Tool Talk

Heaven help us! Whitworth bolts from Slough? Live and learn....

Renault managed metric banjo bolts and securing bolts (10mm spanner) on the English spec. Lockheed drum brakes on 4CVs and Dauphines. The master cylinder and wheel cylinder IDs are all Imperial sizes like 13/16" and metric sizes just don't work. They have 7" and 9" drums respectively, expressed in exact mm sizes in the manuals. (Not relevant but amusing to note that a Dauphine had the same diameter drum brakes as an FJ Holden.)
This is a snippet out of a 1926 Rover 9/20 parts manual. Note the differential has a mix of metric and Imperial bearings in it. 🤦‍♂️

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I now only own Fordman's 3/8" twelve inch W&B, having disposed of the rest.

This one is accurate, and I can deal with high torque fixings with a nifty American flat extension bar, which has a 1/2" square hole exactly one foot from the centre of the drive. It multiplies the W&B by two.

The extension bar ratchet drives can be popped out, and I have two for it, a 3/4" for the really big sockets, and a 1/2" for the rest. The torque wrench by itself can do smaller fixings.

Being about 60 years old the torque wrench is marked in ft.lbs. It is still kept in the waxed paper in the box it came in. Those things were quality. You can still get one.
I did buy a new one a few years ago to handle hub nut torques. Like my original late-1960s one, it is W&B and kept in its original box. Waxed paper I don't remember. Quality items, that is for sure. They are never used out of my sight and out of my hands....
 
I did buy a new one a few years ago to handle hub nut torques. Like my original late-1960s one, it is W&B and kept in its original box. Waxed paper I don't remember. Quality items, that is for sure. They are never used out of my sight and out of my hands....
The reason I have gone to the other type, not the W&B, is:
a) for LH threads, where the square drive is pushed through so torque is reversed but wrench still operating in same direction, and:
b) the ratchet really makes it easier than trying to get the "angle of the dangle" correct with a single-hex socket.
But I do like the old W&Bs also.
 
With LH threads I can use the ratchet bar above which usually clears the work, and attach the Warren and Brown upside down.
 
Well I spotted some scrap metal masquerading as a hoist for sale on facebook marketplace yesterday, so I did the right thing and agreed to buy it site unseen and jumped into the car I went and grabbed it.

Now I just need to work out what this is and chase up the manuals for it. The post standing up has a ram that pushes up vertically out of the top of the post to pull the cables/raise the platform. The owner said he did figure out how to assemble it and kept it all this time as he wanted to installed it next to his other hoist. You can lift a car up on it, lock it in, and lower the ramps away so the car is suspended with the weight off the suspension. He said it took him about a day to figure out how it goes together. The reason he pulled it out was it was converted from 3phase to 240volt, but whoever converted it didn't do a good job. It shattered the pump housing and trashed it as the 240motor wasn't in line and working mounted properly to the flange.

I'm thinking I should be able to buy the cheap hoist power packs on fleabay these days and convert it over to one of them. I'll just need to work out how to get to

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Shane, is this something you are actually thinking about standing under? 😳😳😳
it looks very well made and sturdy with locking ratchets on each post. He was going to fit a new pump and use it as a parking hoist as he like the way it locked up high so safely. I'm positive I've seen a youtube video ... or similar where this hoist that allows the ramps to be lowered independently of the car is shown. I can't make sense of it until I remove it from the trailer and try to assemble it. The build plate looks like it has fallen off. So I can't figure out the manufacturer. It has H488 stenciled on it under the paint, but that is probably the hoist number local reference for servicing.

He said he has another set of cables there for it too, but he can't find them. He'll bring them up when they turn up.
 
Hey Shane,

That forklift should be at my place, not yours.

Roger
well it wasn't moved last summer, so he'll have to wait until this summer now. It'll probably need to be sold. They are worth really good money at the moment. I wouldn't be suprised if it he got upto $5k for it.

it probably weighs 4.5tons, so I have no idea how it can be moved safely short of hiring a trucking company to move it.
 
Look how cheap you can buy the hydraulic power packs for these days.


So I'd need to figure out how to hook to the high pressure side of the ram, then just use the existing reseviour might be easiest. I'll see.

It used a cost a huge amount of $$$ to convert 3phase equipement to single phase. especially when you needed to match the flange mounts, shaft sizes etc.
 
i've worked out what the scrap metal I've purchased is .... That took something searching of the internet. The previous owner never worked it out and said he thinks its german.

this is the exact thing here looking at the power post.


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This is how it works.

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just as the seller described, the ramps drop away allowing the car to be suspended. I honestly don't know if that will be much use, I'll see I guess. Another project that I'll waste lots of time and money on no doubt :)
 
I finally managed to unload the trailer ..... good grief this thing is HEAVY. It made almost entirely if "I" beams. Even the ramps aren't folded metal plate as I expected. They are I beams with a plate of metal laying over the top of them.

I think i've worked out how works. I couldn't understand how the crossbeams locked inside the pillars... You know, I don't think they actually do. The pillars must be bolted down (unlike the modern chinese lifts) so they can't topple, and the ramps are suspended within them.

