BRISBANE. Bougth a 207 GTi lemon.

A

Andy's first frenchie

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Fellow Frogger
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Good evening buoys and gulls.
In a nutshell, the car feels like its 1L naturally aspirated. Revs slow, has virtually no torque below 2,200RPM, and hillstarts in inclines cause anxiety. I have to rev to 3,000RPM semi dump the clutch and floor it. Not kidding.

Starts fine, idles smoothly, no untoward noises or smells, no CEL codes.

I apologise if I have posted this in the incorrect section, but I implore someone/people's help in diagnosing, and possibly fix.

Yes, I've spent a couple hours searching the net/YouTube and realise it can dozens of things. I've only done a simple check of engine pipes/hoses/wires and nothing is loose. Going to remove spark plugs tonight. Only had it for <36hours.

I live on Brisbane southside (Stretton) and willing to travel about 40km.

Thank you all in advance.

Andy.
 
That's engine code 5FY, aka as the EP6DTS and it should go like the clappers with torque fairly flat from 1400 on.

To get a diagnosis you will need the OBD2 error codes. Have you checked the turbo operation?
 
Have moved your thread to the Pug forum.
Was it bought like this or did it fail shortly after you drove it away??? Plugs do not suddenly all stop working properly, so your issue is more likely elsewhere. Get someone to read the fault log as it will help you identify the main problem, but you might start with 1) fuel quality should be >=95, 2) look for a split in the turbo air hose and 3) check the vacuum piping is all connected and can hold a vacuum (use a test hand pump if possible), including a reservoir down the front of the engine and that the turbo wastegate pivot is not stuck.
What happens when you remove the oil filler cap when idling?
 
seasink said:
That's engine code 5FY, aka as the EP6DTS and it should go like the clappers with torque fairly flat from 1400 on.

To get a diagnosis you will need the OBD2 error codes. Have you checked the turbo operation?
Click to expand...
Yup. The early max torque was the biggest draw, but its honestly like a VERY small capacity engine without forced induction. I'll upload a YouTube clip and post a link.
Theres literally no difference with the slow revving if I was half or full throttle.

I'm fairly mechanically knowledgeable, short of being a mechanic, so fart the the "easy" checks I've done is wastegate actuator vacuum line (seems ok and not pinched) all clamps on intake pre/post turbo tight, all sensor plugged in, no cracks in any pneumatic lines.

I disconnected the battery last night for just under an hour and it helps marginally. Yesterday it was revving very very slowly, today it revs slowly 🥴. Battery disconnected again tonight and leaving it off for a few hours in hopes it makes it a bit better.

I have a few OBDII readers, no codes, haven't plugged it in and checked live data as yet. I'll do so tomorrow.

Again, without hyperbole, if the road is level, its sort of ok. Any half decent incline, I'm having to use a lower hear than what I should to keep it near 3,000RPM.

It's shit. I've booked it into French Car Care for 21st which unfortunately is the earliest they can do. Going to try contacting Brisbane Euro Specialists tomorrow.

Any other places your guys recommend? Prefer southside.
 
David S said:
Have moved your thread to the Pug forum.
Was it bought like this or did it fail shortly after you drove it away??? Plugs do not suddenly all stop working properly, so your issue is more likely elsewhere. Get someone to read the fault log as it will help you identify the main problem, but you might start with 1) fuel quality should be >=95, 2) look for a split in the turbo air hose and 3) check the vacuum piping is all connected and can hold a vacuum (use a test hand pump if possible), including a reservoir down the front of the engine and that the turbo wastegate pivot is not stuck.
What happens when you remove the oil filler cap when idling?
Click to expand...
Had 12L of unknown in the tank and filled it full with 98RON yesterday arvo. No discernible change.
No splits or cracks i can see/feel/hear.
No fault codes.

When I test drove the car it was sluggish. Never felt like a turbo 1.6L. Didn't even feel like an NA1.8L.
It will pull OK in 1st up to 50km/h then felt like I hit a puddle of mud. Replicated it several times.

The current state occurred when i Tried to do an aggressive start (handbrake on, 4,000RPM, dump clutch) the car virtually bogged.... and voila... here we are.
 
Check the plugs are correct as only last 30km and they need to be as per spec iridium. Same as Mini Cooper
14mm long socket required.
Check if you can open the oil filler, if too much vacuum the pcv has gone and new cam box/ valve cover needs to be fitted. Easy job.
No codes I'm surprised 😳
 
Andy's first frenchie said:
Yup. The early max torque was the biggest draw, but its honestly like a VERY small capacity engine without forced induction. I'll upload a YouTube clip and post a link.
Theres literally no difference with the slow revving if I was half or full throttle.

I'm fairly mechanically knowledgeable, short of being a mechanic, so fart the the "easy" checks I've done is wastegate actuator vacuum line (seems ok and not pinched) all clamps on intake pre/post turbo tight, all sensor plugged in, no cracks in any pneumatic lines.

I disconnected the battery last night for just under an hour and it helps marginally. Yesterday it was revving very very slowly, today it revs slowly 🥴. Battery disconnected again tonight and leaving it off for a few hours in hopes it makes it a bit better.

I have a few OBDII readers, no codes, haven't plugged it in and checked live data as yet. I'll do so tomorrow.

