205 Stereo
- Thread starter run205
- Start date
Right. So it looks like Alex was right and those are the inputs/outputs where you have that mess. Don't try switching it on again, because like I said, if they're shorted the final amplifier IC will go up in smoke. Alex was right, there is a diode there, but it is on the top, not surface mount under the PCB. You can see it squeezed between the comb terminals. Clean everything properly and see what's up with that diode. You can try to measure it in circuit, if results are confusing, you may have to desolder one terminal and test it again. If it's okay, solder the terminal back in, if not, read the label on the body and go buy one and replace it. Mind polarity.
With everything clean, reflow all the soldering. Add a tiny bit of solder and make sure you get good penetration.
After that maybe test with a multimeter that the outputs to the speakers are not shorted and then you can try it again.
There is one light blue electrolytic in the bottom left you can not see it properly in the pictures, but you can see under it on the PCB there is heavy corrosion. Clean and perhaps take that one out and check under it. If anything suspicious, replace.
There is another one (the big black one, 1000uF/16V, next to the big toroid) where the black spot circled in yellow is under the PCB. Maybe take that one out and inspect see what's what. Replace if necessary.
If still no sound or low volume you need more involved testing before you decide the IC is toast.
You can blindly replace some coupling capacitors (the little ochre ceramic discs) but I doubt they would be the problem. They look fine to me.
The electrolytics look fine too, and they are high quality Rubycon and Matsushita. Not beyond doubt, but not the first worry. The two resistors look fine as well. Measuring everything would decide if the fault is with the final IC or not. What you can do is find the power supply tot he IC and measure that you have the correct voltage there ( 12V or thereabouts). If that is good, all the electrolytics are okay, don't worry about them yet. If not, you could try desoldering the electrolytics and see what hides under them. Water may have crept in and corroded the terminals or shorted them. If you see anything untoward, they need replacing.
With everything clean, reflow all the soldering. Add a tiny bit of solder and make sure you get good penetration.
After that maybe test with a multimeter that the outputs to the speakers are not shorted and then you can try it again.
There is one light blue electrolytic in the bottom left you can not see it properly in the pictures, but you can see under it on the PCB there is heavy corrosion. Clean and perhaps take that one out and check under it. If anything suspicious, replace.
There is another one (the big black one, 1000uF/16V, next to the big toroid) where the black spot circled in yellow is under the PCB. Maybe take that one out and inspect see what's what. Replace if necessary.
If still no sound or low volume you need more involved testing before you decide the IC is toast.
You can blindly replace some coupling capacitors (the little ochre ceramic discs) but I doubt they would be the problem. They look fine to me.
The electrolytics look fine too, and they are high quality Rubycon and Matsushita. Not beyond doubt, but not the first worry. The two resistors look fine as well. Measuring everything would decide if the fault is with the final IC or not. What you can do is find the power supply tot he IC and measure that you have the correct voltage there ( 12V or thereabouts). If that is good, all the electrolytics are okay, don't worry about them yet. If not, you could try desoldering the electrolytics and see what hides under them. Water may have crept in and corroded the terminals or shorted them. If you see anything untoward, they need replacing.
Given the age replace the electrolytic caps, they will have degraded (Even mathshita and other tier one makers) . Simply clean with metho and a toothbrush (old one) then finish off with a proper non residual cleaner. As mentioned those black spots are likely damaged components, Go carefully. Any repairer will be able to deal with this if in doubt. Electrolytics (especially the large one) will have a increase in ripple voltage and their ESR (effictive series resistance = bad) will rise. Looks are deceiving! OK for testing for long life replace with other good ones.
Given the low voltage these caps are working at, I suggest they are not yet up for replacement. I have tested numerous Rubycon and Matsushita (and Elna, Nichicon and Nippon-Chemicon, etc) out of old gear and they test better than new caps you can get from Jaycar/Altronics. They have better ESR and leakage than new run of the mill capacitors. Besides, some of those caps are specced to last 10000 hours (long life). If they were some unknown brand, I would have no hesitation changing them.
Also, if they were subjected to high voltage and high ripple for years on end (like say in vacuum tube gear), yes. I would say go for it. But that radio has probably minimal hours on it and the caps are there to smooth a voltage which is already DC and it's only 12V or so.
If you're happy to go to some serious retailer and get proper caps of the same brand, yes, replace them without testing. It's not a bad idea and it's not going to cost too much. Otherwise, test first, decide after and if you need to replace, use same brands.
