I am presently converting my 205GTI to Megasquirt but have not been able to get an output from the Crank Position Sensor(CPS). I have a mi16 flywheel not sure of year. I originally tried with 205 SI CPS while i could read the resistance could not read an output with a digital voltmeter. Not to be deterred I sourced an early Mi16 CPS (these have higher resistance than the SI ones 370 ohms vs 800 ohms) but still no output. Both these had a fitting depth of 24mm and I can see the toothed flywheel below. Has anyone got any ideas? Is there another CPS that should be used? Maybe the flywheel is from another peugeot model?
205GTI with Crank Position Sensor
- Thread starter neilc
- Start date
Don't worry about flywheels for now.
Get the sensor out and rig your meter to the terminals (voltage setting), then come in closer and closer with a piece of metal to the sensor. At some point, you should read something.
Keep in mind these things work by induction, so holding a piece of metal at the reading end of the sensor won't do anything. You need to move it a little bit.
You could try reading the resistance as well (as you move the piece of metal in/out) but I am not sure of the result.
Easiest way to test is to have an allen key (the L type) in your hand drill and spin that at the reading end, see what happens. Don't spin it too fast to give the meter a chance to keep up with the refresh. Either way, if it counts, you've got something.
I have tested a few of these sensors (Ford, Peugeot and unknown) in my lathe against a toothed wheel I made and they can read it from a much longer distance than I expected. I think at about 1cm out it was still reading. Toothed wheel spinning in the chuck, sensor in the tool post. This was however not done with a meter but with the ignition module rigged up to spark plugs screwed in a piece of aluminium. They fired consistently regardless of how far I was with the sensor.
Get the sensor out and rig your meter to the terminals (voltage setting), then come in closer and closer with a piece of metal to the sensor. At some point, you should read something.
Keep in mind these things work by induction, so holding a piece of metal at the reading end of the sensor won't do anything. You need to move it a little bit.
You could try reading the resistance as well (as you move the piece of metal in/out) but I am not sure of the result.
Easiest way to test is to have an allen key (the L type) in your hand drill and spin that at the reading end, see what happens. Don't spin it too fast to give the meter a chance to keep up with the refresh. Either way, if it counts, you've got something.
I have tested a few of these sensors (Ford, Peugeot and unknown) in my lathe against a toothed wheel I made and they can read it from a much longer distance than I expected. I think at about 1cm out it was still reading. Toothed wheel spinning in the chuck, sensor in the tool post. This was however not done with a meter but with the ignition module rigged up to spark plugs screwed in a piece of aluminium. They fired consistently regardless of how far I was with the sensor.
Thanks Schlitzaugen have found the the DVM needs to be an AC range not Auto, the CAS is generating 5volts under cranking conditions
Of course. Didn't think to mention that.
Yes from what I read it seems the way to go, I have read articles on this forum and other places, I gather the one you use are for mounting externally? I see there is a BMW one which works but haven’t been able to find a spec sheet. There may be others? At the moment I would be happy getting any output out of the conditioner circuit even if it is unusable to prove the circuit is ok even if it needs adjusting
The same circuit would be used for Hall effect with minor modifications so I need to fix anyway
The same circuit would be used for Hall effect with minor modifications so I need to fix anyway