Getting to know my new 07 C4 HDi - with your help please

D

davway

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
May 27, 2012
Messages
67
Location
Warrnambool
Have just got an 07 C4 HDi 1.6 manual and just wanted a bit of help here and there, a "get to know you" so to speak.
This is my first Citroen, this is my first turbo diesel as well so everythings a bit new to me.
The first question i have and ive read about it but not really how to fix it, is the scuttle panel under the windscreen has dropped - how do i go about re-securing it?
It is going in for a new windscreen next week, so do i just leave it and they will fix it all up?

Im sure theres plenty of other things i want/need to know, so im happy for anyone to post things i need to know or look out for.
Thanks
 
Oh and im also after the Turbo heat shield as mines cracked too.
Where is the place for secondhand/wreckers and also new parts that everyone uses?
 
Welcome to AF. The windscreen fitter should be able to put the panel back. I'll leave it to Victorians to mention local recyclers, though French Connection is a forum sponsor. Another sponsor Dapco sells parts.

For replacement parts, correct filters, etc in Melbourne, try EAI: European Auto Imports. Dealer prices in Australia can induce heart attacks, and you'll find many of us here have found alternatives like ebay sellers and overseas sources for smaller parts.

For the makers mechanics' handbooks, there are:
2005, in English, http://service.citroen.com/dtt/CDP/donnees/en_US/en_us_t2_2005.zip
2007, in French, http://service.citroen.com/dtt/CDP/donnees/fr_FR/2007_c4/c4_2007.zip (usually a bit fuller)

For the famous Haynes manuals, Product: Citroën C4 Petrol & Diesel (04 - 10) 54 to 60

If you have some French the number of useful documents increases. Learn to ignore silly remarks from half-trained mechanics who think all things Cit must be weird - mechanically the C4 is the same as similar sized Peugeots, and the C4 suspension is conventionally sprung. It's a clever design using standard bits.

Look up the correct oil for the diesel and use it - it's important. The same with filters. Check if the timing belt is due and done, otherwise replace it now. A broken belt is an engine destroyer.
 
Being a manual rather than an EGS, it will not have a particle filter to worry about and so the low SAPS oil is not actually essential. However, you must change it regularly and realise the sump capacity is not that large, so keep it well over the minimum mark. There was in fact a revised dipstick, so you might check on that. With proper synthetic oil and largely country driving you might well be OK with the original 20K oil change interval, but 10K was what they ended up with later on. That engine is an excellent unit, but not very tolerant of neglect.

If the windscreen is being changed, glue the retainer strip for the scuttle vent to the bottom of the screen before it goes in. You might get a new one with the glass. Some people will place a foam block under the vent panel to support it. They easily slip off the glass and allow the scuttle vent to drop, which lets water reach the engine. The overhang of the glass means you do not want to lean on the bottom of the glass or you can crack it.

You may not find good used heatshields as you will not be alone there. Perhaps repair what you have or buy new parts? There are two parts to it from memory.

The air box support rubbers wear out and it makes a lot of noise as it shakes about. There are three in total. They are on eBay and that's probably the least expensive way to buy them.

Have a look at the air mixer valve too. They often leaked when near new and the fix was to seal with sealant, so the smears of black goo you may find do not necessarily mean it's been bodged.

Good cars, but don't neglect the oil changes.
 
Thanks for the replies so far.
Managed to get hold of a new heat shield through Citroen Centre as well as a hubcap that was missing.
I did have a look at teh airbox and that will need some attention too - possible one of the rubber.
the inlet pipe is really loose so ill have to pull it apart and check it out so ill replace the filter while im there.
I did read about a water trap on the fuel filter that should be drained - can someone point out where that is?
 
The filter is on the transmission side of the engine, under the two air ducts. Here is my French manual for purging water. With a new purchase I'd consider a new filter.
Screenshot-15.jpg

Youtube has many vids showing routine maintenance on these cars. If don't find one in English, translate the search terms to French.
 
Probably should warn you about the glovebox lid. If you leave things on the left side, where there is little room, and then slam it closed, you can pop one of the hinges. They are just spring clips, but if you do that it will be misaligned, very difficult to open and it's then easy to snap off the handle. Don't ever force the handle as the lids are expensive to replace.
 
Good to know about the glovebox - ill check that as it seems harder to shut.
So looks like i may as well do all the filters and the scuttle at the same time since it all has to come apart anyway, that makes it a little easier i guess.

There is also a material heat shield resting against the back of the engien - looks likes its from the firewall maybe - does this usually come off or is it from teh Scuttle panel?
 
