307 2.0 HDI T6 auto ATF oil change?

This should be made a sticky! For those who want to keep their auto transmission in good condition. Do not think for a minute that it is filled for life as Peugeot say it is, no ATF lasts over 100km. And in my case I believe it should have been chaged at more like 50-70km.

OK just changed the atf in my 100,000km 307 2007 AM6 transmission, and it is soooo smooth now.
I used Toyota T-1V which is JWS3309 complied. I needed 8lts to do two flushes. As Ado said the two hoses from the radiator do not have ATF in them as they are coolant hose to the heat exchanger on the AM6.

1: Car has to be level

2: Undo the centre level torx T40 plug inside the 17mm allen key drain plug first catching all oil about 1lt

3: Then undo the 17mm and catch the rest, about 2.5lts.

4: Re insert both plugs, then undo the T55 under the airbox and fill with exactly what came out.

4: Go for a 1/2hr drive and do then wait for it to cool 2hrs or so and do same all over again.

My oil was black and smelt burnt nothing like the smell of the new ATF. The big 17mm drain plug is very tight as is the T55 fill plug so have some extensions on hand.
This cost me $84 for 8lts of Toyota T-1V and a couple of hours of time, every one I rang that knew this transmission wanted $350-$450 to do the job and I wonder if they would have got the right ATF and if they would have done a double flush.

Cheers George
 
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If the oil specs are JWS 3309, this nulon oil specs state that it complies with those standards. I run Nulon Synthetic in all my cars and have this stuff on my shelf. Am I a chance of using it. Think it was $70ish for 5 ltrs
 
My mechanic who services pugs and citroens recommends against this practice. As the factory document said, if the oil is discoloured the gearbox is stuffed.
 
112,000km on our late T6 307, might do this myself..... No issues with the box or shift quality, but it's not right to leave fluids this long........
 
pdjones said:
My mechanic who services pugs and citroens recommends against this practice. As the factory document said, if the oil is discoloured the gearbox is stuffed.
Click to expand...

I believe it should be done around 80k to 100k kilometres to stop the auto from becoming stuffed, as the fluid will get dirtier the longer it's left. Mine has now got 160k on it, and still smooth as ever, I will if I still have the car, do it again this time next year.
Maybe your mechanic sees a nice $3-4K tranny rebuild/replacement for himself in the future.

Cheers George
 
My 308 HDi [which has done 85km] has an AM6 box

a few times lately it has not changed from 5 to 6 when in auto, when I change to 'manual' it shows as in M5 and I simply manually shift to M6 and it changes smoothly

Is this a sensor issue of some type or possibly related to ATF ?
 
It's an adaptive box. If I've been driving around the suburbs it rarely goes above 5th. It should change up if your speed is fast enough. Try an 80kph or more drive and see if it changes.
 
seasink said:
It's an adaptive box. If I've been driving around the suburbs it rarely goes above 5th. It should change up if your speed is fast enough. Try an 80kph or more drive and see if it changes.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply. This was occurring on the open road at 80km+, next time it occurs I will put my foot down and see if it changes
 
I changed the ATF today in my 2007 307 HDI with an AM6. 8 litres of T-IV cost $105 from a Toyota dealer and the job itself was one of the easiest things I've ever done on a car. Jacking and de-jacking was the most time consuming part of the process. At 86,000kms the fluid was already black.

I've done a single flush today and plan on doing a second a couple of days from now. The car doesn't seem to drive any differently but it never had any problems in the first place as this was an entirely preventative measure.

Thanks go to George for the DIY guide.
 
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Well all this trans talk has left me quite flushed.
But I'm with addo when he said quote, 'Some of us tire readily of the arguments and procrastination that needlessly disrupt useful intercourse' Now when I was young I quite enjoyed useful intercourse.
But now-a-days useless procrastination is as far as I can get.
 
georgehifi said:
This should be made a sticky! For those who want to keep their auto transmission in good condition. Do not think for a minute that it is filled for life as Peugeot say it is, no ATF lasts over 100km. And in my case I believe it should have been chaged at more like 50-70km.

OK just changed the atf in my 100,000km 307 2007 AM6 transmission, and it is soooo smooth now.
I used Toyota T-1V which is JWS3309 complied. I needed 8lts to do two flushes. As Ado said the two hoses from the radiator do not have ATF in them as they are coolant hose to the heat exchanger on the AM6.

1: Car has to be level

2: Undo the centre level torx T40 plug inside the 17mm allen key drain plug first catching all oil about 1lt

3: Then undo the 17mm and catch the rest, about 2.5lts.

4: Re insert both plugs, then undo the T55 under the airbox and fill with exactly what came out.

4: Go for a 1/2hr drive and do then wait for it to cool 2hrs or so and do same all over again.

My oil was black and smelt burnt nothing like the smell of the new ATF. The big 17mm drain plug is very tight as is the T55 fill plug so have some extensions on hand.
This cost me $84 for 8lts of Toyota T-1V and a couple of hours of time, every one I rang that knew this transmission wanted $350-$450 to do the job and I wonder if they would have got the right ATF and if they would have done a double flush.

Cheers George
Click to expand...
Thanks George, I did this but with compatible Castrol oil, however I am a little concerned may not have been 100% accurate with what went back in. Does it need to be an exact amount of oil in the box and if so is there a guide you know of that I can follow thanks

Sent from my Pixel using aussiefrogs mobile app
 
Driving my 307 HDi back from an inspection, the gears started to slip. Stopped the car immediately (lucky i was close to destination) and rolled it. There was a distinct buzzing noise. I let it cool several hours later it started and drove fine. Im thinking it overheated.

Saw this thread and others and did a flush with 4L of Nulon atf (which i believe is equivalent to aw-1 or jws3309). The colour was really brown.

Also, originally when i got the car i performed a flush. However, I didnt follow the procedure found here (very thorough). It might have been slightly overfilled.

Moving a week later, I flushed it two more times so now 8L of oil has gone through. It still seems very dark. I assumed it would be reddish by now.

Is there a way to really flush the gbox? I was thinking to add fluid whilst draining fluid at the same time with the car jacked to get everything out. Similarly to how they flush tranny fluid using the inlet/outlet of radiator to gbox.

Any other ideas? I dont want to keep wasting Litres of oil. Although i dont feel comfortable driving it when its a dirty brown.

cheers,

melon
 
It's a Japanese design torque converter box- you can't drain it fully except on the bench. It is water cooled, with a cylindrical heat exchanger in front of the case, so the old-time fluid flush trick from the radiator line isn't available.

Collect and measure what is drained, as over refilling should be avoided.

Despite experience, the maker still says it never needs refilling.
 
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