306, heater matrix and stop leak

blahblah

blahblah

Active member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Aug 20, 2004
Messages
351
Location
Perth
I've suspected the heater matrix on my 306 since I bought the car - forever topping up the coolant. Also staining near the clutch pedal and faint coolant odour from the air vents from time to time. Being psychologically unprepared for pulling out the dash to change the matrix, I found some Rislone stop leak at Supacheap auto:
IMG_2561.JPG

It's not the cheapest stuff but after 3 weeks of use I haven't had to top up the coolant and the cooling system actually pressurises :)

I'll update if this changes but I'm quite impressed - just add to the coolant, leave it in and top up with coolant.




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blahblah said:
It's not the cheapest stuff but after 3 weeks of use I haven't had to top up the coolant and the cooling system actually pressurises :)
Click to expand...
How much was it?

If it was the heater matrix, would you have been able to use the stuff or would you have had to have pulled out the dash and replaced the matrix?
 
I think it was $20-30 and replacing the matrix is a dash out job. Hence putting it off as long as possible!


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I put Bar's Leaks into a Pug years ago that had nothing wrong with it at the time as a preventative. It went on to a long life without problems. A similar Valeo heater coil was used in 90s Rangerovers and people did the same to them.
 
blahblah said:
… replacing the matrix is a dash out job.
Click to expand...
I know. I just experienced that.

seasink said:
I put Bar's Leaks into a Pug years ago that had nothing wrong with it at the time as a preventative. It went on to a long life without problems. A similar Valeo heater coil was used in 90s Rangerovers and people did the same to them.
Click to expand...
Interesting and cheap insurance.

Our 306 Cabriolet didn't have the Valeo matrix, though. I can't remember the brand name - started with B. It must be that they all fail.
 
Righto, after putting off replacing the heater matrix in the 306 XSI for as long as possible, I’ve decided to start tomorrow. It’s unlikely I can do it all tomorrow so I’ll continue on the weekend. I’ve run through the Haynes manual and the one bit of info missing is how to remove the passenger front airbag (where the glovebox is on older models).

Does anyone know if it needs to be removed (I’m thinking yes) and if so how to go about it (other than carefully)?

Cheers, Chris




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Chris,

I will be thinking of you. My psychological state certainly prevented me from tackling the job and I paid! Once was just weeks outside warranty when we were in Adelaide on holiday. PSA's miserly approach paid labour but not parts or the other way around and they wouldn't let me have the faulty part for my own inspection.

The good news? Despite the key attachment point that Allpike's broke, bodged and didn't tell me about on the first job, subsequently discovered by Taylors Peugeot in Adelaide on the second job, the dash never rattled.

Our 306 had the dash out three times in 21 years, twice in the first 5 for the heater matrix and then at about 18 for the AC evaporator (replaced the 13-year old heater matrix at the time as a cheap precaution.

Very best of luck..
 
Thanks Matthew, the link you’ve attached certainly saves some work!

Hi John, appreciate the thoughts - hopefully you won’t hear any screams!!

Happy new year!

Cheers,

Chris





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I think it's also wise to drop the steering column, allowing the dash to come forward more easily.
 
Agree remove both indicator and light stalks and drop the column on its bolts, remove air con duct section to get right rear bolt. Call me for any other assistance, the guide os quite good and it helped.
 
Thanks Peter and Matthew,

I’ve made reasonable progress - will drop the steering column as suggested as the right side is not free. The guide is pretty good!

The heater hose fittings into the matrix are cracked so will have to source new. I had a leak which I thought was the seals but the plastics cracked.

I’ll phone Peugeot but I suspect the cost will be silly plus a long wait. eBay has listings for all other models but not the xu10j4r (hose is 6464qf). May need to adapt one of the hoses available to fit. Worst case is the dash goes back in with the new matrix fitted but bypassed until I get the hoses.

It’s been pretty straightforward so far!

Cheers,

Chris
 
For the cracked plastics, you might talk to David Cavanagh at French Connection.... Or a UK/Europe supplier.

Good to hear you are still sane after hours on that particular job. :) The CX got a full coolant change yesterday - skin removed of course but trivial compared with your task!
 
Thanks John, I tried a Latvian parts provider (as one does) - very helpful but no joy. Will try the UK too.

Will give French Connections a go. So use to purchasing online I forget about the eastern states suppliers!

Yes, grazed knuckles/forearms are par for the course ( I had a flashback to replacing the inner steering rack joints on my first CX).

The 306 isn’t too bad - I believe to remove the dash in a CX you start by removing the rear wheels... [emoji6]




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If I am correct, you do start with the back axle in a Bugatti to replace an exhaust valve. Starting with the grill and then the RH headlamp to replace a CX battery seems to excite the battery people, not that I'd let them do that themselves!

Hope the rest goes smoothly. My main concern would be a delay before doing the Haynes classic "replacement is the reversal of removal" step, which would allow your memory to lose one or two key bits of information!
 
To make life easier and a tad more complicated in other ways undo the bulkhead connector, take off small round cover use T30 torx and undo bolt; undo the small m10 nuts and internal connector is now free internally and if all else is undone, dash will come out.

Carefully examine the connection for pins pushed innwyc, spray with crc /wd40 and when ready carefully reinstate it and all electrical things should work.
 
The posts on the dash can be fixed diy. Use a good superglue and rebuild, I fibreglassed one but had to use burr to bring it down to size and smooth enough to go into hole. There should also be a padding washer of material on each post as well where there is bare bulkhead metal.
 
Careful with the scuttle panel if you need to shift it; mine had silicon on it and I cracked the edge of the windscreen.
 
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