watering fruit trees

[DoubleChevron]

Has anyone figured out a way of setting up a drip/water system on trees, that doesn't get run over by the mower? I've tried burying that cheap pvc irrigation pipe from bunnings, the downfall is where the risers come out of the ground. I mow over them all the time. If it's the flail mower that picks them up, rather htan just cutting it, it wraps around the drum and pulls it up out of the ground.

I'm hoping to plant an area of fruit trees in the corner of the yard. I'm going to use a deep ripper around the area and run the irrigation tube all around ... then get out the post hole digger and dig holes beside the ripped area so the watering system is beside the trees (filling the holes with top soil ... the soil here is clay and granite... that is currently soft ... give it a few months and I'll need TNT to even make a dent in it).

how to setup the irrigation system so I don't just destory it with the mower again though ? When you think ground around the trees, think thick, knee high and full of weeds/soil. not perfectly groomed grass like you see in magazines.

 

[Russell Hall]

I have an idea of where you live. Our family had country in that area last century. If it's the country I think you'll have a clay soil. Instead of dip feeding another approach is to dig a trench around each tree and deep water them once a week. That will encourage deep root penetration. I used so much water to establish my fruit trees and now never water them. I've also given up on fruit with the parrots. Drippers can develop a surface root dependance. The old way was to fill the hole with manure and the like to encourage the roots down and feed the tree. Visit a shearing shed. Good tree planting year.

 

[Armidillo]

All good advice from Russell.

Obviously putting the pipes in deep trenches will protect them, but of course it makes it harder to find the leaks . As you would know, keep joiners to an absolute minimum, keep the pipe away from rocks (everything obviously expands and contracts with weather/season changes, and the pipes will rub through), and try not to run the pipe under an area of regular traffic, even when the pipe is quite deep, as the pressure still seems to stress the pipe and cause leaks.

Re. the point on deep watering - drippers are of course better than sprinklers, and must be OK when used properly, as commercial orchards use them.

Either you need to keep the grass under control close to the trunk with weedmat and mulch (and then you need edging or a trench to separate grass from mulch) or herbicide, or else devise a way of keeping the risers/drippers safe. While you've got the trench open, with the riser and dripper exposed, put a piece of downpipe (or other hard plastic pipe) drilled full of holes over the top and cut off the downpipe at the top of the trench (obviously you want the riser to finish below ground level), then backfill. You might want to wrap some old flyscreen or other mesh around the downpipe to keep the dirt out.

With this system it might be worth putting a dripper each side of the tree, but it should a) protect them, b) get the water to soak in properly, hopefully below the root level of the grass.

 

[Fordman]

The old way was to fill the hole with manure and the like to encourage the roots down and feed the tree. Visit a shearing shed. Good tree planting year.

This works.
These photos of our old farm taken in 1972 about 10 years after we left this farm. Looks pretty desolate, doesn't it - near Hyden in WA about 300 kms East of Perth. We grew wheat here in rainfall of about 10" (250mm) per year. Looks more deserted because the house was no longer occupied, it was being farmed by a neighbouring family using the land.

But look at that fig tree growing near my car parked there (middle photo). That mound it is on was the base (diggings) of a long drop dunny my Dad had built when we first went there and was used up until we left, although we had a decent toilet in the house which had been built while we were on that farm. Next to the tree you can see the dunny lying on its side! Obviously the current owners didn't like the outside dunny, or it blew over in a storm. Anyway, we laughed because we wondered who had eaten the fig years before, but could see that it was living in paradise, without much water.

 

[Greenpeace]

My father had a triangular shaped block that was on quite an incline. He planted dozens and dozens of fruit trees in ever shortening arcs up the hill. When they were small he put a ring of perforated pipe down several inches below ground level in a circle (30-40cm in diameter) around the tree. He ran a pipe up the trunk of the tree and attached a 2L soft drink bottle with a little aquarium valve (to adjust the flow in the hose) and then he used to hang them upside down in the trees. Depending on the time of year he used to refill them once or twice a week.
He only lost 1 or 2 trees.
Sounds like a bit of work filling them up, but then he was retired.
He used to mow the whole block and never had any problems with snagging the irrigation system
Once they were established he just pulled the pipework out.

