Some of you have seen pictures of my car in the thread on repairing axle trunnions. I thought it would be a good idea to post the overall progress here. I purchased the car in mid September 2020. The car was owned by one family from 1959 to 2018. It was on the road until 1969, then stored in a farm building. The car finally changed hands when the farm property was cleared out - probably to sell it. The second owner gave up on the car when they figured out it would not be easy to get it running again. Pictures as purchased:
1959 4cv Restoration in North Carolina USA
- Thread starter Stan W
- Start date
I first went and looked at the car a year before I purchased it. I didn't intend to buy it, I just had not seen a 4cv in over 30 years. The car was about 25 miles from my home, so I couldn't resist. The following picture of my wife has kept me laughing - you can think up your own caption - she was thinking "we drove 25 miles to see this? It's not really a car is it?"
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Hooray, another Renault restoration, we've been starved of late..
An although I don't believe any 4CVs were sold in Australia in red, (although there was a terra cotta) there is now a large group of them, I expect they were repainted red as it makes the cars go faster. They need it, at least whilst standard. Yes, mine and my father in laws are both red. We will all enjoy seeing and hearing of the progress on your 4CV.
My 4cv was originally black. It was painted red in the mid 1960s, possibly after collision damage. The interior is in fair shape, but coated with nicotine. I am not sure how to clean it off the seats. The floor looked bad, buy only needed two small patches. I am sure the floor has lost a guage in thickness, but it is strong enough. I spent a week removing rust while keeping the sound metal. The brakes and pedal assembly were removed and repaired or replaced.
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So why is there a picture of a golf course here? That was taken from my back porch which is on a hill overlooking holes 10 and 18 on the golf course surrounding our neighborhood. My wife is not keen on driving the 4cv outside the neighborhood due to the "single fully integrated crumple zone" of the 4cv. The golf course here is inexpensive to join, and the owner has already given me permission to use the 4cv as a golf cart. With two passengers (not heavy ones), the 4cv weighs the same as a fully loaded two person electric golf cart.
I am getting this thread caught up to the present point, so there will be a few more posts before we get to the current state. My next task was to get the engine compartment cleaned and ready for finish paint. This has to be done before anything goes back together. The rear of the car had been hit, which mangled the rear panel. It had be fixed poorly and had to be remedied before painting the engine compartment. It took a week of hammer and dolly work along with welding to get it straight. I could have bought a new one, but shipping would be expensive. The entire panel needed a skim coat of filler and then primer surfacer.
I am getting this thread caught up to the present point, so there will be a few more posts before we get to the current state. My next task was to get the engine compartment cleaned and ready for finish paint. This has to be done before anything goes back together. The rear of the car had been hit, which mangled the rear panel. It had be fixed poorly and had to be remedied before painting the engine compartment. It took a week of hammer and dolly work along with welding to get it straight. I could have bought a new one, but shipping would be expensive. The entire panel needed a skim coat of filler and then primer surfacer.
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Not too shabby. Much better than anything I would be able to do anyway.
I would have done it much quicker though because my patience doesn't stretch to a week.
I would have done it much quicker though because my patience doesn't stretch to a week.
Nice work, keep the pics coming. 
Great Stan, much appreciate your posting this on Aussiefrogs! Love the "single integrated crumple zone".
Cheers
Cheers
Dont forget the air/windbag inside the single integrated crumple zone
They really did have advanced safety features
Andrew
They really did have advanced safety features
Andrew
I got the "single integrated crumple zone" right here on aussiefrogs! I think it was somewhere in the general thread on 4cvs. The windbag works best if you run a 6v sofica heater on 12v.
More pictures: Master cylinder and pedals reassembled, front brakes installed, shifter modified to have a bronze bushing instead of nylon, engine compartment preparation for paint, and engine compartment painted.
More pictures: Master cylinder and pedals reassembled, front brakes installed, shifter modified to have a bronze bushing instead of nylon, engine compartment preparation for paint, and engine compartment painted.
More pictures and a little history. This picture came with the car, on the back was written "our car collection".
Transmission and rear crossmember removed - this is when I knew there were problems with the axle trunnions. The SEV junior distributor has been disassembled, cleaned and lubricated. The axle trunnions are repaired better than new, and the transmission is ready for new gaskets and seals.
Transmission and rear crossmember removed - this is when I knew there were problems with the axle trunnions. The SEV junior distributor has been disassembled, cleaned and lubricated. The axle trunnions are repaired better than new, and the transmission is ready for new gaskets and seals.
Love your work Stan. Your attitude to the restoration seems like "muck in and get it done". 
This resto will be done in no time.
This resto will be done in no time.Thanks for the compliments! The last few pictures to get caught up:
Some of the many parts painted and clear coated, transmission pictures, and the Sofica. I know that everything is much more shiny than when new, but I like shiny, and the durability of a catalyzed urethane clear coat. And yes, the transmission needs clear coat before installation in the car. I bought a gallon of the less expensive clear today - for use on parts that don't see the sun very often. The exterior of the car gets a better grade of clear.
Before I install the axles on the transmission, I would like to lubricate the universal joints. They seem to have plenty of gear oil in them and no appreciable wear. I can't find any mention of a recommended lubricant. How should I lubricate the universal joints, and what should I use? I will be using a synthetic 75W-90 EP gear oil in the transaxle. Engine discussions come next.....
Some of the many parts painted and clear coated, transmission pictures, and the Sofica. I know that everything is much more shiny than when new, but I like shiny, and the durability of a catalyzed urethane clear coat. And yes, the transmission needs clear coat before installation in the car. I bought a gallon of the less expensive clear today - for use on parts that don't see the sun very often. The exterior of the car gets a better grade of clear.
Before I install the axles on the transmission, I would like to lubricate the universal joints. They seem to have plenty of gear oil in them and no appreciable wear. I can't find any mention of a recommended lubricant. How should I lubricate the universal joints, and what should I use? I will be using a synthetic 75W-90 EP gear oil in the transaxle. Engine discussions come next.....
Great work Stan. We look forward to the engine discussions!
Years ago, you could buy special grease for universal joints, almost fibrous in character. I'd use wheel bearing grease squeezed in a bit by hand maybe. They last well because they are well-protected and don't have a large angular movement. Do get new felt wipers though and preferably the rubber gaiters too.
Years ago, you could buy special grease for universal joints, almost fibrous in character. I'd use wheel bearing grease squeezed in a bit by hand maybe. They last well because they are well-protected and don't have a large angular movement. Do get new felt wipers though and preferably the rubber gaiters too.
Moly grease is what use for uni joints. High pressure, high melting point so it's the most likely grease to stay put and it doesn't readily dissolve in other petroleum products so won't wash away if g'box oil leaks on it. That's what I would use in those trunnions as well, by the way.
I would go for Moly Grease as well
Fair enough! I use Molygrease on the trunnions. Hadn't thought of the dissolving issue - nice lateral thinking!
You never washed wheel bearing grease with petrol, diesel or whatever the heck you had lying about the garage? Easy peasy. Now try to wash moly grease with such.
Thank you for the advice. Moly grease it is then! I just purchase a tub of it yesterday. The felt wipers are in very good condition, likely because they were full of gear oil. I cleaned them in petrol and blew them dry with compressed air. I will work them full of grease before installation. I am considering the rubber gaiters. It would be great if I could find an inexpensive generic CV joint boot that would work. I bought a pair of generic silicone gaiters for the steering rack. They are very good quality, fit well and cost very little. I am on a budget, but don't want to cut corners.