Incorrectly connected battery - Now no crank, no start - 2007 407 2L HDI

D

dcc236

Active member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Oct 26, 2014
Messages
735
Location
Gympie, QLD
I removed the battery from my car (2007 407 2L Hdi) yesterday and put it on a battery charger overnight.

I was half asleep when I reconnected the battery this morning and I reversed the polarity. Yes I connected the green earth cable of the car to the red positive side of the battery and the red lead on the car to the negative terminal of the battery.

I got sparks and a lot of heat coming from the positive side of the battery, the earth cable of the car.

It must have been connected this way for 10 seconds before I realised what I had done.


After correctly connecting the battery, I now get no crank & no start.

I know very silly (happy to accept the dumb ass of the month award). Any ideas on what I have damaged and what I need to do diagnose and fix this.
 
Have you checked every fuse ?

Sometimes electronic items have parallel connected protection diodes which are designed to conduct on reverse polarity and "blow" the fuse.

The alternator may have main diodes destroyed, unless the main charging lead is fused.

It could be a little or lot destroyed or somewhere in between, however 10 seconds is a long time to maintain reverse polarity.

I'd start with a full fuse check and go from there.
 
I checked all fuses, they are all ok. Since posting this, I have realised I get no power to any of the fuses (even though the fuses themselves are fine) in the glovebox. What the hell have I destroyed?
 
In my 2l Hdi (2007) 307s (same engine), there are some big fuses in the box with the ECU in the engine compartment.

It should be the box behind the battery.

I would disconnect the battery before checking them.

Cheers
Roland

:banana:
 
For clarity, I have checked the fuses in the engine bay, glove box and in the boot. All fuses are good. The entire fuse box in the glovebox does not have any power to it when the ignition is on, the other two test fine.
 
Is there an engine bay fuse box, with maxi style fuses ?

Or even fusible links?

I have no specific knowledge of your vehicle.
 
You may have damaged the alternator diode pack, not going to be good to starting a modern car looking for voltage, diodes would have been forward biased. As mentioned check why internal fuses do not get power.

I would hope any electronics was input protected, I am always glass half full positive though.
 
You may have burnt the battery out as you have connected the positive terminal directly to earth. Have you checked the voltage on the battery? The battery also needs to be load tested as well will it start another car? If the battery is good you will need to get a 12 volt test light from Supercheap & connect it to earth & follow your wiring from battery to your starter prodding your test meter into the wiring to see if it light up. If it doesn't then you may have burn't out a wire or it may have an in line fuse in the wiring.
 
Do you have ignition lights that come on when you turn the key on? First thing is to check your battery is ok before you look for other problems. If you have jumper leads u can connect the earth lead to the chassis & the positive lead direct to your positive terminal of your starter or positive side of your starter motor or positive side of your starter solenoid that goes to your starter & see if the engine cranks over. Or you can put a screwdriver across the terminals of the starter solenoid & that will crank the engine over if you still have all wiring & fuses intact.
 
robmac said:
Have you checked every fuse ?Sometimes electronic items have parallel connected protection diodes which are designed to conduct on reverse polarity and "blow" the fuse.
Click to expand...
Many relays on modern cars include similar diodes which prevent the voltage ringing when they are turned off. Same situation diodes will conduct a big current if connected reverse polarity which will take out fuses, and they can be damaged before the fuse responds and remain short circuited so even when the polarity is corrected the relays still wont function (may or may not blow fuses still) so you need to check each relay coil on the faulty circuits for correct resistance.
 
You have probably fried your BSI as I did on my 2004 C5 HDI. Not sure how similar these are but I was able to repair a couple. I had blown most of the power connections to the lights, door locks, radio etc. I also repaired a 307 2002 that had done the same with issue. Once repaired a error clean up with Lexia/Planet and no further problems

Sent from my SM-G900I using aussiefrogs mobile app
 
The reversed battery will meet a lot of conducting diodes on its way to self destruction. The BSI and engine ECU are both vulnerable as well. I suggest you start by removing the battery and check that it is still working. Disconnect the alternator output and measure the resistance to ground in both directions to see if the diodes still exist. There are big fuses hidden under the BSI on some models.
A Lexia will quickly tell you if the BSI or ECU are stuffed and if the +12 exists or is going anywhere.
You need a very patient auto electrician.
 
Battery is confirmed stuffed, only 9v and 71cca from a one year old 750cca battery. Will put it on the charger.

I have a new battery.
Ignition comes on, as do all dash lights, headlights & radio also work.
Interior lights do not, nor do the front windows, rear windows can only be opened and closed using rear door switches, central locking only unlocks drivers door.
Still no crank and no start.
Still getting no power to the fuse box in the glovebox - is this the BSI you refer to?

Can't do a Lexia scan, my windows notebook has died, again. Anyone in the Bellbowrie area have an XP notebook I can borrow?
 
As I mentioned the first thing to check is your battery. Even a brand new battery wont like being connected positive directly to earth it wouldn't be that hard to blow a cell & you lose 2 volts automatically. I still reckon the best way is to check your wiring from your battery with a test light the old way to see where your power stops to your fuse box at the glove box. If you have even one blown fuse your scan could show a multitude of problems tat could be connected to just one fuse or one part. here is a link about corrosion to BSI which will give you an idea of what you are looking for, It sounds like it controls the functions that you have that are not working too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6i9Iqvoj_w
 
Update: Yes, battery is stuffed. Looks like I am not the only person to incorrectly connect the battery to their Pug/Citroen. Dimi (Dimistyle on the forum) offers a repair service to the BSI for fools like me. He has my BSI and is going to attempt a repair over the next few days. Fingers crossed this gets me going again.
 
Ok update from the BSI perspective. The 2008 BSI uses all surface mounted components (SMD) which I don't have the eye sight to work on and replace. Just tracking down someone that has these skills.

As far as I can tell the BSI's actual design has not changed its just the components are getting smaller! !

Dave leave it with me I'll tracked down the components and tech to do the work....so exciting finding a better solution than replacing BSI, ECU, keys, new coding, programming and dealer headaches.




Sent from my SM-G900I using aussiefrogs mobile app
 
I don't have the eye sight to work on
Click to expand...

Get yourself a big table magnifier and couple of 7 watt daylight led mirror back lamps.

I can successfully work on SMT electronics with this rig and my eyes are far from pristine.

You will need a reflow system with a vacuum pump to remove solder. Solder wick and solder suckers don't work well on SMT.

You can end up with the component being desoldered inside solder sucker :eek:
 
Thanks Dimi, not sure what I would have done without your guidance on this one.

dimistyle said:
Ok update from the BSI perspective. The 2008 BSI uses all surface mounted components (SMD) which I don't have the eye sight to work on and replace. Just tracking down someone that has these skills.

As far as I can tell the BSI's actual design has not changed its just the components are getting smaller! !

Dave leave it with me I'll tracked down the components and tech to do the work....so exciting finding a better solution than replacing BSI, ECU, keys, new coding, programming and dealer headaches.




Sent from my SM-G900I using aussiefrogs mobile app
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top