Head light fuse location DS23 IE BW

keepsmiling

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Fellow Frogger
Tadpole
Tadpole
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Hi all, I am trying to find where these two fuses (red arrows) are located in the engine bay. My swiveling head lights do not operate, the relay is working however there is no power to it from the light switch. I assume these are the fuses for them.

light fuses.png
 
Those are inline fuses, you should find them up where the main loom joins the wing looms or down by the lamps themselves.

There’s no relay for the swivelling lamps, only the high beam. You need to have the high beam on then push the end of the light stalk in for the swivelling lamps to come on. The my cannot be turned on in either the low beam or side lamp positions.

Is there power on the mauve wire at the headlight switch?
 
I had a good look around for loose fuse holders, only one I could find was an aftermarket one for the fuel pump.

This relay is wired to them, may have another look tomorrow.
IMG_20230406_131204604.jpg
 
I didn't realise that pushing the light stork in was a on/off switch, I thought it was a momentary switch for flashing the hi beam, I have a lot to learn about the operating this car...lol

I worked out how to operate the trumpet horns, how is the regular horn operated...lol
 
Usually the horn switch (as in the SM and CX) is a two stage switch with the initial movement bringing on the booper horn and then further movement bringing in a big blast from the air horns. Sometimes the operation of this switch looses its nice controllable progression with use and ageing. Maybe your booper horn or circuit has gone open circuit or the internal points on the sounding circuit breaker need a clean up.

Cheers, Ken
 
I didn't realise that pushing the light stork in was a on/off switch, I thought it was a momentary switch for flashing the hi beam, I have a lot to learn about the operating this car...lol

I worked out how to operate the trumpet horns, how is the regular horn operated...lol
In practice you will find on the open road that a push IN of the driving light switch and leaving it there while using the fore and aft movement of the headlight switch lever for low to high beam will be most useful. The driving (swivel) lights will then turn on and off in coordination with the high beam.

No one needs the faffing about of low > high > driving then back again.
 
Usually the horn switch (as in the SM and CX) is a two stage switch with the initial movement bringing on the booper horn and then further movement bringing in a big blast from the air horns. Sometimes the operation of this switch looses its nice controllable progression with use and ageing. Maybe your booper horn or circuit has gone open circuit or the internal points on the sounding circuit breaker need a clean up.

Cheers, Ken

It seems that the trumpet horn sounds almost immediately after (or probably during) the regular horn, which then drowns out the regular horn but to the ear (my ears anyway) just sounds like the trumpet horn. I guess the (slide?) switch at the end of the stork needs attention.

In practice you will find on the open road that a push IN of the driving light switch and leaving it there while using the fore and aft movement of the headlight switch lever for low to high beam will be most useful. The driving (swivel) lights will then turn on and off in coordination with the high beam.

No one needs the faffing about of low > high > driving then back again.

Is there anything on the dash that shows it's in hi beam mode?
 
In the warning lamp cluster there’s a blue high beam warning light at about 11 o’clock. Often the lens has darkened with heat and age to become almost totally opaque.

Inside the indicator switch is a brass strip that gets bent to progressively activate the horns. Is it possible that the horns are connected the wrong way around?
 
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The high beam indicator does not seem to illuminate at all, well I couldn't see it anyway. When I push the light swith stork forward all the lights except the parking globes go off.

Another mystery (the horns) that need resolving.
 
I'm going to ask the dumb question here .... have you turned the turning lights on? From memory you push on the end of the light switch lever... Its a long time since I've driven a 3rd nose DS of a night :clown: ( its unlikely you would this it unless someone pointed it out).
 
apologies if im telling you to suck eggs, but .....

headlight switch has three turn positions

1 off
2 alternate high beam and park
3 alternate high and low beam.

turn the switch to select the different positions

push/ Pull the switch back and forth for hi and low beam.

Spot lights, (the turning ones)

Place your finger on the end of the switch and push inward toward the centre of the car. You should feel a definite click as the switch engages. Spots only work with hi beam.

Spots have separate inline fuse located near the plugs at the top of each front guard.

From memory, high beam has a fuse in the main fuse block, low beam not fused. (depending on year and model).

If lights not working, first check the earth wire at the base of each front guard.
Then check voltage to each beam at the bulb. Then check plugs at top of each guard. these should be colour coded but they will fade over time or get dirty. After that, check the fuses, and then the light switch, easier to lift the switch out and check terminals behind switch.
 
I've discovered the issue. It was the large rusty loose nut behind the steering wheel, also known as user error....lol

I thought that spot/swivel lights stayed on with the low beam lights....:rolleyes:
 
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Even a 'rusty nut' needs to know where those inline fuses are though.....
 
Some people add relays for the headlights because the control switch is not really up to carrying the current for hours on end. It tends to overheat and the contacts eventually sink into the plastic and it jams or fails to make contact. The switch can be very confusing for someone new to it.

Without the in-line fuses, I don't think the the inner headlamps are fused on a later model like the DS23. Any aftermarket relays added in really want their own fuse on the relay supply.

The horn has 'town' and 'country' functions. A DS23 should have air horns as the 'country' horn and it incorporates a relay next to the horns. The wire from the battery had a sheath when new, but it could have been damaged or replaced, so adding an inline spade fuse heare the battery is likely a good idea for this also.

For each guard, there is a a brown wire at the front that connects to a pigtail screwed to the chassis. You want to be sure it's connected and making a good earth.
 
It might be helpful reading this thread from 2011.
 
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