1970 Peugeot 404 ute Restoration
- Thread starter marty 404
- Start date
Workshop manual for 404 injected engine would be rare beast in Oz
If it doesn't fit into your plans ( KF 2 injection different to 504 ) I would be happy to buy or swap - my 404 has KF2 injection fitted
PM me if any possibility
Best Wishes
Andrew
If it doesn't fit into your plans ( KF 2 injection different to 504 ) I would be happy to buy or swap - my 404 has KF2 injection fitted
PM me if any possibility
Best Wishes
Andrew
As has been mentioned by several posters "rustproofing" has to be an ongoing battle. Over Christmas break I decided that the 404 could do with a re-application of Lanotec (about the only 'car' thing I did over nearly two weeks) so got the kit out & squirted some more into it. Some time ago I realised there was a 'blind' section accessible only by removing blanking plugs under the front floor mats, what stopped me treating those areas before is that once removed I could see (but not get to) loads of rusty flakes within. This time I fashioned a makeshift extension to the vacuum cleaner using an offcut of garden hose & removed as much debris as I could before Lanotecing, photo shows contents of vac bin after.
Decided also to treat the 505 - it was standing next to Louis the 404th after all - All went well until having prised off the bung under the offside front wheelarch when pulling out the nozzle it was all wet (water not Lanotec). Investigation showed the front two drain slots in the sill were blocked - prob'ly been that way since car was new in '89 :-/ had to knock them gently with a hammer & drift as a wire was going nowhere in the unblocking attempt. I'll need to leave it about a month without rain before redoing the Lanotecing on this one.
Cheers Rob
Decided also to treat the 505 - it was standing next to Louis the 404th after all - All went well until having prised off the bung under the offside front wheelarch when pulling out the nozzle it was all wet (water not Lanotec). Investigation showed the front two drain slots in the sill were blocked - prob'ly been that way since car was new in '89 :-/ had to knock them gently with a hammer & drift as a wire was going nowhere in the unblocking attempt. I'll need to leave it about a month without rain before redoing the Lanotecing on this one.
Cheers Rob
Looks like you found a dead mouse in there as well
Wondered what that squeaking noise was over bumps :-/
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Yeah ha ! its painted now to start bolting everything on.
Dano helped fit the rebuilt front end and front guards the bonnet and doors where fitted but have since been removed.
Dano helped fit the rebuilt front end and front guards the bonnet and doors where fitted but have since been removed.
Hi I have been re-assembling the ute ,wow it takes some time every part needs cleaning some painting and repairing .I have had the brakes machined and relined ,fitted new master cylinder and wheel cylinders and am fixing the heater de-mister ,attached to the water flow valve is what appears to be some sort of thermostat does anyone know the purpose of this .
Marty, isn't it great to be sticking things on & not removing them??
Watch out for the backing plates! They are left & right. If you get it wrong the wheel cylinders face the wrong way. Don't ask me how I found out!
Watch out for the backing plates! They are left & right. If you get it wrong the wheel cylinders face the wrong way. Don't ask me how I found out!
Looks fantastic Marty! This is where it starts getting fun 
Hi Geodon The fuel filler collar on mine is a General Motors part that came with the ute ,my guess is that its from a Kingswood station wagon . The 404 sedans have a different system.
I stripped my dash to paint it the wiring is a mess and missing a lot of numbers so thats the next challenge .
I stripped my dash to paint it the wiring is a mess and missing a lot of numbers so thats the next challenge .
Yeah well, good luck with the wiring! My experience:
* Get a multi-meter & learn to use the Continuity Function.
* You'll need new spade terminals; use Narva ones- the generics are worse than useless- they just fall off again with only minimal provocation.
* Make sure you earth the wiper switch- if you don't you wont be able to turn the buggers off!
*Get ALL the idiot lights working before you install the dash.
* Install the U-bolt for the steering column BEFORE you install the 10mm mounting bolts for the dash & make sure the M7 studs of the U-bolt are well & truly screwed into the threaded bar. A bit of Loctite wont go astray here.
* Hook up the speedo cable BEFORE you install the dash. It will save heaps of angst trying to do it with the dash in-situ. Don't hook up at the GB end 1st.
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I have been working on all the interior parts the ute never had a fan in the heater box with the switch blanked off I found a sedan fan that works well and is quiet [bonus].
Next the dashboard ashtray and instrument surround where painted with wrinkle coat
then I set up the heater core to pressure test the first core leaked so I set up an older looking core which so far is holding water
The instrument cluster needed checking I replaced and checked all the light bulbs and holders then checked the speedo [thanks Geodon]
of three speedo,s one is seized one is shaky one is ok.
Next the dashboard ashtray and instrument surround where painted with wrinkle coat
then I set up the heater core to pressure test the first core leaked so I set up an older looking core which so far is holding water
The instrument cluster needed checking I replaced and checked all the light bulbs and holders then checked the speedo [thanks Geodon]
of three speedo,s one is seized one is shaky one is ok.
A lot has been done since the last post the 404 ute is registered and driving with a BA 7/5 gearbox and column shift running a 505 square port motor with a weber carb . I am still working through minor issues and fine tuning changing from 2nd gear to 3rd needs work and the fuel gauge does not work .How should the gauge work I have checked the earth on the new sender filled it with fuel ,still no difference when the ignition is turned on the needle does not move until you tap it then it jumps to the empty line .I have checked the voltage from wire [no 65] leading from the dash cluster to the sender and am getting 7.44 volts at the sender this makes no sense .
Should I pull the new sender from the tank and check it with a multi meter ? how should this be done ?
Marty
Should I pull the new sender from the tank and check it with a multi meter ? how should this be done ?
Marty
Wow, how did I miss this thread? Great work! I don't remember if I have your car in my 404 Club Register...?
https://recensement.leclub404.com/browse.php?type=pickup&country=AUSTRALIE
https://recensement.leclub404.com/browse.php?type=pickup&country=AUSTRALIE
Hi Marty,
The ute must be looking great now - well done! A couple of photos which you may have already seen, but of the assembly process that you are now past! Cheers, Neil
