1972 Citroën D Special- "Celia"

Today I put everything back together after my second parcel of goodies arrived!

The replacement suspension rod was perfect; an exact copy of the original and seems to be of good quality.

So, after putting everything back together and re-greasing it with some castrol LMM high pressure grease, I watched a ligarex how-to, wrapped the boot in cloth and set to work. How satisfying is ligarex!?! It's amazing!

Everything went together like a charm- and on rising to her feet again, there was no sound of a click at all! Success- arthritis cured!

The suspension boots were the Citroen ones and were fantastic as you'd expect, but the ball joint boot was the franzose one- it went on quite easily. I heated everything mildly with the heat gun first just to make it a bit more pliable but it fitted well and seems to be of good quality.

Time will tell!

I then gave Celia her 6 monthly oil change using castrol GTX 20w50 and a Purflux filter... All good for some more road tripping!

Tell you what- I don't think I've ever come across a worse car on which to perform an oil and filter change!
 
oh.. Forgot the gratuitous picture!

ImageUploadedByaussiefrogs1408008183.772839.jpg
 
You lucky duck, there was no way in hell the ones I got wanted to fit, plus new rods. I'm having pain in the a set backs, an Ipswich mob did my brake shoes, they had lost an adjusting cam off one which I immediately noticed when I got it back. Phoned them up "aw we swept up and chucked everything", so if anyone's got an old brake shoe CONTACT me please, bloody useless dheads! Easier to find with AF crowd than a brake business. Bloody hopeless. I'd name them but, useless as tits on a bull as the father would say...
good to see you're kicking goals Toby 10/10!
 
Last edited:
What a bummer! Always hard trusting others with these cars and their parts.. If only everyone was as careful and paid as much attention to detail as we do!

My last parcel arrived today.. I've learnt to split things so as to avoid customs duty after my expensive mistake last time..!

ImageUploadedByaussiefrogs1408427847.124409.jpg

2 new triaxe assemblies, boots and clips! Hopefully this will finally eliminate the shuddering under braking that Celia seems to have suffered for the last few years based on my Aussiefrogs browsing!

There is a lot of play and wear in the current housings which I'll make sure to take a comparison photo with!
 
2 new triaxe assemblies, boots and clips! Hopefully this will finally eliminate the shuddering under braking that Celia seems to have suffered for the last few years based on my Aussiefrogs browsing!

There is a lot of play and wear in the current housings which I'll make sure to take a comparison photo with!

You're probably onto the cause there Toby, but also have a good look to see if LHM is leaking past the brake pistons onto the brake pads. This will give a growling shudder as you come to a stop - just a thought :wink2:

Cheers
Chris
 
You're probably onto the cause there Toby, but also have a good look to see if LHM is leaking past the brake pistons onto the brake pads. This will give a growling shudder as you come to a stop - just a thought :wink2:

Cheers
Chris

Thanks Chris!

I'm familiar with that growl.. It's pretty severe too! I had that when the radiator was leaking and coolant was running on to the passenger side disc. Now that I've fixed that, it's no longer making that slipping type growl, but more a rhythmic thumping, almost as if the discs were warped.

My robust investigation (!) led me to the triaxes; it doesn't do it in reverse (when you're using the opposite side of the triaxe) and a warped disc would still shake no matter what the direction.

So- fingers crossed this is it. The brakes are scheduled for when I do the clutch. That's the next major mechanical work!
 
Are you doing the clutch yourself Toby?

Matthew :)
 
Are you doing the clutch yourself Toby?

Matthew :)

Matthew,

Yeah, I will. I've had trouble finding someone who can provide the professional and quality workmanship I'm after. Someone who won't keep her outside and put greasy handprints all over everything.

I'm only delaying until I have a good 4 day break from work and have found somewhere to do the job.. The single garage will have met it's match with a job like that!

I'm stockpiling cash and bits now, it's one of those jobs I want to be able to do properly and change all the other bits that are only/easily accessible with the box out (brake seals, discs, distributor housing seals etc).

I want to start making a list of what I'll need.. So gentlemen, start your suggestions!
 
If you want an extra pair of hands let me know. I could use the experience.

Matthew :)
 
Matthew,

Yeah, I will. I've had trouble finding someone who can provide the professional and quality workmanship I'm after. Someone who won't keep her outside and put greasy handprints all over everything.

I'm only delaying until I have a good 4 day break from work and have found somewhere to do the job.. The single garage will have met it's match with a job like that!

I'm stockpiling cash and bits now, it's one of those jobs I want to be able to do properly and change all the other bits that are only/easily accessible with the box out (brake seals, discs, distributor housing seals etc).

I want to start making a list of what I'll need.. So gentlemen, start your suggestions!

One suggestion I have is check the timing chain. The motor will be out, so now is the time. You can also check stuff like the bushes for the accelerator pedal, and your engine mounts. This is also the perfect time to degunk and scrub hell out of the engine compartment.
 
If you want an extra pair of hands let me know. I could use the experience.

Matthew :)

Will do! I could always use an extra set of hands!

HRE- the timing chain would be a good thing to check I'm thinking.. especially because of the difficult accessing it normally.

I've already done the engine mounts, so they're good to stay, but I also want to change the timing cover gasket etc. as well.

