2007 T6 307 HDi AM6 6-speed auto problem

Hugh Venables

Hugh Venables

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Mar 7, 2012
Messages
125
Location
Ferntree Gully Vic
The AM6 in our 307 HDi has lost it's smoothness and become a bit rough. The most significant problem is that on the change from 2nd to 3rd there is a delay between 2nd being released and 3rd engaged which allows the engine speed to increase resulting in a quite violent engagement of 3rd. I have changed the transmission oil twice with no improvement. It's usually OK from the start of a trip (hot or cold) but as the trip continues the problem appears, but not always. In another thread there was a suggestion that something similar was a solenoid problem. Any ideas? It has done 190,000 km.
Thanks,
Hugh.
 
You say you've replaced the oil, twice. Do it again and ensure you are using oem fluid. If a fluid change doesn't fix your problem with an AM6, costly repair costs can be expected.
 
As much as I may be howled down, you do not need to use expensively price labelled OEM fluid (Our Expensive Marketing). Nulon or Penrite FULLY synthetic automatic transmission fluid will do the job.

I suggest you do another change which should be about 4litres.

Are you absolutely sure you put enough fluid in at the changes? It can take about 1/2 a litre more than you think it should.

ATF FS (Full Syn.)
 
Thanks Guys, There is a very comprehensive AM6 oil change thread http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/citro%EBn-forum/122802-am6-gearbox-oil-change.html on this site which recommends buying the fluid from Toyota (type IV) as they use the same box. It's about $50 for 4 litres. I've done a lot more research on other web sites and am very sure that the valve body needs replacing. Apparently the solenoid bores in the valve body housing wear and the solenoids have issues as well. I found quite a few posts with the same problem and that was the solution. The two oil changes have not made any improvement at all, in fact I think it is getting steadily worse. There is no level plug as it is not intended to be fluid changed so I was very careful to measure the volume removed and replace the same amount.
Hugh.

Actually that's not the very helpful oil change post which I can't find at the moment but a very good read if you have this problem.
 
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Hugh Venables said:
There is no level plug as it is not intended to be fluid changed so I was very careful to measure the volume removed and replace the same amount.
Hugh.
Click to expand...

Hi Hugh,
I've not done an oil change on the AM6 but understood the drain plug is similar to the AL4 a two part plug, the inner removed to check level and the outer to fully drop the oil.

Watch this video to the end to see the final check for level. Of course the 307 may differ but I can't see why it would. . .

https://youtu.be/Yqn4dC02F2s

Cheers
Chris
 
bouchon.jpg
 
Thanks Chris and Seasink. The video is in Polish so it's a bit difficult to follow. There is one drain plug inside another, the secondary plug has a tube fitted which protrudes up into the transmission. According to an auto trans specialist who is familiar with these transmissions, the correct level is achieved with the vehicle level and when the fluid level is at the top of the tube with the engine running (and I think he said in Drive). When I described our symptoms to him he quickly diagnosed valve body overhaul/replacement. He did connect diagnostics to it but there were no faults stored. It's about $2000 to fix.
Hugh.
 
Hugh Venables said:
Thanks Chris and Seasink. The video is in Polish so it's a bit difficult to follow. There is one drain plug inside another, the secondary plug has a tube fitted which protrudes up into the transmission. According to an auto trans specialist who is familiar with these transmissions, the correct level is achieved with the vehicle level and when the fluid level is at the top of the tube with the engine running (and I think he said in Drive). When I described our symptoms to him he quickly diagnosed valve body overhaul/replacement. He did connect diagnostics to it but there were no faults stored. It's about $2000 to fix.
Hugh.
Click to expand...

Hi Hugh,
Yes that is the procedure as I understand it, very much the same as the AL4. So the oil is warmed by running the car, the oil is then drained by removing the inner and outer plug, both plugs refitted then slightly overfilled with fresh oil and again warmed (I think 60 degrees is recommended so a short drive) then the inner plug only is removed and any excess oil drained. All done as you say on level ground.

Oil level is an important factor so worth double checking, as you say you replaced the same amount as was drained without checking the final level. Cheaper than a valve body rebuild :wink2:

Cheers
Chris
 
OK, it's fixed. The oil level was correct so I did a bit of ringing around and was recommended to Dave at Torqueshift in Pakenham (Vic). He likes a challenge and is happy to work on these. He removed the valve body and rebuilt it using repair kits from Sonnax. Apparently the solenoids operate in teflon lined bores. Eventually the teflon wears through and separates in the bore, causing it to stick. These kits sleeve them with what looks like brass, maybe phosphor bronze. The solenoids are crimped together, the crimp is undone and re-crimped with the replacement parts. There can also be wear in the bores of valve body and there are reamers and bushes available to correct that also. The cost was $2000 and it's back to behaving beautifully again. He did mention that the smooth shifting is achieved by the solenoids pulsing during the change, not just translating abruptly. This extra motion causes more rapid wear.
Hugh.
 
dcc236 said:
Wow, that's a huge expense given the current value of a 307.
Click to expand...

Yes, but can the car be replaced with an equivalent good condition alternative for $2000? Probably not, and now he knows the transmission is good.
 
Sounds like the same problem Im having in the 407 coupe - same box I think. But only 112000km

Looks like this is a common fault the more I read into it. But only in Pugs - why does the same box in jap cars not seem to have the problems?????????
 
jackdaniel said:
Sounds like the same problem Im having in the 407 coupe - same box I think. But only 112000km

Looks like this is a common fault the more I read into it. But only in Pugs - why does the same box in jap cars not seem to have the problems?????????
Click to expand...

Sadly there does appear to be common problems with this gearbox - a search on AM6 will of course only reveal problems with Citroen and Peugeot. This box has many designations dependent on which manufacturer is using it. These include BMW, Volvo, SAAB, Alfa, Ford, Fiat, Land Rover, Mazda being a small sample.

Searching on the specific manufacturers designation for this Aisin transmission will reveal they are all experiencing the same issues - that is these issues are not exclusive to Citroen and Peugeot.

From Wiki TF-80SC (AWF21, AF40-6, AM6, AW6A-EL) and TF-81SC (AF21)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AWTF-80_SC

Cheers
Chris
 
My C5 Comfort X7 MY2010 has never been good accelerating down hill. I use manual or sport for that. Otherwise it seems no different to my previous C5.

I just had it in the usual repair shop for a suspected leak, which was nothing. They recently changed the gearbox oil at around 40k as I drive only in the inner city. They told me after driving it that there is something wrong with the transmission and that it is slow to pick the next gear and that i should have it looked at by their transmission specialists, I think the ones above. Having once before spent 5k once on a gearbox I don't relish the expense. Just looked now at a manual Mini Cooper.... Anyway, if I got my transmission serviced for $2000, how long would that be good for?

I am still not sure that there is much wrong with mine. It's no different to how it's always been. The Pegueot 407 is a bit zippier and accelerates through the gears down hill with no problem, but I think it's a much lighter car.
 
Hi from Epping, I have the tool here to clean those solenoids if anyone wants to build the solenoids on the valve body.
 
Hi Seasink, can you please tell me if you know the part number and where I may be able to get the plug as shown in your diagram No.2 as I have changed my auto fluid and as a result damaged the head as it takes a torx socket, thanks jgigliotti@gmail.com
 
It looks like a separate part. Try a dealer. Screenshot-2.jpg

PS An Unbrako type set screw (socket head) might fit in there also.
 
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Thanks, maybe you can help me change my language to English - I have looked everywhere and for the life of me!
 
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