 mm x 80 mm.
Timing belt retaining clip - Peugeot No.(-).0188-K.
Tensioning tool - Peugeot No.(-).0188-J/J1.
Tension gauge - SEEM C.Tronic 105.5.

Written instructions to go with the above are as follows :

Raise and support front of vehicle.
Disconnect and seal off fuel pipes.
Remove:
Engine upper cover.
RH front wheel.
RH splash guard.
Auxiliary drive belt.
Auxiliary drive belt tensioner pulley.
Flywheel housing lower cover.
Lock flywheel. Use tool No.(-).0188-F.
Remove:
Crankshaft pulley bolts Fig.11567.1.
Crankshaft pulley Fig.11567.2.
Flywheel locking tool.
Reposition:
Coolant hose from expansion tank.
Engine control module (ECM). DO NOT disconnect harness multi-plug.

Protect radiator from damage with cardboard.
Support engine.
Remove:
RH engine mounting and bracket.
Timing belt covers Fig.11567.3, Fig.11567.4 & Fig.11567.5.
Turn crankshaft clockwise to setting position.
Insert timing pin in flywheel Fig.11567.6. Tool No.(-).0188-D/0153N.
Insert M8 x 1,25 mm x 80 mm bolt in camshaft sprocket Fig.11567.7.
Insert locking pin in injection pump Fig.11567.8. Tool No.(-).0188-H.
Slacken tensioner bolt Fig.11567.9.
Turn tensioner pulley clockwise away from belt. Use tool No.(-).0188-J/J1.
Lightly tighten tensioner bolt Fig.11567.9.
Remove timing belt.



Installation

Ensure timing pin and locking pin located correctly Fig.11567.6 & Fig.11567.8.
Ensure camshaft sprocket locked with bolt Fig.11567.7.
Slacken camshaft sprocket bolts Fig.11567.10. Tighten bolts finger tight, then slacken 1/6 turn.
Turn camshaft sprocket fully clockwise in slotted holes.
Slacken injection pump sprocket bolts Fig.11567.11. Tighten bolts finger tight, then slacken 1/6 turn.
Turn injection pump sprocket fully clockwise in slotted holes.NOTE: Sprockets should turn with slight resistance.
Fit timing belt to crankshaft sprocket.
Secure belt to crankshaft sprocket with retaining clip. Tool No.(-).0188-K Fig.11567.12.
Fit timing belt in anti-clockwise direction. Ensure belt is taut between sprockets.
Lay belt on injection pump sprocket teeth. Engage belt teeth by turning sprocket slightly anti-clockwise.
Lay belt on camshaft sprocket teeth. Engage belt teeth by turning sprocket slightly anti-clockwise.NOTE: Angular movement of sprockets must not be more than one tooth space Fig.11567.13.
Fit timing belt to water pump sprocket and tensioner pulley.
Slacken tensioner bolt Fig.11567.9.
Turn tensioner pulley anti-clockwise to temporarily tension belt. Use tool No.(-).0188-J/J1.
Lightly tighten tensioner bolt Fig.11567.9. Tightening torque: 10 Nm.
Remove retaining clip Fig.11567.12.
Attach tension gauge to belt at Fig.11567.14. Tool No.SEEM C-Tronic 105.5.
Turn tensioner pulley anti-clockwise until tension gauge indicates 106±2 SEEM units.
Tighten tensioner bolt Fig.11567.9. Tightening torque: 18 Nm.
Remove tension gauge Fig.11567.14.
Ensure bolts not at end of slotted holes in sprockets Fig.11567.15.
If necessary: Repeat installation procedure.
Tighten camshaft and injection pump sprocket bolts Fig.11567.10 & Fig.11567.11. Tightening torque: 23-25 Nm.
Remove timing pin and locking pin Fig.11567.6 & Fig.11567.8.
Remove locking bolt from camshaft sprocket Fig.11567.7.
Turn crankshaft eight turns clockwise to setting position.NOTE: DO NOT allow crankshaft to turn anti-clockwise.
Insert timing pin and locking pin Fig.11567.6 & Fig.11567.8.
Insert locking bolt in camshaft sprocket Fig.11567.7.
Slacken camshaft sprocket bolts Fig.11567.10.
Slacken injection pump sprocket bolts Fig.11567.11.
Slacken tensioner bolt to release tension on belt Fig.11567.9.
Attach tension gauge to belt at Fig.11567.14.
Turn tensioner pulley anti-clockwise until tension gauge indicates 42±2 SEEM units.
Hold tensioner pulley in position. Tighten tensioner bolt Fig.11567.9. Tightening torque: 18 Nm.
Tighten camshaft and injection pump sprocket bolts Fig.11567.10 & Fig.11567.11. Tightening torque: 23-25 Nm.
Remove tension gauge Fig.11567.14.
Remove timing pin and locking pin Fig.11567.6 & Fig.11567.8.
Remove locking bolt from camshaft sprocket Fig.11567.7.
Turn crankshaft two turns clockwise to setting position.NOTE: DO NOT allow crankshaft to turn anti-clockwise.
Check belt tension. Attach tension gauge to belt at Fig.11567.14.
Tension gauge should indicate the following:
206/306/Expert: 38-42 SEEM units.
Partner: 38-51 SEEM units.
If not: Repeat tensioning procedure.
Remove tension gauge Fig.11567.14.
Remove timing pin and locking pin Fig.11567.6 & Fig.11567.8.
Remove locking bolt from camshaft sprocket Fig.11567.7.
Turn crankshaft two turns clockwise to setting position.
Insert timing pin in flywheel Fig.11567.6.
Ensure locking bolt can be inserted easily in camshaft sprocket Fig.11567.7.
Ensure locking pin can be inserted easily in injection pump sprocket Fig.11567.8.
Remove flywheel timing pin Fig.11567.6.
Install components in reverse order of removal.
Tighten crankshaft pulley bolts Fig.11567.1. Tightening torque: 10 Nm.



