208 Rough Start (2013 1.6 VTI)

viv_g

New member
Tadpole
Joined
May 5, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Melbourne
Hey guys,


Having a problem with my 2013 208 1.6 VTI. It is starting roughly every morning at the moment - a problem that seems to have got worse over the last few months.


The car sort of chugs a few times before starting, sometimes for a second or so.


I took it to the local mechanic for a quick diagnostic. (Latest Bosch scanner, wasn't pp2000 but had a profile for my model of 208.) The scan returned a few error codes, most important ones are probably:
- B1805: Starter - Error Present
- B162C Relay Accessories: Status - Relay Not de-energized...


Do you guys have any tips? Are there any common problems with 208's that could lead to this? I will try get it to a Peugot specific mechanic soon, but I am bloody broke at the moment and would love to give this a crack myself.
 
Those two codes are standard no worries there what others do you have they did have a tsb for cleaning the intake ducts on these engines this was done by adding a fuel additive and was for cold flat spots and hard starting what sort of mileage is on it?


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
Hey guys,

Thanks for getting back to me. The car has 47,000 km on it. Last service was around 40,000 km but probably around a year ago. The car definetely has some flat spots under acceleration when cold. What sort of fuel additive would be used for this? Could a high octane fuel work?

The other codes present were:
Montronic MEC 17.4.2
- U1209 Can communication with transmission control (Message from transm not plausible)
Convenience 2
St.col. switch module 7.0
- B1181 Switch for fog lamps and rear for lights (Unknown error type)Central Electronics
Central electronics CE 7.0
- U1F1B LIN data bus 2 (No feedback from control unit)
- U1802 Driving speed signal (Signal invalid)
- B115F Interior lighting, front (open cirtuit / short circuit)
- B162C Relay accessories: Status (Relay not de-energized)
- B1805 Starter (Error Present)
- B1818 Engine oil level (Impermissible measured value)
Chassis / Steering
Electr. Power Steering 5.0
- C1644 System power supply
 
What fuel do you use


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
We just use standard 91 Octane in it. I'm pretty sure thats what it reccomended in the owners manual...
 
The normally aspirated engine still has high compression. 95 fuel minimum.
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Ah! Awesome..

That's an easy change to make. I'll run it on 98 for a bit and then move to 95. Would this have lead to dirty injectors / spark plugs? Is there anything else I should check? I have had a lot of experience with electric vehicles but my IC experience is semi limited...
 
Always check the plugs. They are fitted with a special type for longevity and people tend to neglect changes. You'll need a special 14mm plug tool - Toledo makes it - it's a skinny thing about 240mm long. The tool is used by the whole family of EP6 engines, Peugeot, Citroen, and Mini.

Flip up the electrical connectors and pull out the coils. The plugs are way way down.

A standard plug socket won't fit.

The large air filter behind the motor is easily inspected.
 
The tsb directly relates to using poor fuel causing the blockage you can remove the spark plugs using most double hex 14mm 3/8 long sockets and a 6 “ extension a heave duty fuel system cleaner (the type you mix with fuel before putting in tank) will fix it but try the 98 first and if you could get somebody with a scan tool to do a adaptive reset when the engine is “dead” cold after a couple of tanks that would be good


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
Awesome!

Thanks so much for your help everyone.

I'll buy a socket extension this week and check the spark plugs. I'll also try 98 octane and progress to heavy duty fuel cleaner if that doesn't fix the problem.

I'll report back and let you guys know how it is all progressing!

Thanks again.

Viv
 
These engines commonly have injectors that dribble or drip or leak down fuel pressure in rail Making long crank to start or stumble once started until it burns the fuel that's dripped into the cylinders out. They don't have a fuel return to the tank and just a fitting to connect fuel pressure gauge on end of fuel rail, best thing to do is attach one and build up the pressure or start car them switch off and leave off for 4 hours and if U have dropped a lot of pressure U know it's a fuel related hard or rough start. could be injectors leaking or in tank pump check valve. Also if U have access to a scan tool check live data from cold start and see what your oxygen sensors are doing
 
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