ES9J4S Spark Plugs Replacement: Awesome effect on the Engine!

Thanks heaps for that.

where do you source peugeot parts ? I went to supercheap to get sparkplugs for it and the guy over there told me that they have to order plugs for your car and will be around 300
 
codename47 said:
Thanks heaps for that.

where do you source peugeot parts ? I went to supercheap to get sparkplugs for it and the guy over there told me that they have to order plugs for your car and will be around 300
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I was always amazed at the range of parts repco carried on the shelf suitable for my '84 renault.

Maybe give them a call.

Jo
 
codename47 said:
Thanks heaps for that.

where do you source peugeot parts ? I went to supercheap to get sparkplugs for it and the guy over there told me that they have to order plugs for your car and will be around 300
Click to expand...

I bought the spark plugs 5960 G0 for here in Abuja, Nigeria.

Ikenna, Lion King.
 
codename47 said:
Hi guys,

I am also looking to change spark Plugs on my v6 3.0 SV 407. I have recently bought it and every now and then it seems to miss sparks. I have got it serviced with 5w40 Fully synthetic engine oil.

Could you please advise the correct spark plugs for it ?
I didn't want to create a new thread considering the layout of both engines is similar.

NGK PLFR5A-11 is about 100+ for set of six from ebay(Uk seller)
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The PLFR5A-11 are the correct ones for your SV, they are the same as what I have in mine. From memory I bought mine in Sydney and paid about $17 each for them.
 
Thanks guys, much appreciated

I bought the Bosch 5960GO for 96.11 delivered from Uk.

thanks heaps again.

I had a problem before with rattling at cold start which has been fixed, the previous owner put some cheap oil and filter that was causing the issue. I changed the filter Ryco , and Fully synthetic 5w-40 oil, did old engine oil flush with Nulon engine flush. and it has been all good after that. (timing belt was changed 2 years ago)

Hope that helps
 
I have now got the spark plugs delivered.

I will be replacing the old ones soon.

As the above post mentioned, when I start my car currently it turn the fan on the engine and you can feel the missing spark.

Hope it solves the issue.

thanks again
 
Well, don't panic if it still misses after you replace the plugs.

Don't they have individual coil packs ? One of them would be the next thing to suspect.
 
Hi

All the comments about spark plugs being difficult to replace on modern engines are correct, I remember a few years ago told a friend me how he checked with his mechanic about spares to take in his four wheel drive on a trip deep into the heart of Australia and he was told don't bother about spark plugs because in the workshop they allow 8 hours to change them.

Regards
Neil
 
There was one that was replaced during RWC. I hope it solves.
how much are those coil packs and are they available cheap here?
 
TassieExec said:
Hi

All the comments about spark plugs being difficult to replace on modern engines are correct, I remember a few years ago told a friend me how he checked with his mechanic about spares to take in his four wheel drive on a trip deep into the heart of Australia and he was told don't bother about spark plugs because in the workshop they allow 8 hours to change them.

Regards
Neil
Click to expand...

Hi Neil,

I agree - my old farts' car - a Nissan Maxima 250-STL requires the intake manifold to be removed (to get to the firewall side three sparkies), and a new gasket is reqd also. Dealership wants $350 (including parts).

However, my Mother-in-Law's Citoen Xsara, it takes me only 20 mins, and The French Tart (207cc Sport) I can do in 20 mins also.
Check this out:

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/peugeot-forum/122381-importance-spark-plug-changes%85.html

Cheers...
 