Again, without hyperbole, if the road is level, its sort of ok. Any half decent incline, I'm having to use a lower hear than what I should to keep it near 3,000RPM.

It's shit. I've booked it into French Car Care for 21st which unfortunately is the earliest they can do. Going to try contacting Brisbane Euro Specialists tomorrow.

Any other places your guys recommend? Prefer southside.
Click to expand...
I can JUST touch the wastegate actuator rod but can't get any purchase on it to pull. I can only jiggle it.
N5GTi6 said:
How many KM's on it ?

Carbon on the inlet valves.

Cheers

Justin
Click to expand...
Probably. 178k. I have Lucas GDI valve cleaner, and I tried disconnecting the intake post MAF in order to sneak the spray tube in, but it was harder than expected and I didn't want to break anything as I need it to get to work. Will try slowly and gently on the weekend.
 
Either unscrew MAF rear left and spray down there ot pre turbo through the vacuum hose next to battery.

This spray won't do much if intake is clogged. That's a full day job to remove intake manifold and clean each inlet with mirrors and brushes.
 
dimistyle said:
Check the plugs are correct as only last 30km and they need to be as per spec iridium. Same as Mini Cooper
14mm long socket required.
Check if you can open the oil filler, if too much vacuum the pcv has gone and new cam box/ valve cover needs to be fitted. Easy job.
No codes I'm surprised 😳
Click to expand...
Yup. Spark plugs will be checked tomorrow arvo or weekend. I have necessary tools and spark plug socket (unless it requires some proprietary socket?). I have some spare, new plugs, hopefully they will be compatible, otherwise I'll clean them as best I can and get proper ones.

The car surges very slightly in 1st and 2nd until it gets around 50km/h. Not all the time, but most.

I'll do the oil filler test as per yours and Seasink's suggestion tomorrow morning when warming it up.

After hours of internet/YouTube search, oftentimes no codes show up. The centre display doesn't work btw.

Thank you all for the replies... please keep them coming, and I'll update how things are going.

The rest of the car is in 👌 shape btw.
 
dimistyle said:
Either unscrew MAF rear left and spray down there ot pre turbo through the vacuum hose next to battery.

This spray won't do much if intake is clogged. That's a full day job to remove intake manifold and clean each inlet with mirrors and brushes.
Click to expand...
Not gonna spray pre turbo because it stands a good chance of damaging the MAF. will try worming it into the Junction right at the MAF
 
I am from Sydney, without Brisbane experience, but our Brisbane AF members usually recommend Euroserve at Newstead. Use the search box to see some of the comments.

I am also surprised by no codes. Oil ash clag on the inlet valves is common, and certainly detracts from performance, but usually has misfires going on - the air fuel ratio is altered. It gives no code. All direct injection engines, all makes, get this problem, but it can be reduced by using low ash oils, such as are used by the HDI diesels, C2 grade. The factory now suggests this. At that mileage the valves should have been cleaned, more than once.

The spots to inject valve cleaner are the breather hose at the back of the cover or the air pressure sensor on the intake pipe.. It isn't as good as the Youtubes claim. Scraping or blasting is needed.
 
Andy's first frenchie said:
I can JUST touch the wastegate actuator rod but can't get any purchase on it to pull. I can only jiggle it.

Probably. 178k. I have Lucas GDI valve cleaner, and I tried disconnecting the intake post MAF in order to sneak the spray tube in, but it was harder than expected and I didn't want to break anything as I need it to get to work. Will try slowly and gently on the weekend.
Click to expand...
Yep - with those K's on it and no codes I'm betting carbon on the inlet valves. That many K's with no previous evidence of preventative action will require the inlet manifold off. The spray (Subaru SA459 is a good one as well) probably won't do much at this distance.

Cheers

Justin
 
seasink said:
I am from Sydney, without Brisbane experience, but our Brisbane AF members usually recommend Euroserve at Newstead. Use the search box to see some of the comments.

I am also surprised by no codes. Oil ash clag on the inlet valves is common, and certainly detracts from performance, but usually has misfires going on - the air fuel ratio is altered. It gives no code. All direct injection engines, all makes get this problem, but it can be reduced by using low ash oils, such as are used by the HDI diesels, C2 grade. The factory now suggests this. At that mileage the valves should have been cleaned, more than once.

The spots to inject valve cleaner are the breather hose or air pressure sensor on the intake pipe.. It isn't as good as the Youtubes claim. Scraping or blasting is needed.
Click to expand...
Thanks I'll contact Euroserve tomorrow too.
Yeh know "tune up in a can" won't do much, but it MAY do something. I know carbon build up reduces powr but im talking about LOTS of power loss. The absence of torque is pronounced. As I first stated, I can't describe it any simpler than driving a 1L NA engine in a very heavy car.

Well... at least when it's sorted... it'll be like I bought a whole new car again right? 😔
 
Carbon buildup may well explain the slug response, but not necessarily why so much power was lost suddenly after a hard start. I'd be thinking you have broken or dislodged something. A hand vac pump on the vac lines from the pump on the end of the head will be more reliable than a visual check and at 178K it's a fair bet there is a portion that is brittle somewhere.
You may want an assistant to try to keep the engine running as you feed that cleaner spray in as it might make it nearly stall.
 
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