2004 V6 3.0L Workshop Manual

The Fixer

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Fellow Frogger
Joined
Jun 19, 2012
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192
Location
Port Macquarie
I am in dire need of a workshop Manual for my 2004 V6 3.0l Petrol engine I have not been able to find one, anyone know where I can get one?
While driving back from Sydney to Port Macquarie after 2 1/2 hours the car lost power, when I pumped the accelerator there was some improvement but that soon stopped. I pulled over, switched off the engine and waited about 1 hour before starting up again, the problem seemed to have disappeared but 1 1/2 hours later the same thing happened, pulled over, waited 1/2 hr started up again, same as before the problem had gone and I was able to drive home without any further problem.
Has anyone had this problem and if so what was the fix??
Cheers
 
Last edited:
You need to pull the codes from it first


4008
Gone but not forgotten C5 x7 3008 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
Fuel pump usually fail gradually with that symptom. There could be other cause(s), but I would start from fuel pump. Check if the pressure is up to 50 psi when the power drops.

Ikenna351 - Monk.
 
Might be a blocked cat. This can seem OK, but performance gradually deteriorates to the point the car stops. Also check if the oil has risen from unburnt fuel. If it was a misfire, the coils are commonly at fault. Sometimes, just swapping them helps. Keep a spare coil in the boot and fit the improved Delphi coils to the rear bank at least. Rear bank coils are harder to change due to the manifold needing removal. The original Sagem coils didn't last well, most were replaced, but there may still be some out there. Front bank coils are a 5 minute changeover.
 
First try should be open the fuel tank and see if the air rushes IN..... The V6 Laguna used to develop this problem due to a crushed plastic pipe vent from the charcoal filter, the plastic tank creates a vacuum that sucks up the bottom of the tank and that interferes with the petrol pump, may even break it. Short dirty fix was to leave the petrol cap off till the real problem was fixed.

Don't know if that is your trouble or not, but worth a try.

ken
 
Thanks all, hade scan done, number 2 cylinder coil faulty only problem is which cylinder is number 2. I will try the fixes mentioned and see what happens. That wont be for a while as I am going to rebuild the engine it has done 300,000kl and I think it needs it!!
cheers
 
It needs a coil common as and you don’t want to kill the cats. 2 is the middle front coil


4008
Gone but not forgotten C5 x7 3008 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
Thanks all, had scan done, number 2 cylinder coil faulty only problem is which cylinder is number 2. I will try the fixes mentioned and see what happens. That wont be for a while as I am going to rebuild the engine it has done 300,000kl and I think it needs it!!
cheers

I don't know anything about your engine (beyond what you've told us), but just because it has done 300,000 km doesn't mean that it is stuffed. The ES9J4S (V6) in my 2001 406 is still running well after 310,000km - uses no oil or water.

Compression is down a bit on a couple of cylinders, but it still has plenty of power and idles smoothly. On that basis I went ahead last year and had belts and water pump replaced - figured it was good for another hundred thousand km. Also replaced spark plugs and put newest coils at the back.

Only time it's been down on power was when it needed new coils and plugs.

Cheers

Alec
 
The XM i just replaced an engine in (cheaper than rebuild) had 495000 on it and still pulled strongly
Unless it has blown a gasket or is using oil i would worry
 
Thanks all, hade scan done, number 2 cylinder coil faulty only problem is which cylinder is number 2. I will try the fixes mentioned and see what happens. That wont be for a while as I am going to rebuild the engine it has done 300,000kl and I think it needs it!!
cheers


You don't rebuild an engine like ES engine because you "THINK" it needs it.

If you couldn't tell the cause of loss of power of your lion was non-responding ignition coil without scan report, then I doubt you can tell your engine is truly weak and needs rebuild. Cylinder Misfire & rough idle is a pronounced symptom which is so basic for someone to know (at least someone into DIY).

And just because the Bosch ME7.4.6 injection reported cylinder 2 ignition coil is bad doesn't necessarily mean it's bad. You are likely going to waste your money replacing a good working coil when you haven't completed the diagnosis. The diagnosis on that system doesn't stop on scan report, especially on ignition issue.

Like I said in the other thread, ES / PRV engines in Lions are almost indestructible. If there is no logical or factual evidence that your ES engine is weak, why go that route of touching the cylinders? Over here in Nigeria, the ES engines are Among the cheapest you can find, making it more logical to replace a weak/dead one than rebuild.

Mine is over 200,000 km and about 20 years old and still in tact.


Ikenna351, Lion King - Monk
 
Go onto public service box and you can subscribe for what info you need


4008
Gone but not forgotten C5 x7 3008 206 GTI 180 306 XR SED 405 MI16 x2 xzara VTS 406 SV 206 XT Berlingo 2011 (best car ever) 306 HDI 307 XSE HDI touring
Fix it right the first time
 
I know it's too late fro the initial problem here, but when I get the rough idle and limp mode (blown coil), I disconnect the front coils one-by-one (motor running) to see if it changes idle - if worse, that coil is OK - if no change, that's your dud coil. I change all 3 rear coils at once. I presently have NGK and they have been fine for years.
Agree with others, The last thing you'd want to do is rebuild the motor unless there's a clear compression problem. I've never gone close to topping up oil on my ES between services.
 
No I replaced the faulty ignition coil. I am having trouble with the acceleration, when I try to accelerate the engine takes a good 2/3 seconds before it responds and then very sluggish once the revs pick-up it will accelerate as normal but if I try to force a kick-down it just will not respond.
 
Before you throw more money at your problem you may want to try this. You will only have to spend a little time.
Remove your fuel filter taking care not to allow fuel to drain from the filter. Especially the INLET side so keep the INLET side of the filter uppermost. Obtain a clear glass or bottle and invert the filter into it keeping the OUTLET side uppermost. Add clean fuel into the OUTLET side of the filter and with the aid of your kissable lips blow down the outlet side of the filter. Check to see the condition of the fuel that drains into the glass. It should be reasonable clear and not muddy looking. This will not solve your problem but it will give you a fair indication if your filter is blocking. A pressure test on the fuel line will also prove this but if the problem is intermittent you can bet your sweet nothings it will tell you all is ok. Best of luck
 
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