I believe this is the same v6 as fitted to a c5 citroen ,i have swapped the rear coils on the side of the road .its not the manifold that has to be removed but the plenum that sits on top of it ,theres a bunch of securing bolts to be undone then u lift the front of the plastic plenum ,then slide to the left i thing ,slides on a couple of horizontal pins ,those coils can perform perfectly when cold but break down when hot ,so i installed 3 new ones at the rear ,then the 3 best for the front ,its not all that difficult when you have done it once ,pugs .ps check the rear rocker cover for leaks while you are in there ,as mentioned elsewhere it can be sealed with some quality sealer not silastic
 
pugwash said:
I believe this is the same v6 as fitted to a c5 citroen ,i have swapped the rear coils on the side of the road .its not the manifold that has to be removed but the plenum that sits on top of it ,theres a bunch of securing bolts to be undone then u lift the front of the plastic plenum ,then slide to the left i thing ,slides on a couple of horizontal pins ,those coils can perform perfectly when cold but break down when hot ,so i installed 3 new ones at the rear ,then the 3 best for the front ,its not all that difficult when you have done it once ,pugs .ps check the rear rocker cover for leaks while you are in there ,as mentioned elsewhere it can be sealed with some quality sealer not silastic
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thanks for the instructions. I am doing this tomorrow morning and also the transmission oil service part 2.

I have already got the sealer done on the rocker cover so that's a bit of less work!
 
changed spark plugs and car ran amazing. I was to goto mates house for some nice dinner and it started shuddering as if one of the coils is broken and the engine light came up.
now, how to diagnose which one has gone ?
 
If you are lucky its one of the front ones ,this might sound a bit tarzan but .disconect one coil start engine ,if it runs worse its not that one ,stop engine re connect that one , disconnect another ,start engine , runs the same ,thats the one ,mine was one of the rears ,i took it to my mechanic who plugged in his fault reading gismo and it told us which cylinder it was that was missing .from memory the numbering of the cylinders was a bit weird ,to be expected. ,as mentioned earlier ,common practice is to replace all the rears and and run older ones at the front were they are accessible ,if you cant afford a full set ,be aware that unplugging things then running the engine is going to generate a fault code in the computer which will have to be canceled at some time ,
 
pugwash said:
If you are lucky its one of the front ones ,this might sound a bit tarzan but .disconect one coil start engine ,if it runs worse its not that one ,stop engine re connect that one , disconnect another ,start engine , runs the same ,thats the one ,mine was one of the rears ,i took it to my mechanic who plugged in his fault reading gismo and it told us which cylinder it was that was missing .from memory the numbering of the cylinders was a bit weird ,to be expected. ,as mentioned earlier ,common practice is to replace all the rears and and run older ones at the front were they are accessible ,if you cant afford a full set ,be aware that unplugging things then running the engine is going to generate a fault code in the computer which will have to be canceled at some time ,
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thanks for that.

Actually I used the multimeter to diagnose
and also pulled out the outer rubber cover to check if everything was ok
There was one VALEO one and 5 delphi coil packs.

So I took the valeo one out at last (since it was changed recently thought it'd be ok)

Rubber cover when I pulled I saw the connection was broken. It uses an insulating material with connecters on either side connected using a thin connecting wire. and on top sits the spring to power the spark plug. Spoke to my father and he asked me to replace the insulating material with a nice thick wire and spring will sit on that conducting material preventing leak and it works now.

Now how to reset check engine light?
 
This thread is a bit old but interesting.
I have been running NGK Iridium sparklers as an alternative to the Platinums and they have been fine for the last 40000ks. I purchased 6 x LFR5AIX-11 plugs out of the USA for about $A6 each posted a few years ago. There should still be some online re-sellers which will do better than the Aussie rip-off merchants.
The plastic manifold cover is easy to remove for rear plug/coil access. The word in the world of auto servicing is all about making you think it is a huge job so you are less likely to flinch at the overcharging at the end. I have done it on the side of the road - just wait for things to cool a bit first. A flat screw driver and 10mm socket with extension is all you need for changing the coils.
Just take your time and make sure you don't drop anything down the inlet holes, and gasket is still in place when replacing. You don't have to disconnect all the air hose connections - just loosen the throttle body clamp and disconnect the air inlet rubber hose. It helps if you have someone to help hold the manifold cover out of the way or else an occy strap can help. Evenly torque (don't overtighten) the small bolts. Mine has been off about 4 or 5 times and doesn't leak. It is usually a back coil which lets go in my experience. Delphi coils are apparently the way to go. Try and have a full set. Valeo's have let me down.
Fault codes will disappear after a day or two.
 
