185000km service findings. 2010 c5 rhh diesel.

tasie C5

tasie C5

Active member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Messages
761
Location
St Helens Tasie
Just had a service. Advice welcome on the points the mechanic noted on the service sheet
1. New lower control arms needed. I assume the bushings are worn. New arms or replace bushings.??
2. Front struts leaking. Car still rides well no oil from under the car. Oil reservoir slightly down at low suspension level. So when to replace ?
2. Left hand handbrake cable broken. Is a replacement available?
4. Engine pendulum bushes broken. Big job to replace bushes?
Has anyone had these jobs done and are the parts easy to source.
I was surprised that there was any problem as the car starts, runs steers well and there is no "clunking" from the front end.
Comments appreciated. Allan.
 
Lower control arm bushes are a pain and need pressing. Replace the arm with the bushes included if DIY, and probably if at a workshop. A common replacement part, eg EAI.

Struts do leak very slowly, and they aren't cheap. It can be replaced while the arm is being done, if on the same side.

A new one on me. Complete auto handbrakes are $$$. I don't know if a separate cable can be fitted. You might need a second hand unit. Don't let it operate when not connected to the calipers.

I assume the pendulum bush is the ring shaped bottom mount. Readily available. The engine will rock under torque if this goes.
 
1) The extrusion that the rear lower control arm bush fits into differs between steel and aluminium subframes. The round bush at the front of the arm is available from Citroen, but the rear bush is not sold separately, hence the suggestion to buy new LCAs. You can now buy aftermarket versions of this rear bush and extrusion, but avoid the cheapies or you will be doing it again soon. Try to use Lemforder, Meyle, Sasic or similar. If you want that to last a long time and don't mind it being a little stiffer, fit a Powerflex bush (PFF12-802) to the rear of the LCA using the original arm and aluminium extrusion. Not all versions can take this bush as there may be a bracket in the way on one side - check. It will probably also need the round bush in the bottom of the front uprights and the Sasic version works here and can be fitted in situ vs buying new uprights. It has a shoulder and only goes in one way.
2) The front struts are most likely 5271L6 RH and 5271L5 LH. Top up the LDS, look for good used or buy new (from usual suspects). They are not repairable. Various nuts and bolts are regarded as single-use here.
3) There is a small plastic spacer on each of the handbrake cables where it meets the rear calipers. You should replace these as they collapse and that may be why the cable is thought to be loose / broken. A dealer can supply these and maybe also the two cable guide clips if they are broken. Likely still under 471911 X7 cable end spacer and 476939 X7/C6 cable guide.
4) If you mean the lower rear dogbone / torque link, on the RHH engine, you can change it without removing the driveshaft centre housing as was required on the earlier version to replace a bush. Or they may mean the RH upper engine mount on which the engine is suspended. It sags and lets the engine support touch the body.
 
I have the same car and had the LCAs done, as well as the top engine mount and the ´´link´´ at the same time. I think I wrote about it here.

In any case, I know some mechanics who will just not use Sasic, saying that they are fine for autobahn, stradas and routes, but put them on Australian roads, and they wear out in a year.

I am not saying that I either agree or disagree, just saw fit to report it here.
 
HELLO DAVID S. YOU WERE CORRECT RE. THE HANDBRAKE CABLE. I JACKED THE CAR UP SO THE REAR WHEEL WAS OFF THE GROUND AND TRIED TO ROTATE THE WHEEL, COULDN'T MOVE IT. SO, THE BRAKE IS ON. WITH A SUPPORT JACK IN PLACE, I GOT UNDER THE CAR AND CHECKED THE CABLE. THE CABLE END SPACER HAD COLLAPSED AND DISTORTED THE MOUNTING AREA. I THEN RELEASED THE HANDBRAKE AND THE CABLE AND END SPACER CAME LOOSE AND THE WHEEL COULD ROTATE, SO THE CABLE WAS OPERATING.
AS YOU SUGGESTED THE END SPACER WAS AT FAULT AND THE GUIDE WAS HANGING OFF THE CABLE SHEATH.
SO, THE END SPACER IS AVAILABLE EX CHINA FOR $13 LANDED OR EX TURKEY FOR $34 LANDED OR EX UK FOR $54.
NOT CHECKED A LOCAL SUPPLY YET. THANKS.
 
