306 STOP light - Albury mechanic

[trevorburdon]

Am on my way from Benalla to Canberra. The car was running but on leaving Albury after a short stop, the STOP warning light came on. Since it intermittently has gone on and of, and on and off, and ... . The engine is not overheating and all fluid levels (oil, water, brake) are good. The Oil pressure warning has not come on. Electrical connections are good. The big Baker dealership in Albury attempted to scan and couldn't retrieve any info. I know Peugeot Project 2000 does work.

Are there any recommendations for a local mechanic here in Albury/Wodong? Preferably with PP2000.

I expect it's probably safe to continue but taking all precautions.

HELP!

 

[trevorburdon]

... running well ...

 

[AlexB]

Am on my way from Benalla to Canberra. The car was running but on leaving Albury after a short stop, the STOP warning light came on. Since it intermittently has gone on and of, and on and off, and ... . The engine is not overheating and all fluid levels (oil, water, brake) are good. The Oil pressure warning has not come on. Electrical connections are good. The big Baker dealership in Albury attempted to scan and couldn't retrieve any info. I know Peugeot Project 2000 does work.

Are there any recommendations for a local mechanic here in Albury/Wodong? Preferably with PP2000.

I expect it's probably safe to continue but taking all precautions.

HELP!

Peugeot Planet won't help in this instance.
There are three temp sensors on the thermostat housing (just above the gearbox).
Unplug each of these and reseat them a few times to make a better connection.
I'll add details in next post

 

[AlexB]

306 has three temp sensors, only the VE=Green sensor used by the engine computer can be seen via OBD/PP2000.
BE= Blue sensor is for the temp gauge AND earths the STOP tell tale.
MR=Brown/Maroon is used by the Bitron fan controller.
The bitron can also earth the STOP tell tale.

After reseating the connectors you check the bitron and fans operate correctly by turning ignition on and unplugging the brown sensor. After a few seconds you'll hear the low speed fan and then both fans full speed. Reconnect the brown sensor and the fans will turn off confirming the fans and Bitron unit are functional.
Then continue on your drive

The Blue Sensor is the likely culprit if problem persists.

 

[Matthew]

Thanks AlexB for this info, very useful!

 

[Matthew]

Alex out of interest do you know what is the switch temp on the Blue sensor, ie at what point does the stop light come on, or is supposed to?

I have the same issue, rebuilt engine, new everything cleaned sensors but still over heating by temp guage, fanes work etc. Although this does not happen with air con on ie fans going so makes me think it might be water to coolant ratio. Not wanting to hijack but highlight the issues that cause these symptoms.

 

[AlexB]

do you know what is the switch temp on the Blue sensor, ie at what point does the stop light come on, or is supposed to?

Parts Book has
item 1338.09 Blue 110 DegC
which I assume is when pin 2 switches to earth (illuminate) the STOP tell tale.
Schematic of the sensors
4025 - 2V BE=Blue sensor
8008 - 2V MR=Brown sensor

 

[Matthew]

thanks all parts seen so far are 120C

 

[AlexB]

thanks all parts seen so far are 120C

I recall higher temp and different part number for cars without A/C

 

[trevorburdon]

Wow! AlexB Im very impressed.

Have arrived in Canberra and there was no recurrence at all today. I will follow your instructions - thank you.

BTW could I have done any harm? The working temp gauge did not show any overheating on the journey.

Trevor

 

[AlexB]

BTW could I have done any harm? The working temp gauge did not show any overheating on the journey.

If the gauge was stable between 70 and 90 then probably not. In the diagram above, pin 1 of the blue sensor is what drives the gauge on the dash and pin 2 is supposed to make contact at 110 degC to turn on the STOP tell tale, and this part of the sensor failing is the usual culprit. The info about the brown sensor was to give you peace of mind to continue your journey.
Should you change the blue sensor make sure to bleed any air out of the thermostat and pipes.

 

[trevorburdon]

I bow down! Thank you.

 

[trevorburdon]

If the gauge was stable between 70 and 90 then probably not. In the diagram above, pin 1 of the blue sensor is what drives the gauge on the dash and pin 2 is supposed to make contact at 110 degC to turn on the STOP tell tale, and this part of the sensor failing is the usual culprit. The info about the brown sensor was to give you peace of mind to continue your journey.
Should you change the blue sensor make sure to bleed any air out of the thermostat and pipes.

Alex,

thank you for your help a fortnight ago. I did clean out the sensor connections with electronic solvent, and had a trouble-free return trip to Melbourne. All fluids and temperature all OK.

BUT (were you ready for that)

in removing the blue sensor I split the connection adapter (see photos) :-( . It has silicone sealant on it ATM that's stopping it from wriggling off. I would like to fix it. Do these adapters have a type name? Are they generally available? Would the average auto-electricin have them?

Looking forward to your reply. Thanks Trevor.

 

[schlitzaugen]

That is a garden variety Bosch type connector. You can get the plastic housing by itself. Remove the pins from your old housing and put them back in the new one. No need for electrician. You're lucky you don't need t worry about the old connector so you can just cut it open or use any destructive method you like to get the pins out as long as you don't destroy the pins. Inserting the pins means just pushing in. Just mind the orientation and position.

Bosch 2 Pin Connector, Injector, Coolant Temperature, 1 287 013 003

Bosch 2 Pin Connector

www.efisolutions.com.au

 

[AlexB]

in removing the blue sensor I split the connection adapter (see photos) :-( . It has silicone sealant on it ATM that's stopping it from wriggling off. I would like to fix it. Do these adapters have a type name? Are they generally available? Would the average auto-electricin have them?

Hi Trevor, the plug is similar to an injector connector but has an offset key so it can only mate with the blue sensor, so unfortunately not commonly available. Two options, one is grind off the offest key on the blue sensor itself, other is to grind a slot in an injector connector. I'll have a look to see what's lurking in my lucky dip box.

 

[trevorburdon]

Thanks, it does look a bit different to schlitzaugens link. I guess I can get someone to lookup the actual part for me - duh!

 

[AlexB]

I guess I can get someone to lookup the actual part for me - duh!

I'm not sure you'll have any luck, I've only seen part numbers for the whole harness.

Red arrow shows the slot to match the key (blue arrow) on the sensor.
On the left is a blue injector connector from a past project in my lucky dip box.

 

[trevorburdon]

Alex,

I wouldn't want to deplete your lucky dip box. Now I know what I'm looking for I'll see what I can turn up here first.

Cheers Trevor

 

[DeeCee]

Alex, I enjoy punting around in my '55 203 and reading the exchanges between Trevor and yourself I know exactly why.
Simple, uncomplicated and a piece of #8 fencing wire will solve most problems. However, people like you and your advice and help are what makes AF such a great site. I'm sure Trevor agrees . Keep up the good work as who knows how many others with similar issues you help at the same time !

 

[AlexB]

in removing the blue sensor I split the connection adapter (see photos) :-( . It has silicone sealant on it ATM that's stopping it from wriggling off. I would like to fix it. Do these adapters have a type name? Are they generally available? Would the average auto-electricin have them?

Hi Trevor, I just noticed that the front foglights use the same blue plug, and the side lights use the same brown plug, and have the same keyways as the temp sensors. They also have the blob of sealant to water proof them, so with some solder and a bit of heatshrink you could reuse one and make a repair that looks totally original.