Ikenna351 said:
Spark Plugs replacement: ES9J4S


Since I got my SV D9, I observed that she would idle roughly at cold start for some minutes. Sometimes, it would misfire. But would go away until the engine warm up. Well, since I wasn't getting any fault stored in the ECU suggesting an issue, I ignored it.

Last Sunday, I drove to Nyanya for a meeting with the SV. On my way back, some joined me to drop them off in town (3 passengers). From nowhere, the car lost all power while climbing the Kubo hill. She was just crawling, no matter how hard I depressed the throttle pedal. It was the first time I carried such number of persons in her. I was really disturbed. A V6, crawling like a 50 hp car! It was that serious.

Since there was no error code stored, I decided to change what I have been suspecting all these while I got the car: spark plugs. The engine came with Platinum spark plugs: Bosch FR85PP332. Also, two more were recommended by Peugeot: Bosch FGR8MQPE & 9657642680. The Peugeot part number is RP596060. But because of two many fake Bosch spark plugs in the market, I decided to buy NGK platinum that would match. So, yesterday, I eventually bought NGK LFR5AGP, stock # 5018. The 6 of them cost 12k. Yes, N12,000, about $75 USD (it was painful spending that amount on just spark plug. But since Peugeot recommend Platinum spark plugs for that engine, I had to stick to it.

I replaced the spark plugs later in the evening yesterday. Replacing spark plug on ES9J4S can be a pain. To get to the 3 spark plugs on bank 2 , the intake manifold need to come off. It took me 3 hours to get the intake manifold off and the spark plug replaced. But at least, I won't go there again for a very long time, since the Platinum spark plugs last 100,000 km, unlike the conventional or copper spark plugs that last only 20,000 km.

I started the engine and it rough idled and took longer crank to start. I then knew the ECU needed to re-learn and adapt to the new components installed. So, I took it for a drive, drove back after about 5 mins. I let the engine to idle, left the AC on and came out of the car. But I wasn't hearing the fan spinning. I checked, the fan was on speed 1, but the speed 2 would always come on anytime I switched the AC on (the noisy speed). I was worried. So I checked all the fuses, both on the BSM and fuse box under the steering wheel and they were all ok. I then pulled out the front grille and checked the 3 relays that control the fans. They were all ok. Yet the speed 2 wouldn't come on, only the speed 1 was on. I connected my PP2000 and checked the fans operation. The PP2000 showed there was no fault in the fans system. Then a thought crossed my mind. I switched off the engine, waited for 2 mins or so and started the car again. This time, the speed 2 came on, spinned for like a min and went off, leaving speed 1 on. I did that because when an engine goes off, the cooling system will go hotter since the fans cooling the engine will be off. It will take more mins before the coolant temperature will start going low. So, the test confirmed that the speed 2 was still intact.

What it means is that all these while, the engine was running hotter because of the failing spark plugs, which was why the speed 2 would come on as soon I switched on the AC. Because the engine would have to labour more to power the AC, since the spark plugs have failed, though not completely. But now, the idling is perfect and AC load is no longer an issue.

This morning, I was really amazed on how the car was moving smoothly. I never knew the engine was not running fine all those while. Now, the engine torque at low rpm is really amazing. Am yet to check the fuel consumption since last night. But if the car would average about 39 mpg with faulty spark plugs on expressway, I wonder what she would give now. I love French technology! Now I don't use throttle pedal to move the car from stationary. No matter how high a hill is, the car would just start moving as I gradually release my foot from the clutch pedal.

So, if your radiator fans switch to speed 2 whenever you switch on your AC, then something is wrong. If you are not too sure when the spark plugs were replaced by the previous owner before you bought her, it would make sense to replace them with quality spark plugs and not with wrong ones. The $75 USD spent was worth it. Will attach pictures taken while the job was going on
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Guys what is correct plug gap for ES9J4S engine? On-line info is confusing, but best I can find is .1mm.
 
Thanks COL. On recommendation I have NGK plugs for my engine, but remain unsure about correct gap, which on-line sources quote variously as .8, .9 and 1.1mm. Grateful for any clarification.
 
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