I’m a mechanical fitter and have just spent 8 months living in Romania. While there I brought a 08’ Peugeot 307 SW as an import from Germany. This was my first diesel and it threw up some challenges along the way. I’ve read countless threads (many thanks) and would like to share my 2 small wins. Like many have said before, a diagnostic tool was the turning point in solving my problems
Surge/hesitation
Car had a rough idle, hesitation from low rpm and surging around 1600-1800 rpm. In addition when pushed real hard uphill ‘engine’ light would display but clear after a few days of normal driving.
Replaced air, fuel filters - no change.
EGR removed/cleaned - no change.
Fuel pressure regulator removed – resistance in spec but no change.
New gearbox mount - no change
Independent garage MAF fault code - new MAF fitted but only a small improvement in idle.
Pipework from air filter to air doser - new pipe clamps fitted.
Vacuum circuit leak check - New turbo (3 port - brown) + air doser (2 port -black) valve fitted - can hear doser flap closing now.
Idle improved but car still runs like a bag of shite ➡ brought diagnostic tool
.
P1211 Fuel regulator over pressure. Fitted new regulator and cleared fault. Check plug latch, mine was stretched and didn’t ‘click’ into place. Car now runs very well & no more engine light.
Turbo Whistle
Car developed a ‘ whistle’ under hard acceleration in any gear.
Prior to taking to independent garage I checked the DPF loading and differential pressure across the cat/dpf.
Independent garage found leak between exhaust manifold and turbo but cancelled the repair as he couldn’t remove the front cross member bolts.... Retaining the cross member are 4 bolts, 2 front and 2 rear. The front bolts are retained by a rectangular captive T- nut (removable). It is held from rotating by a fork shaped plate but with time and corrosion this ‘fork’ cannot resist the torque required to undo. This results in both freely rotating within the chassis member and apparently it is a common problem in Peugeots and Renault’s here. With nothing to loose I began by cutting the heads off the front bolts ( E16 – M12 x 1.75 × 70L) and removed the sub frame. I then cut/drilled out the remaining protruding bolt either side of the T-nut. The T-nut can now be extracted through the small opening in the front of chassis rail.
Long story short I found the offending gasket and a fecked turbo oil filter! With the car back together (no spare bits) it runs like a dream.
The chassis bolts/ t-nuts, turbo oil filter had to be brought in from France which was a 7 day delay. Turbo gasket kits here are easily found.
Thank you everyone for all the help found here
Surge/hesitation
Car had a rough idle, hesitation from low rpm and surging around 1600-1800 rpm. In addition when pushed real hard uphill ‘engine’ light would display but clear after a few days of normal driving.
Replaced air, fuel filters - no change.
EGR removed/cleaned - no change.
Fuel pressure regulator removed – resistance in spec but no change.
New gearbox mount - no change
Independent garage MAF fault code - new MAF fitted but only a small improvement in idle.
Pipework from air filter to air doser - new pipe clamps fitted.
Vacuum circuit leak check - New turbo (3 port - brown) + air doser (2 port -black) valve fitted - can hear doser flap closing now.
Idle improved but car still runs like a bag of shite ➡ brought diagnostic tool
.P1211 Fuel regulator over pressure. Fitted new regulator and cleared fault. Check plug latch, mine was stretched and didn’t ‘click’ into place. Car now runs very well & no more engine light.
Turbo Whistle
Car developed a ‘ whistle’ under hard acceleration in any gear.
Prior to taking to independent garage I checked the DPF loading and differential pressure across the cat/dpf.
Independent garage found leak between exhaust manifold and turbo but cancelled the repair as he couldn’t remove the front cross member bolts.... Retaining the cross member are 4 bolts, 2 front and 2 rear. The front bolts are retained by a rectangular captive T- nut (removable). It is held from rotating by a fork shaped plate but with time and corrosion this ‘fork’ cannot resist the torque required to undo. This results in both freely rotating within the chassis member and apparently it is a common problem in Peugeots and Renault’s here. With nothing to loose I began by cutting the heads off the front bolts ( E16 – M12 x 1.75 × 70L) and removed the sub frame. I then cut/drilled out the remaining protruding bolt either side of the T-nut. The T-nut can now be extracted through the small opening in the front of chassis rail.
Long story short I found the offending gasket and a fecked turbo oil filter! With the car back together (no spare bits) it runs like a dream.
The chassis bolts/ t-nuts, turbo oil filter had to be brought in from France which was a 7 day delay. Turbo gasket kits here are easily found.
Thank you everyone for all the help found here