Keep the tips coming!
 
OK, so you're pulling the whole engine? I know Darrin of Citroen Classics does a clutch change with the engine left in and supported with a top brace.. just out of interest.

CBB3fYv.png


Matthew :)
 
Matthew,

I'm not sure yet. I was intending to leave it in.. Depends how much other stuff I need/want to change.

I'll have a really good look over the next month and make my decision then.

If I can avoid taking it out, that'll be my plan!

Thanks for the help!

Toby
 
you'll be wanting a clutch tool to align the plate onto the flywheel, crucial implement! flywheel bearing size is 15x42x13 so 15mm diameter attachment fitted onto tool to centre it, just used an imperial one with a bit of tape wrapped around it to fit, took three goes but test fitted gear box to see it was all hunky dory, went in first go thank CHRIST! probably snafu on final go... Flywheel bolts tensioned to 70nM and clutch screws to 35.
With your timing gear clean up the crankshaft sprocket to find the factory marking between teeth insitu BEFORE you remove, will require rotation of the crankshaft till the marking is pretty much in line facing out up towards the camshaft, in a straight line, this will show you the alignment for cam sprocket teeth on replacement. Mark the tooth parallel on camshaft with some paint, there is a hole between the top parallel bolts holding the camshaft sprocket and this when lined up with marking on crank sprocket will give you the timing gear alignment.
for the timing chain bizo, The tensioner can be a bit of a bugger but compressed in and slid down goes in fairly simply, worth replacing chain, tensioner and limiting device, (plate on other side of tensioner).
enjoy!

ps that D is bloody filthy ; )
 
Last edited:
It's possible to do the clutch leaving the engine in place. I've done a couple. It was the first major job I did on UFO - 15 years ago! Since then I lead the team on doing another.
 
Thanks guys- I think I'll try and leave the engine in, barring any major reason to endure the pain of removal!

Well, we're inching closer to perfection.. The driveshafts are back in! Bit of a saga really, like any job on a D!

I removed the old ones a few days ago. The drivers side- not a problem, and the housing was severely worn. Progressing to the removal of the passenger shaft, I was thwarted by nothing other than an early model shaft. Unfortunately, the triaxe housing on these shafts can't be removed until the 'star' had been pulled from the shaft! Without the citroen tool, removal in-situ appeared nigh on impossible.

Thanks which ever prior owner decided that retrofit was a good idea! So, that meant formulation of a cunning removal plan overnight- preferably one that avoided removal of the hub as well.

Next morning, plan 1 was enacted using the heat gun.. That ought to help a little! So, considering the joints were shot anyway, I didn't mind jeopardizing the Teflon bushes and heated away.

I then tried a 3 jaw puller, hammers and more heat to absolutely no avail.. And yes- the circlip was removed!

So, retire with a coffee to formulate plan 2..

With the joints unusable anyway die to wear, I checked whether or not I could fit the angle grinder in.. And I could! Even with 2 very careful cuts leaving only half the star on the shaft, it still needed that and brute force with the hammer to free it up!

Anyway, after the trauma of removal, I decided to drop them at A&F driveshafts and let the pros have a go at the refit; I didn't want to bang on them too hard without somehow isolating the outer joint.

Anyway- it ended up taking them a full 2 hours to get the new ones on even with their tools (and bigger hammers!)!

ImageUploadedByaussiefrogs1409189734.683028.jpg

I like the roller bearing design in the replacements.. Much more modern- we'll see how they go!

I also had them clean the outer joints & check for wear.. They were fine, so I admired them before re-greasing and refitting- discovering I picked up the passenger shaft for the drivers side and getting some more practice in ligarex use!

ImageUploadedByaussiefrogs1409190020.642611.jpg

ImageUploadedByaussiefrogs1409190121.240577.jpg

ImageUploadedByaussiefrogs1409190201.670296.jpg
So- clean up tomorrow and then give them a test run up to the hunter valley French car day!
 
Last edited:
Nice work Toby :headbang: :approve:

Yes please report back on the experience driving to the Hunter.
I do remember posts by the previous owner (I think) regarding replacing a drive shaft (or not).

Cheers
Chris
 
Just whip the lot out ... by the time you remove the radiator, rack, driveshafts... the thing near falls out. This will allow you to check the engine mounts, starter and timing chain.. It really is next to no extra effort and everything is so much more easily accessed once it's sitting on the floor beside the car :)

I can just imaigne how much fun it is trying to line up the gearbox through the clutch with the motor still in the car :evil: It can be bad enough when there both resting on the floor!

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Just whip the lot out ... by the time you remove the radiator, rack, driveshafts... the thing near falls out. This will allow you to check the engine mounts, starter and timing chain.. It really is next to no extra effort and everything is so much more easily accessed once it's sitting on the floor beside the car :)

I can just imaigne how much fun it is trying to line up the gearbox through the clutch with the motor still in the car :evil: It can be bad enough when there both resting on the floor!

seeya,
Shane L.

Hi Shane,

Yeah- I'm beginning to hear that; the only thing is that I've already checked the starter and replaced the engine mounts.. So if that's the not reason to pull the lot out, I'm quite confident to give it a miss!

We'll see.. I'll post the update when I get the time to change the clutch!
 
Top