You guys really impress me. Please keep the posts coming.
Nice work Reidar.I know the OP is not a fan of 3D printing but I love the fact that you can use the same CAD drawings as a base for both prototypes and then for casting patterns and core boxes.
I’m currently working on an Opel OHV inlet manifold. An enthusiast modified an inlet from a late 1200 version by raising the roof to gain volume and changed the carburettor flange for one for a Weber 36DCD. I got challenged to try to recreate it to make some castings. I was supplied with an original inlet and the measurements from the modified one.
I printed this half model prototype yesterday and I think it is more or less done. The original inlet have some strange parting lines witch I guess might require that is called an «odd piece». I’m not yet sure if I will stick to theese parting lines or choose a curved one.
I also think I might turn to silicate bound or resin bound sand for this one…
Pattern,odd piece and core box is yet to printed.
Plasticine as a gauge is a nice tip. I have been thinking of using thin plastic in between the layers of sand instead of parting powder. Like they use inside the spring cake forms.Nice work Reidar.
Def try the epoxy bonded sand as that's one less thing to go wrong. Parting lines don't need to be straight, they can be whatever will give you a good result. If you use a bit of Plasticine as a gauge to determine you have the core sitting exactly where you need it when you do a trial close of the mould. A bit like a plastiguage used to determine bearing clearances.
For the record I have nothing against 3D printing per se, it's just a personal choice. I get bye just fine without a printer.
So you have actually advanced to iron? Aluminium is scary enough for me..I've nothing recent to add except I made some cast iron valve guide blanks just by pushing a suitable dowel down into a bucket of moulding sand and pour in the iron. BTW I used some Peugeot cylinder liners for the melt, just to keep a French theme.
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The 4CV engine WAS the Billancourt engine, and I think the early factory higher performance ones were called Ventoux, after the car's first competition victory at the Mont Ventoux Hillclimb (in 1949 if I recall, so before the 1063 cars were built). Heaven knows what is correct, but common usage is to call them all Ventoux engines now.Is that Billancourt the engine?
Series production to follow? That looks great.At NASA they say if you aren't failing you aren't learning. If that were true I would be a Rhodes scholar by now..
In the interest of making a cast naming plate for my shed in brass or bronze I first had a lash in aluminium to see where the pitfalls are, and I found them first go. The sprue and gates need to be a little larger to enable more rapid filling of the mould cavity because as you can see it didn't fill quite quick enough.
I damaged the plywood pattern so need to repair that and as I now have an almost finished casting I can weigh it to work out how many brass garden taps I need for a brass name plate. Stand by..
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Do you know more than you should????You could make a pair, buff the highlights and screw them to the side of an American sidevalve straiģht 8?
It was the style in the '20s/30s, and who'd know any different.
Au contrare my learnerd friend. Most of the big American side valve engines were made as a mirror reverse of the Renault side valves, i.e. the ports on an American side valve are on the right hand side while the Renault big side valve engines were on the left. A small thing yes but you'd fool no one.You could make a pair, buff the highlights and screw them to the side of an American sidevalve straiģht 8?
It was the style in the '20s/30s, and who'd know any different.