1.6 HDI Oil Lubrication and Maintenance. Avoiding Problems.

Its actually the regeneration mapping / phase that burns off the soot in the DPF filter with the High pressure injection which is utilised to inject fuel into the exhaust gasses during the post injection period. This casues the temperature to increase to a high enough level to oxidise particles in the filter leaving and ash residue and the Eolys Cerium based fluid assits and increases the efficiency of this process. This is ECU controlled.

not quite right. The eolys in fact makes it possible that the combustion of the particles can take place at 450°C instead of 650°C. Therefore lowering the amount of energy and time necessary to clean out the DPF.

As I understood, in the new 1.6hdi they have abandoned the eolys and have started to use the normal self cleaning dpf system... but I may be wrong on that one.
 
As I understood, in the new 1.6hdi they have abandoned the eolys and have started to use the normal self cleaning dpf system... but I may be wrong on that one.
I don't think so - the Euro V upgrade has tweaked a large number of bits on the engine, but it still has the Eolys fluid, AFAIK.
 
Wynns Formula Gold Diesel

10] Optional but highly recommended: Add Wynns Formula Gold diesel into a full tank of fuel. I use this and it works extremley well and does exactly what is says on the box. Reduces carbon, cleans injectors, increases performance and economy and its Cerium based like the Eolys fluid so its compatible with the FAP [ DPF Filter ]


Does anyone know where I can buy Wynns Formula Gold Diesel or a similar alternative in Australia? Supercheap autos do a separate fuel system and injector adative.

Thanks in advance
 
10] Optional but highly recommended: Add Wynns Formula Gold diesel into a full tank of fuel. I use this and it works extremley well and does exactly what is says on the box. Reduces carbon, cleans injectors, increases performance and economy and its Cerium based like the Eolys fluid so its compatible with the FAP [ DPF Filter ]


Does anyone know where I can buy Wynns Formula Gold Diesel or a similar alternative in Australia? Supercheap autos do a separate fuel system and injector adative.

Thanks in advance

Well to start with I use anyone else first before Supercheap Auto, they stock what HQ decides and the staff generally have NFI beyond car mats and seat covers. Walking distance to me is a Burson's and a trade branch Repco. Get in the chariot and a short drive we have a couple of Supercrap's, a large Repco retail and an Autobarn that was Carac in Dandenong since 1968....I was born in '65 so it has "always been there". Plus a few other outlets such as motorcycle stores, handy for Belray products, and an Amsoil outlet. I reckon if you can't find the automotive part/supplier/workshop etc in Dandenong then it really doesn't exist!
Best advice is check out the local stores and tell them that your car is NOT a FalcadoreCamShitsme and that because of this fact your not a complete moron and require a higher level of service from them. Once you've found a store that is actually On the Ball hang on to them, they are like Gold!
One store I go to for replacement parts is very trade based and busy, went there one freezing winter's day and the guy's working had not much happening so got to play their own choice of music. A positive comment was made on my behalf, it was Van Morrison so not hard at all, and a brief chat and 'Hey Presto!' I've become a favoured/trade customer.
:cheers: Brendan.
 
I am resurrecting this old thread for good reason - a friend (Felix) who owns a 307 wagon with the 1.6L HDi seems to have exactly the problems that 908HDI was warning about 7 years ago :eek:. This man is "tech savvy" - involved in the computer industry - and I assumed he had done his homework when he bought the car 2nd hand. Apparently not...

The car was brought to Tenterfield on a flatbed last week after Felix was confronted with the big red STOP light, and the "Low engine oil pressure" message. Seemed OK when started next morning, but message was back within 500 m. However he admits that before the STOP light came on, it had been significantly down on power while trying to climb up the range from Casino - which I assumed meant it was in "limp" mode - he says it was only usable between 1700 - 2500 rpm.

However he has since admitted that the power loss started a couple of days earlier, accompanied by "loud noises" :rolleyes:, but that he kept on driving. Car has only done about 130,000 km, but it has been established that incorrect oil has been used (not sure how many oil changes were "wrong").

Tenterfield mechanic has read codes with a generic reader (I haven't enquired as to whether he has done a "physical examination" as well as taking the history), which show turbo and EGR faults as well as low oil pressure. He says that the turbo is stuffed, the sump is full of sludge, and that the best option is a 2nd hand engine (hasn't provided quote yet).

Is he right? I have ridden in the car (while Felix was "doctor shopping" around Tenterfield) and the engine starts easily and sounds normal (but lacks power). Oil level is OK. Assuming the loud noises were the turbo self-destructing, and that the EGR and the oil pump strainer are blocked (the DPF is another unknown quantity), is it likely that replacing the turbo (& oil feed line?), replacing or cleaning the EGR, and removing the sump to clean the oil strainer etc. would resurrect this engine? Or is the damage likely to be much greater?