 

[DoubleChevron]

I have an idea of where you live. Our family had country in that area last century. If it's the country I think you'll have a clay soil. Instead of dip feeding another approach is to dig a trench around each tree and deep water them once a week. That will encourage deep root penetration. I used so much water to establish my fruit trees and now never water them. I've also given up on fruit with the parrots. Drippers can develop a surface root dependance. The old way was to fill the hole with manure and the like to encourage the roots down and feed the tree. Visit a shearing shed. Good tree planting year.

That's about right. The entire area is just levelled mullock heap from the gold rush. its just clay and granite from down low. Infact I reckon the corner of our yard was probably beside one of those horse drawn rock crushes as there is a heap of very little fragments of granite there. if you 1cm under the surface.

 

[Russell Hall]

This works.
These photos of our old farm taken in 1972 about 10 years after we left this farm. Looks pretty desolate, doesn't it - near Hyden in WA about 300 kms East of Perth. We grew wheat here in rainfall of about 10" (250mm) per year. Looks more deserted because the house was no longer occupied, it was being farmed by a neighbouring family using the land.

But look at that fig tree growing near my car parked there (middle photo). That mound it is on was the base (diggings) of a long drop dunny my Dad had built when we first went there and was used up until we left, although we had a decent toilet in the house which had been built while we were on that farm. Next to the tree you can see the dunny lying on its side! Obviously the current owners didn't like the outside dunny, or it blew over in a storm. Anyway, we laughed because we wondered who had eaten the fig years before, but could see that it was living in paradise, without much water.

View attachment 209913View attachment 209914View attachment 209915

Tough country. Like the Mallee.

 

[Roger Wilkinson]

I have plenty of manure under my shearing shed. I will even help you dig it up.

You could investigate small pop-up sprinklers.

Roger

 

[DoubleChevron]

I have plenty of manure under my shearing shed. I will even help you dig it up.

You could investigate small pop-up sprinklers.

Roger

that sounds like fun, I haven't dug merde out from under a sheering shed since I was in scouts as a kid I'm surprised you haven't setup/built a scoop for one of the tractors that'll slide under and push it out/through.

I have thought of the pop up ones before (not inexpensive). another idea could be hamming a really cheap star picketd down into the ground and tie any dripper riser to that so I can't run it over .... (imagine 6months down the track, a rusty bent chinese star picket with 3 foot tall grass growing around it

 

[Bruce H]

Mulch, mulch, mulch is your answer.
My place had a small neglected orchard when I bought it just over 2 years ago. Some trees had died, many had dead wood, and the weeds were rampant. I discovered the previous owner had ridden over several risers with his ride-on, despite the fact they are all close to trunks, dug up and split the pipes in other places. I’ve dug up (easy, it is sand here), patched pipes and replaced risers, and am now spreading more and more mulch. Whilst your trees are establishing you may think you’ll need to mow near the trees, but really you’d be better spreading mulch well out from the trunks, consequently your drips won’t be in grass. As the trees grow, you really should be mulching out to their drip line anyway. Yes, where trees died I now have risers in grass, most with a star picket or timber stake next to them so I miss them when mowing.

 

[Russell Hall]

Yes mulch will give a healthy moist environment for the tree with worms and desirable bugs. I'm going to try some dagy wool as mulch and see how it goes.

 

[lowpugV2]

I guess it's worth knowing what kind of fruit trees you're planning on? I don't know, but I could ask my dad what is ideal.

The other thing to consider is water control. Certain fruits need different amounts at different times.

I like the simplicity of Russells deep water method

 

[Russell Hall]

The challenge is the first year when you get a string of hot days followed by a hot north wind and the leaves shrivel. Leaves fall but you get them through. Where do you get your water? Our trees were only small when the 82/83 drought hit and water was scarce but they survived.

 

[baldrick56]

Like you I'm trying to keep fruit trees (apples) alive in "challenging" conditions. Only six trees (saplings) so far but more in pots needing to be planted out soon. I have investigated the 'cocoon' tree water well, been used in arid conditions in Europe etc (obviously only works for new trees not yet planted):

https://www.growise.com.au/cocoon-plant-incubator

killer in my case is cost, the units are about $20 each but freight from WA I've been quoted "Freight to Bathurst $210.58 + GST" (for 25 of them, must weigh 5/8 of FA in total) - but they have a distributor in Vic apparently so you may be luckier if you want to investigate. For mine maybe I'll investigate how to make 'papier-mache' doughnuts

Happy Market Gardening, Rob

 

[shibuichi]

The citrus grove at my parents’ house was planted as follows:
(Heavy brown clay in suburban Melbourne, first planted 20 years ago.)