The Sasic bush for the bottom of the uprights is at least the correct shape. It's more a sort of rubber ball joint. I doubt any of the aftermarket items will last as well as the originals (excepting Powerflex), but if you want the original items, you have to buy each one with an expensive piece or metal attached.

The spacer 471911 will be about $10 over the counter at a dealer. The guide clip 476939 approx $5. Get 2 of each.
(Always best to confirm part numbers via your own VIN.)

1637152880029.png




Mounts for a similar C5 ... #21 is 180945 if needed.

1637153082370.png
 
just had front pads and rotors replaced on our 2010 c5 and suprise suprise no wear sensor loom pickup for drivers side also uneven wear pads down to sensor passenger side good 2.5 to 3mm left on drivers side and discs still with lots of meat go figure but the new set being under $500 most probably worth it .
The lack of a loom pickup I found curious no where to be seen in the engine bay
 
Hi Archrival :)
Yes only one sensor used now it seems on most vehicle I have done recently of several brands. Gees that wire must be expensive :rolleyes:
As you noted the wear is uneven on the pads so that one sensor may not be on the thinnest pad ???? That's called progress (by the bean counters !)
Jaahn
 
Thank you David. The diagram and parts list was what I wanted. The mechanic identified item 1806 H4, as the offending mount.
I'l try EAI as they seem to be common to various makers. I've tried to log on to the citroen/peugeot parts site and I am registered and I get on the site but now access to parts is by a fee. When I select that option nothing happens. ??
 
While checking for a leak on the suspension strut, check where the return fluid goes from the strut back to the resivoir. I had the hose leak slightly leak at that point & it was easy to replace. That rubber pipe flexes quite a bit as the wheel goes up & down & moves a lot when you raise the car for a rough road of for servicing.

Regards

agd123
 
tasie C5 said:
Thank you David. The diagram and parts list was what I wanted. The mechanic identified item 1806 H4, as the offending mount.
I'l try EAI as they seem to be common to various makers. I've tried to log on to the citroen/peugeot parts site and I am registered and I get on the site but now access to parts is by a fee. When I select that option nothing happens. ??
Click to expand...
Allan, go to BestpartsstoreUK site which gives you parts supplies/suppliers for all your needs even if you don’t purchase from there. Postage cost is ridiculous from there.
 
Thank you all. Parts ordered from the dealer. Anti torque link $106.22 handbrake spacer $9.34 each.
Went for a 200Km drive yesterday and the car handled perfectly. I expected some noises from the suspected faulty bushes in the lower control arms. I couldn't detect anything from the suspension even on an uneven road. I don't want to replace parts unnecessarily.
Is there a way I can test the faults mentioned in my service report. For instance the report said the handbrake cable had broken when it was only the plastic spacer that he'd collapsed. So i'm being cautious. Allan.
 
When my mechanic reported worn rear bushes on my lower control arms, he said you notice it when you apply the brakes and when driving over a dip such as a gutter. Sure enough, when I listened carefully when doing those maneuvers, I could hear a 'dunk dunk' noise.

These rubber in the bushes are glued to the outer and inner bush supports such that when installed correctly, the rubber is in its natural position at normal road height. It then flexes either way as the arm flexes up and down with suspension movement. Once the rubbers start to tear during this flexing, they lose their resilience and fail pretty quickly after that. If you put the car up on ramps and do some uppsy downsy with the height button, you might be able to observe the flexing of the rubber. This sort of kilometerage is pretty typical of the life of these lower arm rear bushes.

I have also had to have one bush on the outer end of the control arm replaced when it chewed out and upset the wheel alignment such that to get the car going straight ahead, you needed to drive with the steering wheel off centre. Again, this bush needs to be tightened with the suspension at normal road height. I got this repaired pretty quickly to prevent excessive wear on the front tyres.

Cheers, Ken
 
Hello Ken. I tried your test procedure and there were no noises. I also levered the arms near the bushes with a crowbar they seemed pretty solid eg no movement. Close inspection of the chassis end bush looked as if there was a small protrusion from the rubber, maybe a sign its wearing out. Allan.
 
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