308 2.0 Hdi Starting Problem and Parasitic drain

dimistyle said:
I also suspect the cheap key RFID chip is not recognised each time and the original works as designed.
We have been using the original non button keys for months as original flip key buttons no longer function.
I have bought new case and internals to get the remote locking working once again but made sure the 2 original keys have stayed programmed as back up for this reason.
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That could well be dimistyle and thanks, it confirms my thoughts. I purchased the car with one working key (with the short slot - presumably the copy) and the other long slot bladed key in pieces. I then bought a cheap case on Ebay and transferred the electronics with a new battery and the 'long slot' blade to that. That's now the key which seems to work best.

Just thinking about it, we kept the broken key near or in the car until I repaired it and then kept it separate from the car. I now think that's when the starting trouble began- perhaps the original key is the only one which communicates with the immobiliser.

How am I going with this conjecture?

I rang a dealer and they said that it's likely that the locally cut key will fail at times especially if the original key is nowhere near the car. He mentioned that the local key would probably work if the original is in range. They can 'tune it in' apparently.
 
That is possibly the case as the original RFID may have been picked up by the ignition antenna. I'm sure you'll work out what's happening by keeping the keys apart. But hopefully you don't get stuck somewhere with the dud RFID unit?

Our 308 RD4 also continues to make the speakers crackle after the key is removed I've yet to bother and investigate as looking to swap to a RD45 unit.
 
dimistyle said:
That is possibly the case as the original RFID may have been picked up by the ignition antenna. I'm sure you'll work out what's happening by keeping the keys apart. But hopefully you don't get stuck somewhere with the dud RFID unit?

That's exactly what did happen :). My wife went to pick up grand-kids and could not restart. I did a pretty good hero rescue getting behind the wheel with the working RFID in my pocket and starting the car without any hesitation using the dud key.

I think that through these discussions we're getting close to resolving all the issues:
  1. Starting problem = 90% certain it's the microchip in one key which looks damaged.
  2. Misfiring = again, 90% it's the pressure reg.
  3. Parasitic leak = waiting on a replacement RD4. Peugeot advise that these are not troublesome.
Thanks for your help.
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Does a new fuel pressure regulator require adjusting? I noticed there is a wide slot on the back. pressure regulator.jpg
 
There was an update to non mp3 rd4s to stop the possibility of battery drain it was a recall but most not done correctly because it involved an update box and removing the radio.
 
dmccurtayne said:
There was an update to non mp3 rd4s to stop the possibility of battery drain it was a recall but most not done correctly because it involved an update box and removing the radio.
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dmccurtayne said:
No just unbolts put some paper on the torx socket to stop you dropping those screws when r and r’ing
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Thanks dmc, I'll post when I've changed the regulator. That's good info about the rd4 as well.
 
dmccurtayne said:
There was an update to non mp3 rd4s to stop the possibility of battery drain it was a recall but most not done correctly because it involved an update box and removing the radio.
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Did you mean the non-bluetooth RD4? All the RD4s I've seen (>10) had 'MP3' on the facia, top centre except one out of a Citroen, but it was described as 'MP3'.
 
The road test with the new regulator went well, to a point. For 4 kms urban, no issues but after I stirred it up in 2nd gear there was one misfire after changing up to 3rd at about 60 kph. Will see how it goes.
 
This is weird. We used the car normally for a week and a half, with just an occasional misfire. This morning, no start, normal cranking. Electric windows do not work either.
An hour later tried again, starts but runs for a second or two, several times then runs but no power. It feels just like it's starved of fuel and has air in system. Still no electric windows.
Another hour later it starts and drives normally, electric windows OK.
 
Windows not working while engine running. Try passanger switch as maybe your drivers switches are on the way out? I've replaced our already OR battery on the way put?
 
dimistyle said:
Windows not working while engine running. Try passanger switch as maybe your drivers switches are on the way out? I've replaced our already OR battery on the way put?
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Thanks dimistyle, the three other doors work fine now but they didn't work at all before. As to the driver's window, I can hear clicks inside the door for both one touch and inch functions. I'll check all that when we've solved the air/fuel thing.
 
