206 GTi cutting out off idle

I see your point. That is why I am curious as well. But that is an IC so it has some other doodads in it.

You can get one from Mouser for 6 bucks (US) or so, but the killer is postage. Would be good to have a close look at some datasheets see if you could find an equivalent from RS Components because they ship free (they don't have that one however, but have some that look similar).

Those thingies on the PCB are capacitors most likely. They shouldn't suffer.

You can have curve tracers for anything, in fact most of the time they are used for semiconductors these days because of the convenience of not having to pull things out of the board to measure them especially with multipin ICs and such. A capacitor, resistor, etc is not that much of a pain to remove and check.
 
I haven't looked too closely at the datasheet, but it's programmable, so it's set by the user (mfr) to produce a particular response slope according to application. So not DIY replaceable.

Anyway, maybe the crank sensor thing is worth pursuing. I just can't see it giving those symptoms. Mind you, an inductive sensor does increase its output as the revs rise doesn't it? Maybe it's working at higher engine speeds. Who knows? Not me, obviously!

Ah well, this is more fun than using one of those fancy automotive scan tools with integral 'scope...ha ha ha ha. (Yeah right Stuey).
 
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Yeah, I was wondering about that programmable part. If it's programmed at the factory, you can only replace it after you program yours yourself, and for that you would need to reverse engineer one that works perfectly, kinda like building an advance curve for a dizzy with a timing light and a vernier c'shaft pulley. Still, beats paying what? 100 bucks or so?
 
Ha ha ha. Wait for it....the Pug dealer told me they are NLA but the price would have been $417 !!!!!

There are many non OE ones available but the guy from Pug was quite useful actually and strongly recommended I only buy Bosch or Marelli, but recommended actually buying a good used one. There are loads on eBay. He even looked up a few before phoning me back so he could tell me the approximate price, which I thought was pretty good of him.
 
For that price I would have replaced it quick smart with a 2$ piece of junk from Jaycar, a pot stuck with gaffa tape in the throttle body and told him to get ****ed. I still think you could convert to a pot sensor easily.

Never mind, Peugeot and others are killing their own business this way. My son had his RS Megane key recoded by some guy in the UK for 50 bucks when he heard it cost 600$ for a replacement here (Renault apparently can't recode it!). That's the reason these businesses exist.
 
Stuey are you interested in these IMG_1568854331.766487.jpg
IMG_1568854345.379224.jpg
IMG_1568854356.952916.jpg


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
Just got rid of those earlier this year


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
dmccurtayne said:
Just got rid of those earlier this year


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
Click to expand...


Any chance you could find and post a picture here just to see what they look like?
 
Only got this from a post earlier in the year
IMG_1568875134.672652.jpg


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
Oh you're a good man! I'll PM you to sort out the details.



dmccurtayne said:
Free just postage


Garage C5 X7 3008 XTE
Gone but not forgotten 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
Click to expand...
 
OK, this weekend's update. The problem persists. I have:


  • Acquired an analogue voltmeter and measured the output of the TPS; it has a dead smooth progression from about 0.7 to about 3.9 volts at WOT. There are no slight fluctuations at all. As an aside, I noticed that the EGR valve clacks a few times just around about the time of throttle closure if I'm moving it slowly.


  • Checked the coolant temp sensor resistance at cold and hot; it seems around spec - circa 5k ohms at cold and just over 600 hot.


  • Checked the intake air temperature sensor is at least somewhere in spec resistance wise - circa 2300 ohms at today's ambient.



  • Checked the CAS/CPS again and my last measurement of resistance was dud - it's around 490 ohms which is normal. Excuse: I just got a new autoranging DMM and wasn't used to it...Duh. My other two are old fashioned 'choose range yourself' jobs (which I like actually...).


  • Checked feedback type sensors (cam, TPS) for getting the correct reference voltage from the ECU - they all receive very close to 5v.


  • Cleaned the idle air valve solenoid/stepper and checked its resistances - which were just under the spec of 48-62 ohms I found somewhere, mine is 44 ohms. It does respond quickly to very minor changes in throttle movement, observed through the throttle intake. Question...does this have a role in the 'coming off idle transition'?


  • Checked all vacuum pipes physically, then rechecked by disconnecting them, blocking the corresponding pipe on the throttle body and observing that the problem is still there when I move the throttle butterfly with engine running.


  • As well as I could, listened around the manifold for vacuum leaks using a pipe stethoscope. Then tried a propane torch (gas only) especially around the crankcase metal pipe to manifold joint. Nothing to report.



  • Checked output of alternator both DC and AC; 14.3 ish DC and almost no AC component.

Two further things noted: the car is hard to start cold, but starts instantly hot. And for interest, when run without the coolant temp sensor connector connected, the problem is minimised (but it still happens). And it will idle smoothly for hours no worries, and revs as much as you want once you have the throttle past the 'zero transition' stumble.

Bloody stumped. Hard cold starting and flat spot indicates running lean doesn't it? I'm desperately starting to wonder if the plastic manifold has come apart a bit at a seam or something. I think it's interesting it happened at once with no lead up or warning, as if something just failed.

I might even need to (gasp) take it somewhere for a smoke test or a run on a proper scan tool. I do know a good local Euro mechanic that's not anti French, well trained on modern diagnostics.
 
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Removed EGR valve and all seems ok with it. Not dirty at all and valve 'piston' moving fine and seating properly (as indicated by aforementioned 'clack' sound).

Next...fuel pressure issue? But then why would it run OK at higher speeds?

Might have to check over the inlet manifold and gaskets off the car.

Luckily I don't desperately need this car eh?
 
Me again.

Well I got out my Foxwell NT204 OBD reader again, thinking the ECU may have saved a code after the weekend's tinkering. Well duh, I should have looked at this device more thoroughly. Although the Saved Codes and Pending Codes still showed '0', the View Freeze Frame option which it suggests is not available but when entered past the main screen, showed Code P0120 - Throttle Position Sensor!

The damn thing suggested the Live Data option was also not available, but if you enter past this it shows live data. Arrgh. I just tried it this evening in the dark, so without starting the car the 'TP%' ranged from 14.7 to 67 with the engine off and pressing the pedal, which suggests the TPS is knackered I think. How does this sit with my measured voltage range? Not sure as I was mainly looking for even progression. I had read the upper voltage should be circa 4.5 though, where mine was 3.9 but the source of that number was suspect.

But now I'll have a fiddle with the car running now that I have live data. The only other static data of interest (without starting the car) were the two temp sensors (air intake, coolant) which both showed 22C, which is about right...

Just have to learn about fuel trims now.
 
Continuing the narrative!

Grand Final day means no work on the car (and I won't have the TPS for some time anyway), but I've noticed this week the fuel pump makes a mild single thump once it gets pressure up, on switching the key to 'ignition'. So, whirrrrrrr...thump. Not loud but noticable.

It definitely didn't do this before....there used to be just the whirring whistle sound of the pump until pressure was achieved, then nothing. Now it makes a small thump sound (only when it's been left for hours like overnight). I think there's an in tank pressure regulator on these isn't there? I wonder if there's some issue with the pump or regulator. Or filter. I guess I'll have to test rail pressure...
 
Oops, it is a thump to start as I found out this morning. So, a distinct thump then the normal pump priming whirr. And the car takes about five goes to start from dead cold. I think I need a pressure gauge for the fuel rail.

Have now reseated the ECU plugs to eliminate any issue here and am grabbing some diagnostic data from the OBD reader. There is a big issue with fuel trims I noticed the other day.
 
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