1959 4cv Restoration in North Carolina USA

Hi Stan

Those bearings are available on Ebay's US site.
Thanks! Those bearings appear to be 22mm. The one book that listed the OD said 26mm. Are some 22mm OD?

I am trying to get the tie rod end loose so that I can install new boots for the steering rack. I tried my usual method of slackening the nut, putting a jack under the nut and hammering carefully on the steering arm. This did not work so I heated it a bit and let it cool a couple of times. It still did not come loose, so I put penetrating oil on it and left it for another day. My plan it to be patient and repeat the process a few times. Any better advice?
 
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I installed austin mini rear shocks on the front of the 4cv. There are speed bumps on our neighborhood street which give a good test for the shock absorbers. The shocks are just right - not too stiff, not too soft.

The engine leaks a little on the flywheel end, I don't think it is the gasket. The timing cover end is fine. I will get underneath the car soon and inspect it carefully.
You've done well at the timing gear end!
You can get flywheel end leaks if there is a crack in the solder that seals the joint between the sump and the internal end plate. And of course it is a slinger not a seal on the end of the crankshaft.
Good to hear re the front shocks.
 
Thanks! Those bearings appear to be 22mm. The one book that listed the OD said 26mm. Are some 22mm OD?

I am trying to get the tie rod end loose so that I can install new boots for the steering rack. I tried my usual method of slackening the nut, putting a jack under the nut and hammering carefully on the steering arm. This did not work so I heated it a bit and let it cool a couple of times. It still did not come loose, so I put penetrating oil on it and left it for another day. My plan it to be patient and repeat the process a few times. Any better advice?
Not my favourite job. Two heavy hammers, one resting on one side of the joint and a whack on the opposite side usually seems to work in the end. I have a ball joint splitter tool which I prefer, but it must be years since I did that job.
 
Thanks! Those bearings appear to be 22mm. The one book that listed the OD said 26mm. Are some 22mm OD?
My apologies Stan Mr Google changed the external size of the bearing I was searching and I didn't notice :rolleyes:


Is there a number stamped on that bearing?
 
Not my favourite job. Two heavy hammers, one resting on one side of the joint and a whack on the opposite side usually seems to work in the end. I have a ball joint splitter tool which I prefer, but it must be years since I did that job.
I to have a little taper joint/ball joint tool splitter, I have found even using the tool to apply lots of pressure to the taper you still need to use a hammer to shock the joint to make it let go in worse cases. Usually only takes one blow from the hammer instead of multiple blows before I invested in the ball joint splitter.
 
I fitted new steering rack boots to my Dauphine yesterday. I have a ball joint splitting tool as in pic. It makes the job so simple no issues getting them apart at all.
 

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I fitted new steering rack boots to my Dauphine yesterday. I have a ball joint splitting tool as in pic. It makes the job so simple no issues getting them apart at all.
I'll remember you have that neat one! Mine is much bigger and a bit unwieldy. Your brake parts should be back in Perth with Stef btw.
 
I have the type of ball joint splitter that looks like a big fork. I have not tried it because it usually ruins the rubber seal on the joint.
That's the one! Mine does too if they are very tight. I'll be talking to Mr Dauphinegordini next time I need one for tie-rod ends. :)
 
You can find that tool in el cheapo stores. It is cast steel so I guess strong enough for an old car. I think I might have one lying about somewhere. Doesn't fit R12/17 style joints (driveshaft in the way). Good for tie rod ends though.
 
I have the type of ball joint splitter that looks like a big fork. I have not tried it because it usually ruins the rubber seal on the joint.
Plus they have never worked for me only ruined the seal. I bought a big heavy commercial breaker and even that evetually bent so I welded more onto it. Works now.
 
Plus they have never worked for me only ruined the seal. I bought a big heavy commercial breaker and even that evetually bent so I welded more onto it. Works now.
Mine is a serious old Australian made professional tool (?Litchfield) and it works and doesn't bend. Doesn't matter if the boot is already buggered. It doesn't work for a seriously tight suspension balljoint, or I haven't been game to put a bigger spanner on it maybe....
 