By the look of that 600km fuel filter you changed my money is on your car having a bad dose of the dreaded fuel bug which will by now have the new filter looking like the one you changed. If you look at it and I'm right you have to make sure you kill that bug and if memory is right from when I had that problem there are many different strains of the critter. Am certain that with the RHR engine the delivery of fuel from the tank is not forced. It relies upon the suck of the pressure pump. With my car soon as I mentioned to a fuel supply manager the black debris on the filter he told me the problem. Good idea to keep away from servos that are in areas where minor flooding can occur.
 
kelpiebat said:
By the look of that 600km fuel filter you changed my money is on your car having a bad dose of the dreaded fuel bug which will by now have the new filter looking like the one you changed. If you look at it and I'm right you have to make sure you kill that bug and if memory is right from when I had that problem there are many different strains of the critter. Am certain that with the RHR engine the delivery of fuel from the tank is not forced. It relies upon the suck of the pressure pump. With my car soon as I mentioned to a fuel supply manager the black debris on the filter he told me the problem. Good idea to keep away from servos that are in areas where minor flooding can occur.
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Thanks kelpiebat, I'll get back to the car in a few weeks time. I did contact the 'servicer' and he did confirm that the fuel filter had NOT been changed at the last service. I suspected as much, from the mangled hexagon; it wasn't easy to get the lid off. Going by the records, the fuel filter may have been in there for almost 20,000 km.
 
Just got back to the vehicle, after standing for 5 weeks and clearing the fault codes it now runs without apparent problems. We'll give it another good test over the next week.
The windows work fine too (dimistyle)
Is it possible that an accumulated profusion of fault codes has affected other electronic functions?
Next job is the parasitic V drain. A replacement RD4 which should be registered to my VIN has arrived.
 
  1. My diesel specialist (Hervey Bay Diesel Service) cleared the fault codes and subsequently could not fault the vehicle performance. After that I had around 1000 kms of incident free motoring and then the misfiring started again, gradually. I went back to HBDS; the codes were P1507 (Speed limiter incoherent), P1671 (Cruise C incoherent), P0338 (Engine Speed signal incoherent), P0215 (Injection supply relay circuit open/short) and P1351 (Preheating Relay Circuit) [I don't think there is a preheating circuit].
    We might now drive 20kms without a problem and then a misfire which apart from the running out of fuel feeling, confuses the cruise and or speed limiter if either happens to be in use.
  2. I've changed the RD4 which involved soldering another antenna connection on the board and changing the fascia panel. It works well and seems to have fixed the parasite drain. As anticipated, this fix does not have any effect on the mis-firing issue.
  3. Just now, I'm changing the fuel filter housing and noticed that the water sensor did not seem to be torqued sufficiently (3.5 Nm), more like 1.5. Here's hoping!
  4. The old fuel filter had a 0.5m length of hose hanging off the bottom drain. There seems little point in that as you would only use this drain manually to drain off water and there is plenty of room to drain into a container. Is that correct?
 
sky-angel said:
...P0338 (Engine Speed signal incoherent)...
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Crank angle sensor failing? From what I know, they are cheap and easy to change, so maybe worth a shot.

The old fuel filter had a 0.5m length of hose hanging off the bottom drain. There seems little point in that as you would only use this drain manually to drain off water and there is plenty of room to drain into a container. Is that correct?
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It's also to drain the filter housing when changing the filter. The tube makes it easy to drain it into a container under the car, like an oil drain pan.
You should open the bleed nipple on top and the drain to allow the fuel to drain out before opening the filter housing. This also drains out any trapped gunk in the filter housing, so it doesn't end up in the new filter.
 
gromzx said:
Crank angle sensor failing? From what I know, they are cheap and easy to change, so maybe worth a shot.
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Hi gromzx, Do you happen to know where the crank angle sensor is located? One of the images on the internet shows it accessed from the right hand front wheel space but another has it near the battery. Looking for the easy way here.
 
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