Gasket sealers for DS23 engine rebuild

KAndy

KAndy

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Which gasket sealer(s) to buy ?
Any recommendations?
I’m close to putting all the bits back together again (I do have a full gasket set) but would appreciate any views on what’s best to stick and seal it all with.
,thanks
Andy
7A7B0CF5-1D05-45C7-92C4-A061C981ED06.jpeg
 
Somehow I missed that thread in January.
Otherwise I would have contributed.

Loctite 515.

That's it!
Just a very thin smear, more is not better.

NEVER use silicone where oil galleries are located within 200m..... yes thats meters.
Excess silicone is extruded, and easily breaks off traveling along until it clogs vital galleries.
NEVER use silicone on an engine.

515 is anaerobic, does not ever set in the tube ( I have some that's been 20 years in a tube without a cap, still perfect).
When it does set in contact with metal, it forms a firm plastic, never deteriorating.

I don't believe that 515 caused any oil reaction ( mentioned in the previous thread)

For head gaskets, a very light spray with silver paint, allowed to dry.

Cooling system..... paper gaskets + 515
Inlet manifolds ..... flange gaskets + 515
Exhaust manifold.... flange gaskets dry
Exhaust joints...... grease
Gearbox..... paper gaskets + 515
O-Rings..... a few drops of the fluid that they are sealing.
Auto body joints and gaps..... polyurethane sealant like Sikaflex.
 
Buttercup said:
Somehow I missed that thread in January.
Otherwise I would have contributed.

Loctite 515.

That's it!
Just a very thin smear, more is not better.

NEVER use silicone where oil galleries are located within 200m..... yes thats meters.
Excess silicone is extruded, and easily breaks off traveling along until it clogs vital galleries.
NEVER use silicone on an engine.

515 is anaerobic, does not ever set in the tube ( I have some that's been 20 years in a tube without a cap, still perfect).
When it does set in contact with metal, it forms a firm plastic, never deteriorating.

I don't believe that 515 caused any oil reaction ( mentioned in the previous thread)

For head gaskets, a very light spray with silver paint, allowed to dry.

Cooling system..... paper gaskets + 515
Inlet manifolds ..... flange gaskets + 515
Exhaust manifold.... flange gaskets dry
Exhaust joints...... grease
Gearbox..... paper gaskets + 515
O-Rings..... a few drops of the fluid that they are sealing.
Auto body joints and gaps..... polyurethane sealant like Sikaflex.
Click to expand...

Yes , buuuuttttttt........ That thread is referring to a leaky old v8 with valley gasket rubbers. 515 is inadequate as it doesn't fill voids. You need to use a silicon sealant on the corners of the valley cover rubbers (infact, all the americans throw these rubbers away and use a thick bead of silicon in place of it .... as that guarantees no leaks!).

The 3bond mentioned there sounds like it has the properties of 515/anaerobic paste ... :confused: I think they say there somewhere it doesn't go off in a tube, so I'm assuming its an anaerobic sealant, but it has greater "void" filling ability

seeya,
Shane L.
 
DoubleChevron said:
Yes , buuuuttttttt........ That thread is referring to a leaky old v8 with valley gasket rubbers. 515 is inadequate as it doesn't fill voids. You need to use a silicon sealant on the corners of the valley cover rubbers (infact, all the americans throw these rubbers away and use a thick bead of silicon in place of it .... as that guarantees no leaks!).

The 3bond mentioned there sounds like it has the properties of 515/anaerobic paste ... :confused: I think they say there somewhere it doesn't go off in a tube, so I'm assuming its an anaerobic sealant, but it has greater "void" filling ability

seeya,
Shane L.
Click to expand...
Voids???
Any competent engine designer wouldn't have voids.
V8..... valley....?
Has the mythical TA V8 been found?
 
Buttercup said:
Voids???
Any competent engine designer wouldn't have voids.
V8..... valley....?
Has the mythical TA V8 been found?
Click to expand...

I've done a lot of eyeing off of said v8's .... and DS's.... its just to hard. you end up with all the accessory drive against the firewall.... and the engine spins the wrong way. It would be fun though. those old buick/rover v8s only weigh about 150kgs... and don't make much power. so would be perfect in the nose of a DS!
 
Although not strictly a gasket sealer, I discovered a nice tool for setting the flimsy paper gaskets onto the barrels is an old-school band-type ring compressor, like this one.

www.harborfreight.com

4 in. Piston Ring Compressor

Amazing deals on this 4In Piston Ring Compressor at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

Set the ring compressor diameter so it just slides over the outside of the barrel and use it as the mandrel to push the paper gasket onto the barrel. Personally, and contrary to the manuals, I use gasket sealer on the paper gaskets so I have never had a coolant leak at the base of the barrels....
 
citroenthusiast said:
Although not strictly a gasket sealer, I discovered a nice tool for setting the flimsy paper gaskets onto the barrels is an old-school band-type ring compressor, like this one.

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Set the ring compressor diameter so it just slides over the outside of the barrel and use it as the mandrel to push the paper gasket onto the barrel. Personally, and contrary to the manuals, I use gasket sealer on the paper gaskets so I have never had a coolant leak at the base of the barrels....
Click to expand...
John, are You putting gasket sealer on the barrel then pushing the gasket up, or on the seat?
 
When using 515 with paper gaskets, I put a very thin smear on both sides.
 
Gee's, how often are you guys pulling the liners from a motor! I don't think I've ever needed to pull a DS/CX liner :)
 
on a related topic - any suggestions here?
These are nuts holding down a rocker cover. Someone has added the fiber washers, but it looks like the oil is coming out between the nuts and the steel washers.

rockercovers.jpg


Cheers,
Andrew
 
robo said:
John, are You putting gasket sealer on the barrel then pushing the gasket up, or on the seat?
Click to expand...
My procedure is similar to Buttercup. I apply a thin smear to the metal land on the barrel, seat the paper gasket on the barrel then apply a little sealer on the land inside the block. Do this four times and bolt the head on without a gasket and let sit overnight.
 
andrewj said:
so ditch the fibre washer, degrease and a smear of 515 on each side of the steel washer? Do I need to give it time to cure before starting the engine?
Click to expand...
In metal to metal situations it cures adequately in about 10 minutes.
However in this situation, where the fluid pressure is very low, the viscosity of the 515 is enough.
It's only on high pressure sealing jobs (over 2 or 3 bar) that I ever wait for cure.
 
Thanks guys I’ll be doing my Traction motor soon so I’ll have to click & collect some of this wonder 515.
the guys that machined my crankshaft said on Fiat’s they use a high temp silicone.
 
Buttercup said:
In metal to metal situations it cures adequately in about 10 minutes.
However in this situation, where the fluid pressure is very low, the viscosity of the 515 is enough.
It's only on high pressure sealing jobs (over 2 or 3 bar) that I ever wait for cure.
Click to expand...
Hi Bob, Great advice - much appreciated!
 
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