207 hdi intermittent fault and moisture in fuse box. Update - and excess oil

[johnandcass]

Hi all, first post here but have searched back and see there are lots of very knowledgeable and helpful people, so here goes. Sorry it is long - I am trying to be clear and comprehensive.
I have a 2009 207 SW with 1.6 hdi (VIN VF3WE9HZC34501606) which has developed an intermittent fault. Symptoms are missing, and cutting out and then not restarting until key has been removed and reinserted. Engine check light, and occasionally the stop warning too. Seems to happen randomly and can be just after start or driving for anywhere from 1 minute to 20 minutes! Warning faults on centre console generally are 'depollution system faulty' but 'water in diesel fuel filter' has also appeared on a few occasions.
Local mechanic has replaced fuel filter and read codes - presumably just using a standard reader, not lexia/digibox etc. Only code that has shown is P1166. I also have a cheaper OBD reader and am getting the same code and problem is still very intermittent.
Google suggests P1166 could be fuel rail pressure, but based on this post in another forum and the intermittent fault I think it could be a wiring issue. Initial investigation lead to the main engine fuse box, which had some moisture in it - hard to see in the attached photo, but most fuses had small amounts of water on the metal contact parts, and quite a few were showing signs of corrosion (photo). Car is not parked under cover and both the foam inserts on the side between the engine bay and the windscreen is absolutely sodden as is the insulation material that is behind the firewall (foam insert shown by screwdriver).
I have dried all contacts and fuses as best as I can and was planning to replace fuses starting tomorrow, but the diagram in my manual doesn't match the box in the engine bay. I have gone for a short drive and all seemed fine, but the problem has been super intermittent so I'm not holding my breath.
Questions:
1) can some one please post the correct fuse schematic for me?
2) could the problem be as simple as moisture in the fuse box and if so do I need to replace the whole box?
3) should that foam insert be dry (relatively speaking) and for some reason water falling on the windscreen is not draining properly?

cheers

 

[seasink]

That is the 9HZ coded engine. P1107 is the rail pressure being too high, above maximum value. It may mean over-voltage in the signal..

The vent in the scuttle is familiar, as it is almost the same as used in the the small Citroens of that time, the C3 and DS3. If tree debris is about a veritable compost heap can collect and solidify under that grille. Unfortunately there is a drain down there at the back, into the wheel well behind the liner. Water can even overflow via the grille during rain into the engine bay. My car overflowed on the left side. If you can't see the drain with a torch it's covered over The same goes if a screwdriver doesn't tap metal.

Compost being slightly porous the water may drain away slowly after the rain stops.

You can undo the front of the scuttle and lever the grill up enough to clear the rubbish out. My cars had a rubber fitting on the drain, which I removed to make the aperture larger. Should you need to change a wheel strut or bearing, you will need to lever the grille aside and out also to access the fixing.

Your fuse box looks like the C3 unit. If nobody posts the Peugeot box I'll post the Citroen one. In that car F1 (20A, left side of bottom row of five) supplies the engine control.

 

[johnandcass]

Thanks seasink.
i do have some compost build up in that area which I have partially removed and will do some more work on.
i agree, google suggests it could be a c3 fuse box and by chance the fuse I photographed was the F1 fuse… I’ve replaced it but haven’t been able to test yet. I’ll report back when I get a chance.

 

[johnandcass]

so... Monday night I replaced all the fuses in that engine box and used electrical contact cleaner on the contacts and subsequently done 2 daily commutes to work no problems and was starting to wonder if the problem was resolved or just the intermittent nature of the fault meant a lack of faults coincided with my work. Unfortunately the fault came back tonight.
Would over voltage in the fuel pressure signal as mentioned by seasink always be identifiable or can it be intermittent - and where do I test it? Seasink - you have quote P1107, but my mechanic and I are seeing P1166.
Any tips on next thing to help troubleshoot?
Or am I better off just giving up until I can get someone with diagbox to look at it?
thanks!

 

[Stuey]

J&C, I saw THIS a while back when I was trying to fix a relative's Ford Focus, and for some reason remembered that P1166 code. I thought it was a good read, to show how difficult these things could be (repairing by trouble code) and had stuck it in my favourites. Weirdly, it is somewhat relevant to your situation, mainly to show what kind of left field things might trigger your fault code.

