DS lost her bounce

Pallas74

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Fellow Frogger
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Sep 14, 2015
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Location
London, UK
Hi. While I'm waiting for some expert assistance I thought I'd ask for some opinions. Front of my D is rock solid. New spheres didn't solve it. Rises and lowers as you'd expect. Seems to drop a little at the front when driving then when stopped raises a bit at the front on the next pump cycle. Ride isn't smooth and floaty but clunky and rough over potholes and the like. I can bounce the back of the car easily but cannot move the front. Any thoughts on what I should check. Planning on getting wings and hubs off to check everything but be good to know if any one has been here before. Thanks!
 
Are the spheres 'new' new or 'used' new? Have you had them checked by Darrin at Citroen Classics or Plaeides?
 
Are the spheres 'new' new or 'used' new? Have you had them checked by Darrin at Citroen Classics or Plaeides?

Paul at Pallasauto replaced the old ones from Darrin. Theyre original style and look new so refurb and regassed I guess. Symptoms not changed.
 
When you first start it up and the front rises, does the front suspension move up and down nicely by hand?

If so I'd check the 11mm bolts holding the front height corrector in place are tight (take the shield off once the LH wing is off). Then check the clamp that holds the rod on the anti roll bar (i.e. the rod that transmits movement from the anti-roll bar to the height corrector). I've had the clamp move because it wasn't tight enough which puts the front up higher and makes the front hard. The end of the rod at the HC end is brass and it wears, needs grease.

Cheers

Marc
 
Check the front height....

I wouldn't trust any sphere. You need to test the gas pressure yourself. And pull the removeable valve and and check how it's shimmed.

I think you will find the front is sitting to high, and the front of the car does not readily self level though............... this == sludged up front height corrector. Fortunately a simple cost free fix :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 
At normal ride height there should be about a hand's width of height between the top of the front tyre and the top of the mudguard (wing) arch. At the rear the centre of the wheels should be aboout in line with the bottom of the mudguard (wing).

Roger
 
At normal ride height there should be about a hand's width of height between the top of the front tyre and the top of the mudguard (wing) arch. At the rear the centre of the wheels should be aboout in line with the bottom of the mudguard (wing).

Roger

"Fender", Roger. You forgot "fender". :tongue::roflmao:
 
I do have a Fender guitar, but it is a BG-32 acoustic bass. It might have a short scale but it is the only acoustic bass I have ever played that sounds any good without amplification. I suppose my Yamaha 12 string electric guitar does have a Stratocaster shape.

But yes, I am more of a Rhodes man.

I am definitely not a Gibson man. The rhythm guitarist in a band I was once in used to leave his Les Paul at my place on occasions. I could not get excited about it.

Roger
 
So I should take up guitar and stop worrying 😀

Thanks for the replies and the links. Just to clarify in case were going off piste. Car rises normally. Responds to manual height adjustment fine. Did once not drop down at front from high but put car up and down and has been fine.

Front drops down a bit during driving and rises back to normal when stopped at lights etc. Front has no cushiony bounce from start to end of journey. PA checked pressures of old spheres not sure they checked new but will swap these as a test as soon as I can get near another DS that's got the bonnet open! Can also take a look at the front HC. But car not sticking in the up position so presumably return pipe is clear?

Thanks again all very useful. I'd been thinking mechanical, something stuck not blocked pipes.

Pete
 
So, you've changed the spheres and there was no change in the behaviour??? It's unlikely both sets of spheres were dead flat or had blocked dampers, so you'd have to be thinking either the ride height is wrong and it's up against the stops or there is some mechanical issue such as a frozen arm bearing or the roll bar has shifted sideways and binds on the chassis.
 
Maybe the expert remembered to paint the spheres but forgot to add the gas? You would be surprised how often stuff like that happens.
 
So, you've changed the spheres and there was no change in the behaviour??? It's unlikely both sets of spheres were dead flat or had blocked dampers, so you'd have to be thinking either the ride height is wrong and it's up against the stops or there is some mechanical issue such as a frozen arm bearing or the roll bar has shifted sideways and binds on the chassis.

Hi David. Car rises further with manual lever. Presumably that takes it to the stops? If I take wing off and plate over suspension then I guess I can check roll bar and movement etc. Could a frozen arm bearing be tested in some way?
 
Maybe the expert remembered to paint the spheres but forgot to add the gas? You would be surprised how often stuff like that happens.

Brilliant, nicely painted though. I'll see if I can swap from a mate's D and check them. Do seals need to be renewed swapping back and forth like that?
 
Maybe the expert remembered to paint the spheres but forgot to add the gas? You would be surprised how often stuff like that happens.

Hi again! Reading the link above to car being stuck on high I saw you replied at the time (2 1/2 years ago!) and mentioned that if on low you can't move the front spheres then the susp tubes might be bound. Can I ask what that means?
 
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