( you can ignore the ref's to "fig *** in blue in the instructs above, the all just refer to the pic I have given you ...Study it all and you will get the idea . Ignore the large triangular Images too - they are nothing)

Im very pleased to have helped you -


Please click the "Accept button" for me now - Thank You ...

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Hmm! Your old timing belt appears to look newer than the new belt. Lol! Don't mind me! Please, how did you remove the crankshaft pulley? How did you slack the four 13mm bolts on the pulley?
 
With the bolt inserted to hold the cranlshaft I just used a socket on a long arm ratchet.
Are yours stuck?
Well, I wouldn't know if mine is stuck or not. But I tried to slack the 13mm bolts, without locking the pulley, but they wouldn't slack and the pulley wouldn't stop rotating. Lol! Unlike the PAS pump pulley bolts that easily slacked without locking it. So, my only problem then was how to stop the crankshaft pulley from rotating when trying to slack the bolts with socket. Are you saying if insert a bolt on that small hole on the crankshaft pulley, it will lock the pulley and wont damage the pulley when applied pressure with socket on the pulley? Because I plan to change the belt this weekend, if I have the chance. So I would like to know which is the safest method of locking the crankshaft pulley while slacking the 13mm bolts on it. Inserting bolt on the pulley or engaging the 5th gear and applying brake?
 
Harmonic balancer bolts removal

sorry, i will try to be more clear. Lock the crankshaft with a 21mm socket and bar on the centre bolt, tie the end of the bar to the car or just try to hold it in one hand resisiting the turn while your 13mm socket is undoing the bolts. Be careful with these 4 bolts, a long ratchet arm with slow pressure is best, they can strip or break which can be a real pain. I had one bolt snap its head off when putting them back in, luckily it wasn't in tight and i could get it out with a drill bit and some poking. Replace them with new ones if you have some. I found a good how-to change the belt at http://www.trackandrace.com/Workshop/ I found getting all the camshaft locking holes lined up to be tricky with the new belt fitted, one is slightly off, that how-to says you can loosen the 4 pinion holding bolts and turn the camshaft a bit to line up the hole with the slot, that is if the distance is less than one notch on the belt, if its off by quite a bit you have to remove the belt and turn the pinion one notch in the required direction. That guy stresses they need to be ''perfectly" aligned for correct engine timing. You do need something to hold the new belt on the crankshaft pinion while fitting the rest of the belt, i didn't have the circular clip special tool, i found a small woodworkers clamp that i could fit over it and clamp it on.
 

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