205 series II wheel bearing service.
- Thread starter 205luv
- Start date
not quite sure what your asking ..? what model do you have
the bearings are sealed so no greasing required
if you aren't sure on what hubs you have, you could check here : https://catalogs.ssg.asia/peugeot/?lang=en
and if you're referring to torquing up your hubnuts, its in the Haynes book:
Front - GTi - 260Nm, everything else - 250Nm
Rear - 215Nm
the bearings are sealed so no greasing required
if you aren't sure on what hubs you have, you could check here : https://catalogs.ssg.asia/peugeot/?lang=en
and if you're referring to torquing up your hubnuts, its in the Haynes book:
Front - GTi - 260Nm, everything else - 250Nm
Rear - 215Nm
Hi 
this is a typical wheel bearing in most modern cars front and rear. And vans. One for each wheel. Double row bearing, factory assembled, greased and sealed with no adjustment. It is pressed into the hub with a circlip to hold it and the axle nut is done up tight to spec. They will be damaged if you try to remove them from the hub and need replacing.
Some manufacturers actually only supply the bearing and the hub as an assembly.
Jaahn
this is a typical wheel bearing in most modern cars front and rear. And vans. One for each wheel. Double row bearing, factory assembled, greased and sealed with no adjustment. It is pressed into the hub with a circlip to hold it and the axle nut is done up tight to spec. They will be damaged if you try to remove them from the hub and need replacing.Some manufacturers actually only supply the bearing and the hub as an assembly.
Jaahn
nice one, yours the myth ? (mito in espanol)
good of you to think of greasing your bearings, some owners are flat out changing their oil regularly
bearings last a long time and sound pretty bad when they fail so you'll know
mine sounded awful
Thats my next question on these sealed bearings , whats the average change interval and how do i measure the wear , i have a DTI and a mag base so could i use that on the wheel rim to measure lateral bearing wear Obviosly wheel off the ground .
Common sense about changing the grease or bearings as they are metal to metal contact surfaces !.
Thanks for the piccy.
If i do change the hub bearing assy i,m going to need a torque wrench xtension cos mine only goes up to 140 Nm !
Yes in Spanish it is Mito , loads of em here running around even in the breakers yards, mostly diesels some gasoline , tons of salvageable body and interior parts series 1 and 2 from 3 and 4 doors, in fact theres loads of cars from the 60s and 70s still on the roads.
Common sense about changing the grease or bearings as they are metal to metal contact surfaces !.
Thanks for the piccy.
If i do change the hub bearing assy i,m going to need a torque wrench xtension cos mine only goes up to 140 Nm !
Yes in Spanish it is Mito , loads of em here running around even in the breakers yards, mostly diesels some gasoline , tons of salvageable body and interior parts series 1 and 2 from 3 and 4 doors, in fact theres loads of cars from the 60s and 70s still on the roads.
How would you measure bearing wear with the DTI? I mean what exactly would you be measuring? Are you sure that would be wear in the bearing and not some other effect? Put it on the hub and rock the hub back and forth? How do you know then that what you measure is wear in the bearings? It can very well be the bearings rocking in the hubs. Or a loose driveshaft nut or play in the hub carrier balljoints and so on.
Either way, I think there is enough play in many other components involved there that if you put a DTI on the hub (or wherever you fancy) it will go out of range without telling you anything (where the play is and how much).
These wheel bearings are angular contact bearings, very sensitive to proper preload. Too much you kill them, too little you kill them. Preloaded correctly there should be no play you can feel and should spin silent, smooth and free. And as mentioned above, when they go, you'll know.
If you really want to fret about it, I would suggest you visit the bearing manufacturer's webpage. They will definitely tell you all about everything.
Either way, I think there is enough play in many other components involved there that if you put a DTI on the hub (or wherever you fancy) it will go out of range without telling you anything (where the play is and how much).
These wheel bearings are angular contact bearings, very sensitive to proper preload. Too much you kill them, too little you kill them. Preloaded correctly there should be no play you can feel and should spin silent, smooth and free. And as mentioned above, when they go, you'll know.
If you really want to fret about it, I would suggest you visit the bearing manufacturer's webpage. They will definitely tell you all about everything.
There two types of front and two types of rear bearings. Without going to a dealer with a VIN number, you need to identify what you have, ie
Front - driveshaft nut staked (335017) or nut held with a clip (335016)?
Rear - disc (370152) or drum (374817)?
Ebay the numbers.
Front - driveshaft nut staked (335017) or nut held with a clip (335016)?
Rear - disc (370152) or drum (374817)?
Ebay the numbers.
the myth, what a legend
I really wouldn't bother measuring bearing wear or checking bearing manufacturers spec's
the bearings will last 25years give or take, less if your roads are salted, so just change them when the need arises
usually the kerbside ones go first as they are more likely to cop a few bangs etc
and they cost a bit from memory about $100 AUD each here
from Peter's numbers , yours bearings will be the base model front staked nut 335017 and rear drum 374817
before changing your hubs (hub carriers and driveflanges) hesitate a little
your Diesel Myth is basemodel hubcarrier and basemodel driveflange
both perfectly good,
especially since you can easily bolt on some 1.9GTi discs and 1.9GTi Girling calipers to those hubs
recently did this myself and its a pretty easy upgrade assuming you can get the parts
the only other thing to consider is your wheels - they need to accommodate the GTi calipers
if you do think you'll go this way I could easy shoot thru the part numbers, pics and which wheels to grab at the wreckers
I really wouldn't bother measuring bearing wear or checking bearing manufacturers spec's
the bearings will last 25years give or take, less if your roads are salted, so just change them when the need arises
usually the kerbside ones go first as they are more likely to cop a few bangs etc
and they cost a bit from memory about $100 AUD each here
from Peter's numbers , yours bearings will be the base model front staked nut 335017 and rear drum 374817
before changing your hubs (hub carriers and driveflanges) hesitate a little
your Diesel Myth is basemodel hubcarrier and basemodel driveflange
both perfectly good,
especially since you can easily bolt on some 1.9GTi discs and 1.9GTi Girling calipers to those hubs
recently did this myself and its a pretty easy upgrade assuming you can get the parts
the only other thing to consider is your wheels - they need to accommodate the GTi calipers
if you do think you'll go this way I could easy shoot thru the part numbers, pics and which wheels to grab at the wreckers