 

[seasink]

From the PSA handbook - P1166 - La pression au niveau du rail est au dessus de la valeur maximale
Rail pressure is above maximum.

P11xx = maker specific code. Fuel and air metering.

 

[johnandcass]

J&C, I saw THIS a while back when I was trying to fix a relative's Ford Focus, and for some reason remembered that P1166 code. I thought it was a good read, to show how difficult these things could be (repairing by trouble code) and had stuck it in my favourites. Weirdly, it is somewhat relevant to your situation, mainly to show what kind of left field things might trigger your fault code.

Thanks Stuey.
Since my last post I have cleaned a bunch of sensor connectors, but didn't progress to removing the EGR sensor or trying to clean the EGR valve. While I could have removed the fuel filter and bracket allowing access to these parts, I really don't want to unnecessarily pull out random parts for checking. Just to clarify is the fuel rail pressure sensor located near the EGR valve? I am having trouble interpreting engine diagrams.
I'm booked in to another local mechanic who has some Peugeot experience but that isn't for a few weeks still.
Is anyone aware of someone in SW WA with diagbox or a lexia? If the mechanic can't get anywhere I think I'll need to go down this path as I can't risk driving it to Perth.
Cheers

 

[seasink]

The sensor is on the fuel rail end, above the EGR cooler.

 

[johnandcass]

I haven't made any progress on this yet, but next step is to check and clean wires and connectors for crank sensor, EGR and fuel pressure. Will report back when I can.

 

[johnandcass]

An update but no silver bullet yet, so more questions!
I omitted it from the first post but the problems only started after a service so today I went back to basics and am fairly convinced there is excess oil in the sump - for a height of around 1.5-2 cm above the high mark there is almost as much oil residue on the dipstick as between the low and high mark. I know some oil will get caught on the edges, but this seems too much.
I also cleaned the MAF sensor and the amount of black residue that came out with the cleaner seemed really significant compared to some videos.
With more testing, it definitely misses or shudders a little following a period (say 5 seconds) of low revs, if you then only slowly accelerate. If you rev hard after idle it seems fine.
Could excess oil be clogging the MAF sensor or EGR valve and causing my problems? I will take it back to the mechanic who did the service and if the extra oil could be related will get them to clean/repair parts as necessary.
Thanks

 

[johnandcass]

So today the mechanic drained all oil and replaced with the correct amount of fresh oil. I don't believe they checked/cleaned any sensors - hope to confirm that tomorrow. I have since driven home (about 15km, mainly 70 km/h) with no faults but the fault was very intermittent so may or may not mean anything. It doesn't seem to miss on gentle acceleration after a period of low revs however.
Fingers crossed, and hope to give it a good test and now the oil is correct, an 'italian tune' over the next few days and check the MAF sensor again.

 

[johnandcass]

Update. The day after my last post it missed badly and engine light came on. When I read the codes they were:
P0001 - relating to fuel pressure regulator/wiring
P0409 - EGR valve stuck
P0606 - internal ECM fault
P1471 - EGR valve
It was then looked at by another mechanic who said 2 injectors needed tightening and cleared codes - none of which have come back.
It has since been running smoothly, in fact better than I remember, so hopefully it's resolved.
Could loose injectors have caused the missing and faults - I have also had P1166 (fuel pressure) at the start of this saga which seems to make sense.
The mechanic physically inspected the Eolys bag - empty so perhaps the DPF is clogged. Can the FAPapp check this?
If the fault returns, is my first thought of electrical issue due to moisture in fuse box where to troubleshoot?

 

[johnandcass]

Further update - this week I replaced the BSM with a new one and the electrical gremlins and poor running continue unfortunately - see screenshots from the FAP app taken 2 seconds apart - noting car is off and Airflow sensor reading changes from 17 (about ambient temp) to -40C and FAP temp changing from 201 to 452C.
Prior to, and since replacing the BSM I have had P1351 show up and return on starting if cleared. I understand this may be glow plug or glow plug sensor.
So, any thoughts on next steps to troubleshoot as it seems electrical? Would getting a Diagbox or PP reading give much more info than the FAP app?
Any members in SW WA with Diagbox?