1951 Peugeot 203 gearbox mount replacement problem.

[geodon]

How I Overcame the Meshing Problem

Check out posts 148-156

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/restoration-projects/115151-peugeot-404-utility-project-7.html

My meshing problems were so hard I removed the gear box, torque tube, rear axle and springs & then joined everything up on the workshop floor where the meshing was a breeze.

I made a simple lifting rig with scissor jacks on dollies with castors and lifted the whole assembly into place in one piece.

It sounds like overkill I guess but it went really easily.

 

[bathst]

What i think has happened is that when i removed the original seal i thought it was a different design to the replacement as it was really just the housing and the carbon ring. But now i think the remains of the seal may still be in the diff and adding another in front of it is now causing issues with binding the shaft.Will pull it back out from the car and redo it so i can see better.Won't take long.

 

[bathst]

Sure enough that was the case. I have supported car in the middle so i could put the bare rims on and withdraw the diff out the back clear of the car. Much easier now i can see so once i took the spring out i could see the remains of the rest of the seal. The new one is now cracked across the carbon face but i have a couple of other new ones once i can find them! Will report back once i put it back together.

 

[bathst]

Easy to fix that bit. Diff now back together with torque tube on and drive shaft seems fine and is now turning etc. Next i have to pull that box down a bit to enable everything to hook back up!

 

[Russell Hall]

So far so good. Nothing better than to get back on the road.

 

[bathst]

Got the torque tube connected to the gearbox this morning. Went very well. Left it at that but will now have to mount up gearbox mount to floor. Then not too much under the car work to go!

 

[bathst]

The mount went up to the body ok but i am going to have to replace the circular steel piece that actuates the clutch (is under the car toward drivers side) I stressed it by not releasing it (2 bolts with nuts) and a section where a bolt goes thru has not ripped off so i may have to make up a template and have that bit made after grinding off the rivets etc. Not a major.

 

[Steven King]

i can't visualise that bit at all ...any chance of a photo to stop me trying?

 

[bathst]

Will take a photo later today. I think it may be possible to weld in place but it is pretty thin and looks like a pain to drop it all to access it properly if i have to remake it.

 

[Steven King]

ok, got it i think

 

[bathst]

two of the images show the broken of but ( it is two layers of steel ) Then i put the broken piece back on and the clutch does still work so may get a mate to flat a weld on to it as opposed to strip the whole thing out.

 

[pekay49]

I cannot give you any info except that 50 years ago I swapped a 203 's ,gearbox back transplant for a 403's.no problems accept i worked till very late.....had an managerial appointment in Moorabbin at 9 a.m.The gentleman who arranged the appointment with the gents who were looking for someone to manage the first cyrovac setup in Aus. said to me afterwards "Peter,What happened???.I responded....Stayed up till 4.30 doing a mod on a mates car.Oh Well.....many would have similar stories I am sure....HOPE U FIX>

 

[bathst]

Haha classic story. Yeah if i have to i can pull that whole assembly out but the clutch is working so will try and have a couple of tacks welded on.
This morning i hooked up panhard rod, shocks, brake line and handbrake cables so not much left to do though i really should replace the water pump as it is leaking sporadically.

 

[bathst]

Got the rest of the job finishes yesterday and took it for a drive. All seemed fine. Will just keep an eye on oil diff level over time. Am running Shell Omala S4 WE 150. Now i have to replace water pump so may do that today. Hopefully it goes smoothly and the frost plug is in good condition behind the impeller!