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So we have a "power pole". I can't see how it comes apart. I'd love to pull it apart and check everything in it. Its just a big hydraulic cylinder attached to one of the cross beams.

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I thought the ram might be full of water and ready for the tip.... but I can see how it works now. i think.... inside the hydraulic tank there is this hose.... when you think about it, all I need is the one pressure line to the ram. I was thinking about trying to hook up a citroen or tractor hydraulic pump to it .... but its going to be to fiddly as the valving isn't there to release the pressure. I think I'll need to unbolt/cut away that big metal hydraulic tanks so I can see if I have access to where that hose connects to the ram. The ram can't have water in it as that hose points down ... and is above a heap of holes in the hydraulic tanks.

All I need to do is connect that cut off hose to something like this and it should just work.


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These are what the ramps cover sheets lay across. heavy "I" beams

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The "wheels free" frames are heavy "I" beams.

So how it seems to work is the cables lift the ramps ...

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as the ram goes vertically from the power pillar ... see the long paint scratch. That a ratchet. The cylinder must mechanically lock in as it rises.... Which leaves the ramps suspended by the cables.

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To "catch" itif a cable breaks, see the metal rods, this bracket here will lock into them. If you broke a cable I imagine they would be almost impossible to release without fitting a new cable to release the tension on them.

The wheels free frame locks into the big cuttouts on the sides of the pillars

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those slots there, so it is mechanically locked in when in use, and not reliant on the cables like the ramps. I can't see how this hoist would ever wear out ... or get damaged. No unless you can figure out a way of damaging "I" beams ?
 

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I figured out why the last guy probably didn't fix this. How do you get to the ram to replace the line?? the power pole has to come apart. I thought maybe it comes apart at the top ... but without cutting up the post you can't do this... hmmm... So I scrutinised and cleaned the bottom. It appears the hydraulic unit could be seperate and the post lifts away .... It looks like at some stage in its life its pulled the two dynabolts that holds the two parts of the post together ... so someone welded it into one, then added extra tiedown plates for the post.



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There was two long beads of weld there that were nowhere near as professional as everything else, so I ran a 1mm cutting disc through them and chisseled them apart.

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which allowed the post to move up ... finally I can cut the safety wires are remove the extremely heavy cross beam out of the way.

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I'm left with a base plate, the tank and the hydraulic cylinder.

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the post lifts away with some messing around (its all so heavy).

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So I'll need to make a hose to go from here to that cheap ebay pump system. I'll cut that huge tank out of the way. its interesting the hose has no clamps or anything. I would have thought they would run heaps of pressure (1000+ psi) .... maybe its low pressure, high volume.
 
Hi Shane

If you like I can do some calculations for you to predict the PSI needed to overcome the load.

Can you please advise:
The rated maximum load of the hoist if it has a rating plate
The OD of the cylinder rod
The OD of the cylinder
The length of the cylinder

Cheers.
 
Hi Shane

If you like I can do some calculations for you to predict the PSI needed to overcome the load.

Can you please advise:
The rated maximum load of the hoist if it has a rating plate
The OD of the cylinder rod
The OD of the cylinder
The length of the cylinder

Cheers.

You know, I have no idea what the cylinder diameter would be. the length is probably 6foot. the OD of the cylinder I could measure. But if its designed to carry sideways loads, it maybe be very thick walled. The hoist is either 3 or 4 ton rated. you can see where the build plate used to be (useful). Then again if the build plate was there, I wouldn't own it as the last owner would have found out how to fix it :clown:

I found a really detailed manual for it online now I know what to look for.


its for a later model with mechanical locks on the posts rather than the one lock on the cylinder (so your not relying on the cables in normal use).

I'm just tinkering with it for now. I'll free everything and dismantle all the pulleys and grease there bearings.... maybe even scrape all the old flaking paint off and give it a splash of paint. my shed is to low for it to be hugely useful at the moment. But I should get a higher bit of shed thrown up in the next 12months. I probably payed less the the scrap metal value of the hoist, so I'm not concerned. there isn't any great urgency or drama to get it fixed :)
 
my shed is to low for it to be hugely useful at the moment. But I should get a higher bit of shed thrown up in the next 12months.
My wife said I couldn't have any more cars cos we didn't have any more room for them.😔

My shed only has 8 foot walls but two 4 post hoists and two Minis later I proved her wrong. Mwaahahahaaaaa!😈

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That's funny, I just want a hoist to make working on cars easier (rather than fitting more cars in :clown: I have plenty of cars here, what I need is cars that work .... rather than more "projects" :rolleyes: Hopefully I'll get the shed extended and built over the next 12months. it will have 3.8 meter wall height .... so about 5meters in the gable.
 
My wife said I couldn't have any more cars cos we didn't have any more room for them.😔

My shed only has 8 foot walls but two 4 post hoists and two Minis later I proved her wrong. Mwaahahahaaaaa!😈

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I like your 60s collection, but I find the relative positioning questionable when oil leaks are taken into consideration. 😀😀😀
 
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