203 Wagon Restoration

Aah, I see what you mean now.
You can pack these bearings out if you have a removeable carbon.
This was done a lot in order to use the 9 spring 404 clutch plate, just a thought, you don't have a 404 clutch do you?
The 203 one has 6 springs.




Commerciale said:
Reducing the free play does not make any difference as the release fork still cannot go beyond the end of the slot to provide more release. I am left with three possibilities - worn thrust, clutch plate too thick or incorrectly adjusted fingers. I gave the specs to the rebuilder who provided a new driven plate and reconditioned the pressure plate. As the specs indicate a range of two mm for the plate thickness I have just about ruled that possibility out. Again, the specified total movement at the thrust is 1.5 mm. If I could bring the fingers up by an amount within that measurement the problem might be solved. Has anyone done this before?
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203

congratulations Tony, beautifull job ,
we wont ask how many shekles it cost will we ?
hand claps
colin
 
No Graham. The pressure plate is the original reconditioned. Also, the carbon probably cannot be removed being is held in place by the oil funnel and possibly a roll pin.
 
That is one magnificent looking PUG. You should be rightly proud of what you have achieved. Well done.

Cheers,
.
Dano
 
Almost forgot. There are two things I am still looking for. The first is a better lower driver's side rubber mat. By better I mean no tears, relatively soft and with little underfoot wear. The second is a Peugeot wooden handled Phillips head screwdriver for the tool kit. These were also supplied with the 403 so someone must have a spare.
 
If it is of that style then no, it cannot be removed.
Some were clamped in place by a bolt compressing the alloy ring.
It does look like the fingers have been set incorrectly.
Clutches will normally disengage fine even when the carbon has been worn right out and the alloy is making contact with the thrust pad. BGT in Dandenong are experienced with setting up these clutch plates.
Graham

Commerciale said:
No Graham. The pressure plate is the original reconditioned. Also, the carbon probably cannot be removed being is held in place by the oil funnel and possibly a roll pin.
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Oooooohhhhhh, lovely. Just seen your efforts, and I'm full of admiration.
I am attempting a "no expense spared" resto of a 1952 Citroen Light 15 in similar condition, but sand blasting etc are not in my lexicon as I need a project to get me off my arse and out from under a small "black dog", so paint stripper, elbow grease and profanity, plus plenty of encouragement from Froggers and my "Consultant" will hopefully achieve a comparable result.

How long have you taken??
 
WOW! You have every right to puff out the chest, that's just beautiful..

You are a very lucky guy to have found such a solid example to use as a base and the car is very fortunate indeed to have been restored by someone who cared and was prepared to do 'whatever it takes' to complete what must been an enormous task.

No one but yourself would really know what it took to achieve that result, though some of us would have a clue.

Well done and now the real enjoyment begins. Happy motoring.:worship:

 
exvet said:
Oooooohhhhhh, lovely. Just seen your efforts, and I'm full of admiration.
I am attempting a "no expense spared" resto of a 1952 Citroen Light 15 in similar condition, but sand blasting etc are not in my lexicon as I need a project to get me off my arse and out from under a small "black dog", so paint stripper, elbow grease and profanity, plus plenty of encouragement from Froggers and my "Consultant" will hopefully achieve a comparable result.

How long have you taken??
Click to expand...

The actual restoration has taken a bit over four years. However, this was preceded by a couple of years of research and parts gathering. Being retired I theoretically have 24/7 available for tasks such as this. In practice my attention span is about 3-4 hours per day and not every day.

Whilst I admire your desire to forgo abrasive blasting I would also suggest that while risking brain death in the process the end result cannot be as good. Your time is probably better spent in pedantic tasks such as ensuring that every nut, bolt, washer and other fasteners are original and authentic. If Citroen do their parts books as well as Peugeot you have something to memorise and follow to the nth degree. Besides which there is plenty to do if you make up your own wiring loom, brake lines and small rubber bits.

Speaking of blasting, an indispensable aid is a blasting cabinet. All those little steel bits will come up rust free with garnet and aluminium with glass beads. The cabinets themselves are not dear (get the biggest one you can afford) but a compressor of at least 14 cfm is essential, as is a dust extractor. Old vacuum cleaners bought cheaply make good sacrificial extractors. The grit eventually gets them in the motor - I have gone through two on this project.

And remember, your best friend is Ebay France -consult daily for surprising results.
 
59 Floride said:
WOW! You have every right to puff out the chest, that's just beautiful..

You are a very lucky guy to have found such a solid example to use as a base and the car is very fortunate indeed to have been restored by someone who cared and was prepared to do 'whatever it takes' to complete what must been an enormous task.

No one but yourself would really know what it took to achieve that result, though some of us would have a clue.

Well done and now the real enjoyment begins. Happy motoring.:worship:

Click to expand...
Thanks for the compliments. However, being naturally lazy I cannot compare with your speedy efforts and innovation in making parts. Mine have been largely confined to turning up or forming odd shaped fasteners (6mm Phillips head screws - no problems).

On reflection I can probably justify the whole process by the fact that the car was so good and original it would have been a crime not to save it. And being lazy I was attracted by the fact that it is a hell of lot easier to restore a complete and original car than an incomplete basket case.
 
Well, it took some time but I am now on the road. Historic registration has been obtained and I am some way towards running in the new motor - at least I have been able to loosen it up after 60 miles.

The clutch problem was only resolved after pulling the motor twice. Needless to say I'm getting better at this process but not planning to make it a regular occurrence. The first time I attempted to rectify the problem by shimming the thrust. I was rewarded by disintegration of one lever spring. A word was had to someone who actually knows what they are doing (BGT Brake Services in Dandenong). The problem was instantly diagnosed as a too thick driven plate and associated lever adjustment. They supplied a suitable driven plate and made the necessary adjustment at not unreasonable cost. I cannot speak too highly of their knowledge and quick service. You would be mad to go anywhere else (as I found out the hard way).