Hi Davway,

check out the excellent C4 website in the UK. Has lots of useful info and tips, q & a, etc.

Everything Citroen C4 and DS4 - C4 - DS4 Owners

I too have a 08 C4 diesel 1.6 EGS model. Great car although not without its surprises.

- Front wheels get covered in brake dust.
- plastic strips on top of the doors tend to warp, as does the black strip on top of the rear window.
- replacing the battery or headlight globes is a nightmare.
- front windscreen is huge and difficult to keep clean especially inside. Also the dashboard top attracts a lot of dust.

On the plus side, with my diesel, I am getting 1200 kms from a tank with conservative driving, and usually around 4.7litres/100km. You'll be impressed with the fuel economy!

Hope the windscreen works out. I had to get mine replaced and the replacement screen that NRMA brought was the wrong type. It was the right shape but the fitting for the interior mirror was different and couldn't be changed. So I ended up with a genuine Citroen windscreen replacement. On that subject, it might be worth adding glass replacement to your insurance policy, especially if you have the roof window on your car.

regards
Glenn
 
Ok guys, really need some help here on this one.
Drove the car home Sunday, 200km and all was fine, 5km from home, went through an 80kmh zone, then back into a 100kmh zone but the car wouldnt get past 80km.
So, it doesnt rev past 3000rpm, the AntiPoluution fault was showing but later cleared itself.
havent had teh chance to drive it since apart from this morning.
Car starts and runs fine but still has no power and wont go over 3000rpm.
It is sitting at the mechanics and he has cleared all teh codes and the only one that keeps coming back is Code 1351, whichj is Glow plug Relay.
Still wont go past 3000rpm after clearing all other codes.
I did notice that there was no preheat symbol on teh dash, so this would expalin why.
However, would this fault code still cause the car to be in Limp mode and would replacing the relay (clearing the code again) fix it?
Where would be the best place to get a relay from in Australai as well.
Thank you in advance
 
If you can't rev high standing still ignore this - but were you using cruise control? Have you activated the speed limiter - 80 kph is a common set speed.

3000 rpm limit is likely to be a computer fault response.

You aren't going to see much of 4000+ rpm anyway - it is a diesel.
 
Last edited:
I checked the limiter wasnt on. pretty sure it isnt.
Its gutless as, straight off the bat, its definatley in Limp home mode.
I will replace the fuse but i dont see how it could put it ino limp mode though and theres nothing else to suggest why it is
 
Fuel filter perhaps? Last changed when?
Less likely are MAP sensor and Turbo vacuum.

For problems with the cruise control, try running the thumbwheels back and forward 30 times to clean the contacts.

The air box rubber part number should be 1422A3.
 
Ok just drove it home from the mechanics, luckily only 300m away.
starts and idles fine but has absolutely no go at all. Couldnt even get it over 20kmh now and it wouldnt go past 1000rpm when driving.
Standing it will get up to 3000rpm and bounce off the limiter.
I will put a video up shortly (hopefully) of it running.
Sometimes its nice and quiet, the next rev theres an awful rattly metal sound.
Im lost as to what it is.

The car has a full service history - every six months without fail.
It is a high km car but it ran fine for the first 200km and then it just went into limp mode.
 
Are you confident about the fuel quality? Had you just filled it before the problems?
What happens if you open the fuel cap? Could there be a blocked vent?
Is the rattle from the head? It has a top timing chain with its own tensioner.
Has the turbo failed? i.e. snapped at the shaft. Pull the hose off at the side and have a look if in doubt.
 
Well that pretty much eliminates everything else right there with the noise its making, lack of power and the fact it has massive play in it both sideways and back and forth.
Thats a real kick in the guts, first turbo Diesel and it shits itself the day i buy it.
And it only needs front pads and rotors for a RWC too.

So can i get out of this buy just replacing the core or is it going to be the whole lot?
Really dont have the budget for this.
Any secondhand ones even?


IMG_0520 (Large).jpg
 
Have the vanes actually been contacting the turbo body? Is there damage to the vanes?
The shaft may feel like it can wobble about a bit, but still be quite OK. What does 'massive play' mean?

Even with the turbo disabled, the car should still be quite driveable, just a bit slow off the mark. It may not be your problem and you'd change the fuel filter before leaping into a turbo job.
 
The turbo can move that much the vanes can touch the body freely. it moves in and out about 2mm. The vanes are bent from touching.
im uploading a vid at the moment that i will post
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top