Hole dug at least three times the width and depth of the root ball.
Sheep/chook manure in bottom of hole, mixed and covered by a little backfill so the roots don’t get burnt.
A length of slotted 65mm diameter ag-pipe positioned vertically on two sides to the full depth of the hole and protruding well above surface, capped with an upended empty vitamin tub to keep the pipe clear. (I may have used the post hole auger to go deeper with the pipes.)
Insert tree and back fill followed by a good hose watering.
Mulch. A bit more mulch... then make sure the whole area is thoroughly mulched.

A couple times a week during establishment the vitamin tubs were lifted and hose inserted for deep watering. Now maybe a deep weekly water via the ag-pipes during dry weather.
Ongoing regular addition of more mulch.
Old bed sheet thrown over the top of the trees for protection from blistering summer sun and winter frosts as required.

No plant losses.
Lots of fruit.

 

[shibuichi]

Like you I'm trying to keep fruit trees (apples) alive in "challenging" conditions. Only six trees (saplings) so far but more in pots needing to be planted out soon. I have investigated the 'cocoon' tree water well, been used in arid conditions in Europe etc (obviously only works for new trees not yet planted):

https://www.growise.com.au/cocoon-plant-incubator

killer in my case is cost, the units are about $20 each but freight from WA I've been quoted "Freight to Bathurst $210.58 + GST" (for 25 of them, must weigh 5/8 of FA in total) - but they have a distributor in Vic apparently so you may be luckier if you want to investigate. For mine maybe I'll investigate how to make 'papier-mache' doughnuts

Happy Market Gardening, Rob

Actually, a retrofit may be possible for your saplings cheaper than the paper doughnuts.
My post hole digger is a little 100mm one like this (mostly used for planting tube stock):

Something similar should be under $100 at your local tool barn.
I think we salvaged the slotted ag-pipe from hard rubbish.
If the trees are very young you should be able to bore out holes at the perimeter of their current drip line to drop the pipes in without damaging the roots. It will give the trees something enticing to grow out towards. I’d put in at least three pipes around each tree to encourage even growth.
We went with two watering pipes in the grove as the trees are sort of blocked together.

 

[shibuichi]

Yes mulch will give a healthy moist environment for the tree with worms and desirable bugs. I'm going to try some dagy wool as mulch and see how it goes.

At some point moths got into one of the fleeces my mum had collected for spinning and that did go straight on the garden as mulch.

 

[Russell Hall]

There is an old mulberry on a selection we bought. Not very large but it's survived decades through droughts without attention. So I treat it with respect. Never a mulberry, the birds like them green.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Actually, a retrofit may be possible for your saplings cheaper than the paper doughnuts.
My post hole digger is a little 100mm one like this (mostly used for planting tube stock):

View attachment 209987
Something similar should be under $100 at your local tool barn.
I think we salvaged the slotted ag-pipe from hard rubbish.
If the trees are very young you should be able to bore out holes at the perimeter of their current drip line to drop the pipes in without damaging the roots. It will give the trees something enticing to grow out towards. I’d put in at least three pipes around each tree to encourage even growth.
We went with two watering pipes in the grove as the trees are sort of blocked together.

Oh ... when I say digging holes for the tree with a post hole digger .... I mean something liek this:

I would probably need a small excavator or backhoe to dig the ground unless I do it right now while its slop

 

[JohnW]

Has anyone figured out a way of setting up a drip/water system on trees, that doesn't get run over by the mower? I've tried burying that cheap pvc irrigation pipe from bunnings, the downfall is where the risers come out of the ground. I mow over them all the time. If it's the flail mower that picks them up, rather htan just cutting it, it wraps around the drum and pulls it up out of the ground.

I'm hoping to plant an area of fruit trees in the corner of the yard. I'm going to use a deep ripper around the area and run the irrigation tube all around ... then get out the post hole digger and dig holes beside the ripped area so the watering system is beside the trees (filling the holes with top soil ... the soil here is clay and granite... that is currently soft ... give it a few months and I'll need TNT to even make a dent in it).

how to setup the irrigation system so I don't just destory it with the mower again though ? When you think ground around the trees, think thick, knee high and full of weeds/soil. not perfectly groomed grass like you see in magazines.

Sheep.