The final annoying problems were the gear change and the speedo. I was intermittently locked out of overdrive until I realised that the nut on the end of the main gear change rod was not fully done up, allowing the lower thrust washer to jam between the spacers. The speedo was awakened from its 40 year slumber by careful oiling and application of a cordless drill to the drive socket.

After said 40 years I had forgotten how noisy a car of this era can be. Agricultural but at the same time refined. However, I am revelling again in the delightfully direct steering and tight turning circle which are probably the 203's best features.
 
Commerciale said:
Well, it took some time but I am now on the road. Historic registration has been obtained and I am some way towards running in the new motor - at least I have been able to loosen it up after 60 miles.

The clutch problem was only resolved after pulling the motor twice. Needless to say I'm getting better at this process but not planning to make it a regular occurrence. The first time I attempted to rectify the problem by shimming the thrust. I was rewarded by disintegration of one lever spring. A word was had to someone who actually knows what they are doing (BGT Brake Services in Dandenong). The problem was instantly diagnosed as a too thick driven plate and associated lever adjustment. They supplied a suitable driven plate and made the necessary adjustment at not unreasonable cost. I cannot speak too highly of their knowledge and quick service. You would be mad to go anywhere else (as I found out the hard way).

The final annoying problems were the gear change and the speedo. I was intermittently locked out of overdrive until I realised that the nut on the end of the main gear change rod was not fully done up, allowing the lower thrust washer to jam between the spacers. The speedo was awakened from its 40 year slumber by careful oiling and application of a cordless drill to the drive socket.

After said 40 years I had forgotten how noisy a car of this era can be. Agricultural but at the same time refined. However, I am revelling again in the delightfully direct steering and tight turning circle which are probably the 203's best features.
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Wow! Well done! Thats all I can say.:banana:
 
Wow. That must be a benchmark! Congratulations. Looks like a time-warp....pursuit of originality has certainly produced an outstanding result and provided inspiration to others. What does a brand new old peugeot 203 wagon smell like inside?

Tim
 
What a beautiful car. May you enjoy it for many, many years.
 
Glad you took my advice re BGT.
It shouldn't be that noisy, maybe check the ignition timing. It won't ping no matter far it is advanced but will run harshly if advanced too much.
Don't set for maximum revs but advance to the point where the engine stops sounding strangled but before the revs rise noticeably.

Commerciale said:
Well, it took some time but I am now on the road. Historic registration has been obtained and I am some way towards running in the new motor - at least I have been able to loosen it up after 60 miles.

The clutch problem was only resolved after pulling the motor twice. Needless to say I'm getting better at this process but not planning to make it a regular occurrence. The first time I attempted to rectify the problem by shimming the thrust. I was rewarded by disintegration of one lever spring. A word was had to someone who actually knows what they are doing (BGT Brake Services in Dandenong). The problem was instantly diagnosed as a too thick driven plate and associated lever adjustment. They supplied a suitable driven plate and made the necessary adjustment at not unreasonable cost. I cannot speak too highly of their knowledge and quick service. You would be mad to go anywhere else (as I found out the hard way).

The final annoying problems were the gear change and the speedo. I was intermittently locked out of overdrive until I realised that the nut on the end of the main gear change rod was not fully done up, allowing the lower thrust washer to jam between the spacers. The speedo was awakened from its 40 year slumber by careful oiling and application of a cordless drill to the drive socket.

After said 40 years I had forgotten how noisy a car of this era can be. Agricultural but at the same time refined. However, I am revelling again in the delightfully direct steering and tight turning circle which are probably the 203's best features.
Click to expand...
 
That is just lovely. Congratulations on a wonderful job. It's so nice to have one in the country that is really original.

And yes, ebay France is definitely your friend.

I do admire the perseverance! Well worth the effort.

Cheers
 
GRAHAM WALLIS said:
Glad you took my advice re BGT.
It shouldn't be that noisy, maybe check the ignition timing. It won't ping no matter far it is advanced but will run harshly if advanced too much.
Don't set for maximum revs but advance to the point where the engine stops sounding strangled but before the revs rise noticeably.
Click to expand...

The noise is not from engine harshness but largely from the exhaust. I fitted a genuine French exhaust system which has one transverse muffler. Being rather like an empty baked bean can the noise is transmitted through the wagon body. I think the problem could be alleviated by the fishtail which is fitted to the sedans but being a utility vehicle this has been eliminated in the wagon. Ah - the price of authenticity.

Regarding the smell, there is still a whiff of decaying casein plastic emanating from the light switch and gear lever surround. The rest is new vinyl and carpet.
 
Exactly the smell of my NOS steering wheel in the 1951 Renault 4CV if I leave it shut for a month. I never know whether to relish it (?) or keep the window open.

I think, apart from safety, power, better oil and air filtration and gimmics like AC, electric mirrors etc, the main improvement in cars has really been noise reduction. Our Renault R8 is great in most roles until you drive something newer! I've found the solution to that perception is to drive the old Renaults regularly. I still remember how terrible the 4CV felt when I first drove it, but now it feels sweet and smooth, driven within its comfortable limits. I expect your first drive would have been much the same.

I'll say it again, that is a lovely restoration!
 
i worry about how long a decaying covir will last, in use - can't the new ones be made to look indistinguishable? for that matter could the silencer be unseam-ed and hot-dog guts applied?
something discreetly intersposed between muffler and floor?
i know;"original is just fine and best for posterity" and amenity vs authenticity is your call,
but i like to think you could really enjoy what is a credit to you.
 
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