Also, if they were subjected to high voltage and high ripple for years on end (like say in vacuum tube gear), yes. I would say go for it. But that radio has probably minimal hours on it and the caps are there to smooth a voltage which is already DC and it's only 12V or so.
If you're happy to go to some serious retailer and get proper caps of the same brand, yes, replace them without testing. It's not a bad idea and it's not going to cost too much. Otherwise, test first, decide after and if you need to replace, use same brands.
right, not able to fix my own OE stereo units so shipped them off to Alex
schl reckons I should "go for an OEM Honda out of early 2000 cars"
so I'm seeing if schl's Honda stereo suggestion is a goer
just been down to the local wrecker
several of the recommended early 2000's Honda's (CRV's if it makes any difference)
two with OE Honda single DIN stereo's
but looks like the peugeot cable connections dont slot into the Honda stereo ??
now what ?
schl reckons I should "go for an OEM Honda out of early 2000 cars"
so I'm seeing if schl's Honda stereo suggestion is a goer
just been down to the local wrecker
several of the recommended early 2000's Honda's (CRV's if it makes any difference)
two with OE Honda single DIN stereo's
but looks like the peugeot cable connections dont slot into the Honda stereo ??
now what ?
thanks matt,
option 1 was fix mine, but that was beyond me
option 2 Honda unit , looks like that's a dead end too as I thought they'd just plug straight in
option 3 was maybe Alex could fix mine and I'll buy it back
or your unit
option 1 was fix mine, but that was beyond me
option 2 Honda unit , looks like that's a dead end too as I thought they'd just plug straight in
option 3 was maybe Alex could fix mine and I'll buy it back
or your unit
Of course nothing plugs straight in. Manufacturers don't like that. What, you want now to just get a better one and replace ours?! Nah.
But there are two options. There are adaptor cables you can buy or your can just chop and solder.
If looking for an adaptor, there is one that takes a Honda plug and converts it to a plug like the one in your car (Eurovox), I think it was used on Commodores? Camiras? I found it in Repco stores but Supercheap, etc. have them. It's a generic adaptor with Honda end and a Eurovox end.
I found it easier however to just make my own. I chopped both the wires in the car and those coming out of the original Honda plug and replaced them with Deutsch plugs so I can separate power supply and outputs. That way in case of something going wrong I can disconnect stuff separately and see what the problem is. Needless to say I never needed it. Deutsch plugs are watertight too.
But there are two options. There are adaptor cables you can buy or your can just chop and solder.
If looking for an adaptor, there is one that takes a Honda plug and converts it to a plug like the one in your car (Eurovox), I think it was used on Commodores? Camiras? I found it in Repco stores but Supercheap, etc. have them. It's a generic adaptor with Honda end and a Eurovox end.
I found it easier however to just make my own. I chopped both the wires in the car and those coming out of the original Honda plug and replaced them with Deutsch plugs so I can separate power supply and outputs. That way in case of something going wrong I can disconnect stuff separately and see what the problem is. Needless to say I never needed it. Deutsch plugs are watertight too.
would have been nice to know that when you suggested it AT THE BEGINNING
don't anybody else waste time on the Honda stereo suggestion
hopefully Im the only duffer to be given vague directions to nowhere
I am not sure why you assumed it would plug straight in? All aftermarket stereos come with adaptors, don't they?
There are commercial adaptors you can buy that will plug in, see above. Also aid above, it is not that hard to make your own.
My recommendation was made on the assumption that you wanted a better radio.
You have received rather detailed directions I didn't get from anyone when facing the same problem. The legwork has been done for you. You just need to follow the instructions. If you give up half way along, it's up to you but don't blame those who want to help you.
We also gave you instructions how to fix your radio, but that didn't get you anywhere, was that our fault as well?
I think you're the only duffer who expects the internet to fix their problems.
There are commercial adaptors you can buy that will plug in, see above. Also aid above, it is not that hard to make your own.
My recommendation was made on the assumption that you wanted a better radio.
You have received rather detailed directions I didn't get from anyone when facing the same problem. The legwork has been done for you. You just need to follow the instructions. If you give up half way along, it's up to you but don't blame those who want to help you.
We also gave you instructions how to fix your radio, but that didn't get you anywhere, was that our fault as well?
I think you're the only duffer who expects the internet to fix their problems.