Cheers

Alec
 
I maintain a 307 1.6 HDI which they had been quoted so much to repair that the owners were ready to scrap it.

The turbo feed line had blocked resulting in a failed turbo.

I replaced the turbo core, turbo feed line and filter, stripped and cleaned the oil cooler (which was nearly blocked), removed the sump and cleaned the oil strainer (also nearly blocked), replaced the oil filter and oil with the correct synthetic low ash oil, and it has now done another 30,000 km without incident.

We have also reduced the service interval to 10,000 km, and as part of the service I remove the sump and clean the oil strainer each time.

The car now has 280,000km on it. The owners love the car, and it certainly feels like a much bigger engine than a 1.6 to drive. Impressive fuel consumption figures, too.
 
Thank you Scott - just the answer I was hoping for!

Any chance you could estimate what your approach would cost (at commercial rates), or else how many hours it took?

Cheers

Alec
 
So is there truth in the rumour that the 2 litre is a bit more robust (which I suppose is code for more tolerant of erratic servicing)?

I am asking about the 2 litre engines of the same age as the 1.6 - ie with DPF. I already know that the earlier 2 litre engines are pretty well bullet-proof, but they are a bit slow off the mark around town...

Cheers

Alec
 
Thank you Scott - just the answer I was hoping for!

Any chance you could estimate what your approach would cost (at commercial rates), or else how many hours it took?

Cheers

Alec


It wasn't really a big job. Turbo removal is about 30 minutes, another hour to remove, clean and refit the oil cooler, half an hour to swap the turbo core, half an hour to refit the turbo, half an hour to remove the sump and clean the oil pickup. Add an hour of tweaking to set the turbo up (VGT turbos are supposed to be set up on a flow bench, but without that technology handy I just do it by ear - I reckon it's 95% good).

So:

4-ish hours labour
Replacement turbo core is a cheap Chinese one - and it works great, fitted perfectly. It was less than $300.
Turbo oil line (they tend to leak at the rotating fittings on the ends) was I think $80ish?
Oil filter $20
Oil $70
Tube of sealant for the sump $17.
 
The 1.6 is a robust unit, but doesn't suffer neglect as well as the larger engines. A 20K oil change cycle may not be a problem with the right oil and mostly highway use. Otherwise, reduce the change interval to 15K or 10K, depending on usage. Get the latest dipstick too as it was recalibrated, well at least for the C4 installation. It has a fairly small sump, so perhaps don't run it on minimum.

You can be chasing lumps of carbon for a very long time in a badly fouled up engine. If it is extreme, the engine might be scrap because bearings will be scored and galleries blocked. You also want to have a look for little lumps of carbon in places like the oil cooler and the gauze for the vacuum pump oil feed. If you fail to remove the carbon and just change the turbo (or guts), it probably won't last long. The factory tells you to replace the sump and pickup along with all the turbo related parts.
 
Thanks David - an encouraging story.

Given that Scot paid somewhere near $300 for a turbo core, this looks incredibly cheap:
[FONT=&quot]http://tiny.cc/478qyy

Anyone able to advise? Are there brands to avoid?

Cheers

Alec



[/FONT]
 
Thanks David - an encouraging story.

Given that Scot paid somewhere near $300 for a turbo core, this looks incredibly cheap:
http://tiny.cc/478qyy

Anyone able to advise? Are there brands to avoid?

Cheers

Alec




Bargain!!
 
So the mechanic who is quoting on 2nd hand engine has also quoted on new injectors.

I am puzzled - my old 504 GLD needed injectors replaced fairly frequently, but I understood modern injectors lasted much longer. So has he done it because

a) there is a good reason to do it?
b) someone has stolen the injectors out of the only OK 2nd hand engine he could find?
c) he is extra scrupulous about making sure that nothing can possibly go wrong?
d) he and his supplier mates think this might be a chance to make extra cash?

It certainly can't be because he thinks injectors in current motor have been damaged (unless of course 2nd hand motor does come sans injectors).

Cheers

Alec

EDIT: At this stage I don't know anything about the proposed replacement motor. In any case, it's all academic - quote is far too pricey for Felix to consider.
 
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He may have read the French documents-
Remplacer impérativement les joints d’injecteurs
Contrôle visuel des injecteurs, s’il y a trace de suie, cela peut indiquer qu’un injecteur fuit.
- Résoudre le problème avant continuer.

Also- NOTICE SPECIFIQUE MOTEUR DV6 etc

Also- ATTENTION : Changer impérativement les joints d’injecteurs. Si fuite extérieure, l’on peut remarquer la présence de suie autour de l’injecteur. Le gasoil pénètre par la suite par le haut de la culasse dans l’huile moteur et se dilue dans celle-ci, diminuant très fortement le pouvoir lubrifiant de l’huile moteur

Admittedly the notices are about seals rather than injector function.
 
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