I have used Loctite "Freeze and Release" to good effect. Works well with the two hammer method if you don't have access to a splitter.
 
Hi :)
The important thing with a taper is to shock it with a hammer blow, no matter what way you do it even with a good splitter tool. A wrecker showed me how to do a lot of dismantling only using a club hammer. :( (Remove valve springs even !!)
But I have found that having a tool to put pressure on the threaded end direct and then a hammer blow to the end of the arm around the taper will release any tight ball joint. So you direct the blow in line with the steering arm or wishbone as best you can, not at an angle as that is too springy. To assist the hammer blow to get to the correct spot I have a short piece of 1" square steel bar about 8" long that I put on the right spot holding it with vice grips and get my assistant to hit it with a club hammer heavily. Maybe twice !
Actually often you can do tie rod ends without the splitter but I am not as good these days. Never use those forked devices as they just destroy the rubber seals and also the joint itself if it is tight. Butcher jobs only. :confused:
I use this style as you can get them in at an angle and still hit the arm. ; https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ball-Jo...411999&hash=item1f0a93739e:g:US4AAOSwGHReNA68
I had to grind it a bit to get it to fit well sometimes.
Jaahn
 
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Hi :)
The important thing with a taper is to shock it with a hammer blow, no matter what way you do it even with a good splitter tool. A wrecker showed me how to do a lot of dismantling only using a club hammer. :( (Remove valve springs even !!)
But I have found that having a tool to put pressure on the threaded end direct and then a hammer blow to the end of the arm around the taper will release any tight ball joint. So you direct the blow in line with the steering arm or wishbone as best you can, not at an angle as that is too springy. To assist the hammer blow to get to the correct spot I have a short piece of 1" square steel bar about 8" long that I put on the right spot holding it with vice grips and get my assistant to hit it with a club hammer heavily. Maybe twice !
Actually often you can do tie rod ends without the splitter but I am not as good these days. Never use those forked devices as they just destroy the rubber seals and also the joint itself if it is tight. Butcher jobs only. :confused:
I use this style as you can get them in at an angle and still hit the arm. ; https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ball-Jo...411999&hash=item1f0a93739e:g:US4AAOSwGHReNA68
I had to grind it a bit to get it to fit well sometimes.
Jaahn
Yes Jaahn. Same as mine too! :)
 
My fork type ball joint separator has long since been relegated to the status of "pry bar". I will get the proper tool as you all have recommended. My "Record" valve cover was leaking a little. I used a narrowed cork valve cover gasket, but it was not thick enough. I purchased some 1/4" square rubber to make a gasket. It is working well so far. I have put 50 miles on the car just driving around the neighborhood! I think the odometer is accurate. The original transmission was a 314, the current one is a 289. Both have the same final drive ratio and both have the 5 x 13 speedometer drive gears, so it should be correct. I love the "little car, big truck" pictures.

IMG_2769Copys.JPGIMG_2771Copys.JPGIMG_2772 - Copy.JPGIMG_2774Copys.JPG
 
The "little car, big truck" reminds me of something similar. This is my second Dauphine, purchased as I was finishing up my first 4cv. $20 for the car, $20 to deliver (65 miles). It was in good shape, just no engine or radiator. Those modern trucks are MUCH bigger than the one pictured here. I had to take the front bumper off to get it to fit. I followed it home at a safe distance. The back wheels just barely fit on the lowered tailgate.
blue dlx002d.jpg
 
The depressing thing is that the modern trucks on either side of your 4CV are now regarded as normal size cars.

And we wonder why we have the occasional problem with the environment

I had to drive one today to pick up a back axle. It was like driving the Titanic

Best Wishes

Andrew
 
Does anyone know if the Dauphine speedometer is the same as the 4cv? The drive gears in the gearbox are the same (depending on tire size and final drive ratio) and the actual mechanism appears to be the same size. I have the opportunity to get a nice one with low miles for a low price. The numbers on my odometer are very faded.
dauph speed.jpg
 
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