11BL rear window gasket

citroenthusiast

citroenthusiast

Well-known member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Apr 27, 2014
Messages
1,122
Location
Phoenix, Arizona USA
What is the procedure for replacing the rear window gasket and is there a good way to remove a hardened old gasket without breaking the rear window?
 
Assuming you don’t want to reuse the old one, I woukd just carefully trim the inner gasket flange off with a sharp knife and then push/pry the glass out, which should be a lot easier than trying to fold the inner flange over the frame.

install the new gasket, insert a decent string (I use a washing line as it is strong and coated and thick enough to not cut the new gasket when you are pulling it through) into the gasket where the frame will sit and overlap the string ends by about a foot

Smother the whole lot in lots of soapy water and while a second person gently pushes the glass, pull the string through from the inside of the car.

the seal should fold over the frame quite easily - if it gets too hard something isn’t right. It’s quite a satisfying job.

good luck. Sven
 
Hi John! I use a caulking gun with a suitable silicone sealant such as 'Sikaflex' (cannot remember the grade number ). I mark the screen with a felt pen while holding it in place with the interior trim bezel and suitable blocks of wood to centralise the glass. Then I remove the glass, mask around the felt pen line on the glass and also the desired edge on the window aperture of the roof. Once this prep is done I place the glass in position with a substantial bead of 'Sikaflex' and refit the interior bezel trim to hold everything in place, I check the alignment from the outside to make sure the glass has not slipped ( using the masking tape on the glass as a guide ). I remove excess sealant ( a wooden spatula of suitable size ), smooth the seam with a finger dipped in turpentine, remove the masking tape for a nice clean line and leave it overnight to cure.
This system replicates the original fitting methods used in the manufacture but with modern compounds will produce a durable and leak proof solution!
 
Last edited:
gerrypro said:
Hi John! I use a caulking gun with a suitable silicone sealant such as 'Sikaflex' (cannot remember the grade number ). I mark the screen with a felt pen while holding it in place with the interior trim bezel and suitable blocks of wood to centralise the glass. Then I remove the glass, mask around the felt pen line on the glass and also the desired edge on the window aperture of the roof. Once this prep is done I place the glass in position with a substantial bead of 'Sikaflex' and refit the interior bezel trim to hold everything in place, I check the alignment from the outside to make sure the glass has not slipped ( using the masking tape on the glass as a guide ). I remove excess sealant ( a wooden spatula of suitable size ), smooth the seam with a finger dipped in turpentine, remove the masking tape for a nice clean line and leave it overnight to cure.
This system replicates the original fitting methods used in the manufacture but with modern compounds will produce a durable and leak proof solution!
Click to expand...
I was wondering why John asked how to install a screen with a standard rubber gasket … 😄 He is usually far too clever for simple thinks like that! Now I get it - the BL doesn’t have a rubber gasket… learning every day… 👍
 
Hotrodelectric said:
Aye, thanks, Gerry. I've never really looked at one. My first clue should have been "French"! :mallet:
Click to expand...
British Tractions were done the same way, Bill!
BTW many thanks for the advice given on 6 volt wiring! It all worked out superbly and looks almost the same as the original, only more efficient!
 
gerrypro said:
British Tractions were done the same way, Bill!
BTW many thanks for the advice given on 6 volt wiring! It all worked out superbly and looks almost the same as the original, only more efficient!
Click to expand...
Are you sure that was me? That might have been John. I don't remember talking about anything 6 volt... :blush:
 
gerrypro said:
Hi John! I use a caulking gun with a suitable silicone sealant such as 'Sikaflex' (cannot remember the grade number ). I mark the screen with a felt pen while holding it in place with the interior trim bezel and suitable blocks of wood to centralise the glass. Then I remove the glass, mask around the felt pen line on the glass and also the desired edge on the window aperture of the roof. Once this prep is done I place the glass in position with a substantial bead of 'Sikaflex' and refit the interior bezel trim to hold everything in place, I check the alignment from the outside to make sure the glass has not slipped ( using the masking tape on the glass as a guide ). I remove excess sealant ( a wooden spatula of suitable size ), smooth the seam with a finger dipped in turpentine, remove the masking tape for a nice clean line and leave it overnight to cure.
This system replicates the original fitting methods used in the manufacture but with modern compounds will produce a durable and leak proof solution!
Click to expand...
Interesting, I would never have thought of gluing the glass to the rubber before fitting!
 
When I siliconed mine in, there was no rubber gasket. I just cleaned off the old mastic and followed Gerry's process.
 
bleudanube said:
I was wondering why John asked how to install a screen with a standard rubber gasket … 😄 He is usually far too clever for simple thinks like that! Now I get it - the BL doesn’t have a rubber gasket… learning every day… 👍
Click to expand...
The adhesive on my car was hardened and apparently painted over at least once, so it was difficult to tell what it was. I've never seen a bonded window that didn't sit inside a pinch weld. I am still trying to carefully cut away the ancient mastic but will use a polyurethane windshield adhesive to re-set the window.
 
gerrypro said:
Shane there is no rubber. It was all done with a caulking adhesive compound in a similar manner to modern bonded windscreens!
Click to expand...
I'll be damned .... Why hasn't it fallen out I wonder? Even CX's has there rear quarter windows fall out after a short time. I wonder if the one here leaks :unsure:
 
DoubleChevron said:
I'll be damned .... Why hasn't it fallen out I wonder? Even CX's has there rear quarter windows fall out after a short time. I wonder if the one here leaks :unsure:
Click to expand...
They don't fall out because the inner trim bezel also locks in the glass. There is also a ply framing hidden under the headling. They do however age the compounds and begin to leak. First sign is a stained headlining.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top